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A Pair of 10W6's and no loss of hatch area

13K views 37 replies 9 participants last post by  Ben_B 
#1 ·
One thing I love about my car is the storage space available. For a tiny car it has decent room. I also enjoy a nice stereo, but won't give up any my precious space.

I decided to go with a pair of JL 10W6v2's. They almost 7 inches deep, so they're a little tricky to stuff anywhere. Using fiberglass I can get the most out of the space available.

I cut part of the plastic trim panel away so I could utilize the room behind it. Here's a picture all taped up so you can get and idea of the space.

Here it is with the aluminum put into place prior to the first layer of glass.



Here are 2 pictures to show the the initial shell. I know it looks like hell now, but after additional layers and trimming it it will be a lot prettier.
Here's the side:

Here's the front:



Here it is with the flush mount MDF ring in place. I had to test fit the sub and test it in the car a few times to get the ring in a spot where it wouldn't interfere with the cargo bin. After it is in place I used a thick glob of resin mixed with fibers to lock it in place.


Here it is with the initial wrap of fiberglass on the front


I trimmed it up and test fit the sub.


Here it is in the car:


I'm happy with the position of the sub, but the box sticks out about 1/8" further than I wanted. I'll remedy that later.


Next it's coated with a bondo & fiberglass mix and sanded and primered and the cycle is repeated until the shape is nice and smooth.
Bondo:


Primered:


Here it is after the final sanding and painting. I'll mount the subs sometime next month. I still don't have my amp, so it's no rush.

Here is the passenger side. I got lucky and the hatch floor mat can fit under it.


Here is the drivers side. I had to relocate the light for the hatch, but I was stupid and didn't check to see it it would be blocked. I could still change it, but likely won't. Also I made it w/o the hatch mat in, and it won't fit on this side. I can get the mat hemmed for cheap, or buy a Nissan one that fits perfect.


Here are both in the trunk. The tape is still on them and the car is still apart, but it will be back to new this week.



Overall I'm happy with how they look and fit. Hopefully the sound will be good too. They are .60-62 ft^3 each and I'll stuff them with poly fill. JL suggests a box of .693 ft^3 and said within 10% is good, so with the poly I should be good.

I'll update this thread as my work continues. I've touched up the paint and will add pictures soon with the subs mounted.
 
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#2 ·
Been lovin this project.
Keep up the good work.
I'm inspired!
 
#4 ·
Thanks for the kind words.

I'll have 4 fiberglass boxes for 8" subs that tuck in those spaces for sale in November. They will require the use of a cargo bin, but no panels will need to be cut. After that I won't do any glass work for a while. It was a lot more work than I expected, but I am extremely happy with the boxes for my 10's.
 
#8 ·
I had a few PM's about making these. I'd be happy to help, but don't think I'd be willing to make them for others. The biggest issue is it isn't as simple as dropping the box in once it's made. The plastic panel must be cut and there is a thin piece of metal that must be trimmed. The metal has no structural value, it's just there to allow the plastic piece to be fastened down.

Here's a better view with the subs out. I tried to draw a red line along the part where metal has been trimmed.




I'll make a separate post showing step by step for the other boxes I made. They hold 8's, but you won't need to cut anything. Not quite the thunder of big subs, but should get the low end to help most people out.
 
#12 ·
The amps are going to be installed later this month. The newer Class D amps can fit nicely under the seats. They measure in at 8"x10" for a few brands, but I'm going with the 2nd generation Alpine PDX. I mounted MDF under the carpet and ran all the wires while the interior was out. My main power wire runs down the center console in a fused distribution block and then 4 gauge wires run to each amp. I'm still getting the console situated, as I chose to mount the fuse block in the armrest it's been a little difficult to get two 1/0 gauge wires and four 4 gauge wires to nicely route up into it. Oh, I'm using one of those aftermarket ebay armrests from Hong Kong too. The system should be as stealth as possible and the car should look mostly stock when I'm done.
 
#15 ·
oh yeah..600W to each sub is plenty of power =)

and I agree, I would keep the spare just in case.
I would love to pull the trigger and get me a good system set up, but I have a 2 year old boy so...I need the trunk space.... to put stroller......................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... but I did have a system before! the 1998 z24 I took to the 1/8 mile track to do time trails had a system installed, got it from best buy, late 90s early 2000 best buy and circuit city was the best place to get the best boom for your car.
2 12" 400W pionner each and a 800W amp and a nice box in the trunk and I pulled the rear seat down so you could see the amp and let some air in and out of the trunk, kenwood head unit, it had a nice deep bass, and the back seat gave you a little massage on your back but a friend had 2 12" JLs and they were louder than mine
 
#16 · (Edited)
Time for some armrest pictures.

This proved to also be a giant PITA. A smaller fuse block with thinner power cables would have made it easier. The 1/0 gauge doesn't like to make sharp 90 degree turns. tomorrow I'll route the cables through the car (it's the easy part).

