weak heat output - Nissan Versa Forums
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post #1 of 7 Old 12-22-2016, 11:52 PM Thread Starter
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weak heat output

Hi,
Issue weak heater output.
Thanks in advance for looking.
Just bought a 2009 versa sl with cvt 89k miles.
Bought car used just before cold snap.

Car starts and runs ok ( no overheat). On cold start, thermostat closes ok as cold light goes out there is maybe 60% of normal heat.
If engine warm, and car running at idle, heat output good, on moving or highway speeds heat output drops.

Did change coolant, I do not think there are any bubbles in system.

I understand car has 2 thermostats, don't know which one may be bad.

Thanks again!!!
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post #2 of 7 Old 12-23-2016, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alrotel View Post
Hi,
Issue weak heater output.
... 2 thermostats, don't know which one may be bad.
Tried 3 times to upload the image of your thermostat and water control valve and their locations. Forum "attach file" says file not valid jpg (after upload), but it is.

The WCV is for the block and sits in the multi-port adapter housing on d's side of engine. Thermostat is for block and head and sits in housing on opposite side of WP, between engine and radiator.

Can you determine if thermostat is opening (not stuck open) by feeling the hoses from it and to and from radiator, with the car cold and then starting it and letting it idle till the thermostat and WVC open (till those hoses warm, in sequence)?
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post #3 of 7 Old 12-23-2016, 09:12 PM
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I have a 2016 s sedan. No cold light, just a hot one. Heat is good and maybe a few minutes after startup. I notice if I take it to 4 or 5 grand before shifting the heat gets hot, then once I get up to speed and idle along in 5th it starts to go mild.
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post #4 of 7 Old 01-04-2017, 05:37 AM
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Two stats? (Shaking head sadly)

I'm new here, my son has the Versa sedan 1.8 2011. Beginning to expand my knowledge base on these, I do 100% of all work on all my cars and his as well. Can't trust dealers for spit around here (DFW-Texas) other than their money snatching skills and the tendency to tell lies that would upend Mark Twain.

So far the car has so outstripped in dependability the Fords I've had in a long stream that I will NOT be buying another Ford-EVER.
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post #5 of 7 Old 01-04-2017, 11:13 PM
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+1 on the t stat. You can also buy a bad tstat so its good to test it with a pot of boiling water. When installing it the body goes towards the engine.

Wow, 2 t stats? Ive owned a few hondas and finally got my head wrapped around vtec, vcm and such. Now on to the wonder world of Nissan.
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post #6 of 7 Old 01-05-2017, 12:28 AM
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On the Altimas, they did away with the WCV for the '13s and up? Too many issues (was told). They did away with it on the Versas for the '12s (I think?).
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post #7 of 7 Old 01-16-2017, 05:00 AM
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I'm going to look close at the system to see if I can dump one of them too. Simply no need for that in my mind.

I dumped one of the cooling loops in Ford Focus cars to have them run cooler in the dead of summer here in Texas, it worked like gangbusters. I suspect that WCV may be more of the same. Much of the extra plumbing that so confuses people now is simply to self-bleed rad and engine and to warm the car up much faster at coldstart to lower emissions, coldstarts being one of the few places the OEMs still have fits cleaning up emissions.
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