Hardware for control arm/ball joint and upper link replacment? - Nissan Versa Forums
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post #1 of 13 Old 11-17-2018, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
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Hardware for control arm/ball joint and upper link replacment?

Hi all, I find myself about to change out the control arm and the vertical assist link that goes somewhat with it on a 2009 Versa 1.8L 6 speed manual.

I managed to source parts from rock auto, but they won't arrive for several days, and they don't seem to come with new bolts. I would like to replace those bolts while I'm at it; can anyone tell me what size/length/strength I require for these?

And related the Haynes manual casually says "to get the pivot bolt out you might have to lower the suspension cross member." Anyone have experience with this want to tell me if I will, or merely "might"?
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post #2 of 13 Old 11-18-2018, 07:27 AM
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Use your eyes, if the bolt head is on the top and the suspension plate traps it you are likely there. Maybe not on these, the '11 model shows the bolt head on bottom. Same chassis I'm thinking.

The strength, or property class should be on the bolt head. Not necessary to change them even by Nissan as they are not TTY bolts and can be retorqued more than once, your issue would be if the bolt does not seem to pull up tight then it would need replacing or say corrosion damage.
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Last edited by amc49; 11-18-2018 at 07:39 AM.
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post #3 of 13 Old 11-19-2018, 05:10 PM
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This is out of a 2008 versa manual. I think they are the same?

Are we talking about bolts for 12 & 13?
You should be able to purchase any OEM bolt from a local dealer. You just have to find the correct part number.
When I did my sub-frame on a 2011, I had to replace the lower bolt on #12. I got it from my local dealer.

The parts guys at the dealerships are usually top-notch, they know there stuff.

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And related the Haynes manual casually says "to get the pivot bolt out you might have to lower the suspension cross member." Anyone have experience with this want to tell me if I will, or merely "might"?
In-order to get the big horizontal bolt that holds the control arm to the sub-frame, you have to either lower the sub-frame a bit, or unbolt the engine mount on that side of the engine and jack the engine up a bit. I've heard it being done both ways.

Here's a video a guy talking about it.

Your two problem spots will be removing the lower bolt on #12 (it might be fused in the linkage) and removing the lower control's ball joint from the steering knuckle.

good luck!
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post #4 of 13 Old 11-19-2018, 11:54 PM
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Remove the engine mount, that does not force a wheel alignment when done. Lowering the subframe does.

Unless you are in the rusty belt a simple screwdriver stuck up in the slot for the ball joint stud in the knuckle to open the slot a little bit lets the stud fall right out, going back in is where most have trouble, the stud keeps tipping out of plane with the hole, it must be dead on plane to plane to go in instantly. So many have lost patience by then to thoroughly lose their butts on that simple task.
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post #5 of 13 Old 11-20-2018, 02:09 PM
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LOL, yes! All my warnings and problem spots, come from the Rust Belt!

If your not in the rust belt, then everything should be much easier.
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post #6 of 13 Old 11-21-2018, 04:53 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone! I'm not in a rust belt, but I think the car was before it came here. Looks like it was born in Illinois, even though it emigrated to Colorado. So, engine mount eh. I'll give that a try.
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post #7 of 13 Old 11-21-2018, 05:23 PM
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You might only have to do the engine mount trick to the drivers side. I can't remember if the horizontal lower control arm bolt issue was on the driver side or both.

My brain is foggy, it's been awhile since I researched this stuff.
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post #8 of 13 Old 11-21-2018, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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So, two bits of good news, and one somewhat worrying uncertainty.

Good news number one, my parts arrived today, two days ahead of schedule, and that's awesome, since I have today off work! (well, I have tomorrow two, but if I spend Thanksgiving under the car, I'll likely be forced to sleep there by the family!)

Good news number two, my 6 speed manual gearbox version has nothing in the way of the forward bolt coming out there's literally nothing there except for a piece of the plastic splash guard. Clearly God drives a stick

Just to check, the bolt that causes the trouble normally is the one that is labeled "119 (12, 88)" in the diagram that scarecrowdjinn posted, right?

However, that bolt doesn't seem to have a nut on the back of it? It looks like it just screws into something captive in the subframe. Is that right? At first I thought someone had totally rounded it off trying to get it out, but looking at the other side, and the diagram, I think that it screws right into the subframe.

This might seem like a stupid question, but I'm lacking a socket for this bolt right now, and have to wait for my wife to come back to take me to buy more tools (yeah, I'm not normally into this level of car work!) So, I figured I'd ask while I'm waiting.

I have another question about that bolt. What do those numbers in the diagram mean? That is, what's the significance of "119 (12, 88)". I notice several bolts with that label, so I'm guessing it's a description, not an identity. But it would be great to actually know...?

Thanks again for everyone's help by the way, it's *really* a great relief to discover I'm not totally alone in my effort to fix this!
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post #9 of 13 Old 11-21-2018, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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Belay that question on the numbers. I just realized that 119 Newton Meters is equal to 12 Kgf-M and 88 ft-lb That seems too much of a coincidence, so I'm going to believe that (at least unless anyone screams otherwise!)
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post #10 of 13 Old 11-21-2018, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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Oh, but wait, now I realize I totally misunderstood. scarecrowdjinn's observation about the bolt for #12 was referring to the vertical link (part number 12). I thought we were talking about the forward pivot bolt--because it has that number 119 (12, 88) and I mistook that for being what you were referring to.

Did I mention this is not within my normal range of car work. Sigh

Anyway, I did want to replace that vertical (I bought it). So, perhaps that's still going to give me trouble... I'll take another look.

Sorry for rambling and being so inexperienced.
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