Here's the armrest and console laying on it's side. You can see all the power cables running up into it. I bundled the positive & ground 4 ga in one piece of split loom for easier routing.


And here it is assembled a little more.


It's a Stinger fused distribution block with voltage and amperage display. I like these, although they are a bit big a tacky.

I'll build a cover later and make a place for the Alpine bass boost knob to mount. This will allow me to continue keeping everything out of sight.
 
#17 ·
I had run a fairly rigid piece of corrugated plastic tubing through the console routed to the firewall grommet. This allowed the 1/0 gauge cable to be easily routed and keeps it protected from damage. It's also why I could connect up the wiring in my house and easily route it in my car.

Here it is mounted in the car. The center console comes apart very easily, only 2 screws and 2 nuts.


And here's how it looks with the seats back in.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Time for amplifiers....

So my new toys arrived on Thursday. The amps look really sharp in person, very clean and not flashy. I love the tiny footprint, as I'm trying to keep everything stealth. Also I really like the plug type connections.

Here they are boxed up.


The dollar is there to give an idea of size. I put the plugs in so you can see the room they need.


I have a pair of MB Quart QSC-216's in the front doors with the tweeter in the A pillar and in the rear doors another pair of MB Quart components mounted co-axially. They should scream with 150w per channel.

The birth certificates show 164wX4 for the F6 and 1380wX1 for the M12. 2000 watts in a little Nissan Versa should be good enough.

Here are a few pictures...

I mounted a panel under the carpet so I could bolt the amplifier securely to the floor.


After the amps are bolted in the seats are bolted over them.

Here's a little closer picture. You can see the power/ground coming from the center console. Due to the thickness I couldn't run it under the carpet, but luckily there's a space on the seat it can be routed through.


There's an amp under the seat, but nothing can be seen:


If you stoop down really low you can barely see the amp:



I played with these a bit today. I kept the volume at 65% for about 2 hours (I was not in the car) and the F6 hardly got warm. I rarely see it pull more than 6 amps, which is good since I have the stock alternator.

The M12 is hammering my 10W6's. The peak current I've seen was 91 amps, but most of the time it stays under 20. Today I connected up the remote bass boost knob and learned something new. It's not just a boost. In the middle position it's +0db. It was a huge surprise when I plugged it in and the subs suddenly were quiet since the knob was on minimum.
 
#19 ·
Man what a clean install.
you do great work, and I have a bit of experience in this area. It is old experience but still valid.
all solid component choices, and yeah the install is awesome.
please keep us updated. do you by chance work in a install shop? It is rare to see a freelancer of your talent, which is why I ask.
 
#21 ·
I played around in the mid 90's like you (but I was in highschool) Funny thing is a ran the same amps from 1995-2010 (Phoenix Gold M100, M50 and M44) and sold them when I got the Versa. I've never worked in a shop and do most of my work outside in a parking lot by my workplace.

The pillars that separate the front door and rear door have just enough clearance to fit the big MBQ crossover behind them for the rear doors. But, to do it it takes a lot of finessing and there's a thin plastic rib that's about 1/16" tall that needs to be ground off. Unfortunately I didn't have my camera with me the day I installed them, and my iPhone pics turned out crappy. But here's one anyway:



As far as the front speakers I was able to fit the drivers side one under the lower portion of the dash. There's a lot of space if you feel up in there and double sided tape is magic there. The passenger side footwell at the very front is literally just tall enough to stuff the other one. While it can't be seen, at night if the tweeter is over driven you can see the light from the bulb in the crossover, so that's kind of convenient. On the other hand it doesn't usually glow until about 75% volume, and I'm more concerned about pain than the tweeters at that point.

I also opted for the remote bass knob. A lot of people don't like them, but I like to be able to adjust the bass for different types of music. Using the EQ in the deck is too much of a PITA. The knob is in the compartment above the deck. I only use that for sunglasses, and they still fit in it so I'm happy with the location.

I honestly was concerned about several parts of this install. I was told the 10's wouldn't fit where I wanted them, but I tried anyway. Part way through I thought I was wrong and they truly wouldn't fit. I was also told the crossovers wouldn't fit behind those pillars, but I tried and nearly gave up. The first one took about 30 minutes of finessing, the second fell into place in less than 5 minutes.
 
#22 ·
Install

Well that is a top notch install, very clever spots.
And all solid components.
I am torn between installing stuff myself or having a shop do it.
I have not made up my mind yet.
Did you purchase your components. i.e amps speakers wiring. at a shop? or buy it online?

I may wait until spring and just to the install myself.
I know I can do all of it Since I used to do a lot of them 15 years ago.
which MB quart Set did you get for the front?

Keep up the good work.
 
#24 ·
I'm a complete online shopper. Local shops couldn't get near these prices.
$320 Refurbished Eclipse AVN-6200
$865 New Alpine PDX-M12 and PDX F-6
$350 New MBQ QSC-216
$120 New MBQ PSD-216

My wiring I bought from Bag Boy on Ebay, pretty reasonable prices and all Stinger. Cheap shipping and since he has everything you don't need multiple orders from different shops.

