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Nah, commonly they are bought as a pair of parts already pressed together. I used to sell them OTC. Or, you can get parts separately.
It's good to know that when it comes to wheel bearings you get ones that generally last much longer by staying away from the hub/bearing or drum/bearing combos, those commonly use much cheaper bearings to hold cost down but the bearings can be junk. I look at the bearing as needing to pretty much cost around $50 by itself if you want it to last. And name brand is a must too, Timken, SKF, Bowers BCA, and the like, NEVER buy a branded chain store part there, they often are crap. I bought one and instant noise turning into grinding first day, the bearing upon teardown had ZERO grease in it. I saw it happen to others too. The cheaper Chinese bearings are garbage. You are dollars ahead by developing the practice of opening the bearing box to look at the part, you will find more often than not that what is inside has nothing to do with what the outer box has printed on it. The last Centric bearings I bought at Rock Auto turned out to be top line SKF in box and a happy find. $50 bearing for $30, can't beat that. You really cannot grasp how much reboxing goes on there unless you do it like I did every time I turned around.
I work on all my own cars and never pay for it and every wheel bearing I ever installed other than that one parts store branded one (Master Pro) is still running today, some are over 20 years old. Done right you should not have to change that one again.
The end torque on the axle nut MUST hit spec or you can kiss the bearing goodbye, the bearing relies on that torque for dimensional stability and it tears up in short order not having it. The most common way to frag them early next to bad choice in quality.
Last edited by amc49; 01-12-2017 at 03:58 AM.