I did have a local shop do my alarm, and I bought a few other small items from them. I also gave them the harnesses for my Eclipse head unit and the aftermarket adapter and they wired it up for me for $15. Installing a new deck takes no more than 10 minutes once that wiring is done. Also by chumming it up and spending a little there they were more willing to answer questions I had. I also don't like to hand my car over, or get it back and see they did something I don't like. I asked what they'd want to build a paid of boxes like mine, and they said over $1000, so there's really no way I could afford to pay them.

I have an Optima Red Top. But, I've learned that it doesn't like to run off it for more than an hour without starting the car. I keep an eye on voltage a little more closely now.

Stock alternator. I'll keep an eye on current draw, but I doubt there's a need to upgrade. I parked in front of a building with my headlights on and at 65% volume I saw no dimming. The mids pull 2-3 amps at <50% power and the highest I've seen was a 9amp draw. The subs.... 10-20 amps, with spikes of 90-100 if I push them.

There's a grommet on the drivers side firewall. If you pull back the carpet you can see it, it's very large. I cut a slit and taped the 1/0 wire to a coat hanger and pushed it through. I took the battery and air filter box out to make it easier to route. My 1/0 is wrapped in flex loom, so it should be safe from abrasion.

The interior comes apart very easy. 4 bolts per seat, 2 screws in each front door panel, 1 screw in the rear door panels and most plastic pieces have plastic pressure fittings (just pull). The back seat needs to be removed in pieces, first the back portion and then the base comes right out. Once the plastic along the sides of the carpet is off you can fold the carpet up to the center console. I never completely removed the carpet nor all of the center console. While the interior was apart I kept the pieces in my living room. One person can do all of the work on their own. But take the headrests off the seats- it makes them much easier to get out.
 
#25 ·
good advice.

Thank you for all the answers and tips.
I think I will go ahead and start picking up the pieces. My 2 main problems with local shops is..
1. you have no idea who the person is tearing your car apart. Are they good?
Of course they want you to buy only the brands they sell regardless of your own opinions, experience.
2. the price is so inflated, and I understand why, I worked retail for many years. Just have a hard time justifying it.

I will begin buying the pieces and parts, and when weather gets better, so April.[no garage, and we have snow until march April ] I will install.
 
#27 ·
Did you listen to your speakers in shop or car before you bought them?

just curious, what speakers you checked out was all.
I used MBQ before and had heard the Q series ones in a shop and car before. Initially I thought about using JL C5 components. I listened to them in a store and even bought a pair of co-axes, but the silk tweeter (which most people love) didn't have the brightness that I wanted. There are people out there that don't like the brightness of a Ti tweeter, and it's usually the biggest complaint about MBQ.

I'd suggest stopping by a few shops or visiting a local car stereo show to audition a variety. A car show can offer lines no longer in production, which can give the most bang for the buck. Just tell the shops you're looking to buy after you get your tax refund and they won't try to push a sale.
 
#28 ·
6.5's

all good ideas.
So today while car was warming up I was looking around inside, I see not screws to take off door covers, to get at the 6.5 mid bass. and how do you get the a pillar covers off? do you simply pull? move them a certain way? is there a secret code I need to beep the horn... beep beep beeeeeeep beeep?


or does that activate ejection seat?
 
#29 ·
The switch for the windows and door locks pries off. Once it is out you can see the 2 screws. Then just pull the panel off- although a plastic panel removal tool can save you some grief in the future.

The A pillars come off by pulling. Just pry away at the top and they come off pretty easily.

The ejection seat is activated by unplugging and re-connecting the seat airbags with the battery still connected.
 
#30 ·
eject!

under the drivers seat of my car is a power wire that seems to be for power seat? when I look under and up I see two separate connectors, and then a small black wire running back and out, I am guessing this is for power seat. except it has never worked.... I have been looking @ amps and have decided on a 5 channel to run my system. Alpine PDX 5. amazon has it on sale for $349.99. That will work perfect. 100 x 4 and 300 x 1 for sub.
Have you looked to see what we have for speakers in rear doors? are they also 6.5?
 
#38 ·
under the drivers seat of my car is a power wire that seems to be for power seat? when I look under and up I see two separate connectors, and then a small black wire running back and out, I am guessing this is for power seat. except it has never worked.... I have been looking @ amps and have decided on a 5 channel to run my system. Alpine PDX 5. amazon has it on sale for $349.99. That will work perfect. 100 x 4 and 300 x 1 for sub.
Have you looked to see what we have for speakers in rear doors? are they also 6.5?
I think this is for the seat airbags...
 
#31 ·
yup 6.5 all around
 
#33 ·
You can tear apart the factory speakers and use the frame to mount your new ones,
I should've tried this. Never done it that way before. Love to see pics.
A better seal would definitely help here. Like my "temporary" connection?:DSo far, so good...
 
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