Intake specifications for 2012 versa 1.6s mr16de - Nissan Versa Forums
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post #1 of 10 Old 02-25-2017, 02:05 AM Thread Starter
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Intake specifications for 2012 versa 1.6s mr16de

Im planning on starting to do some upgrades to various things, starting with a cold air intake, but im not about to pay $150+ for something i could put together and have working even better, but i want to make sure i get the right size of intake tubing or at least get the correct sizing adapter if needed, without having to remove my intake down to my throttle body. So my question is, what is the diameter of the intake off of the throttle body in inches?
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post #2 of 10 Old 02-25-2017, 12:40 PM
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YOU are NOT doing 'upgrades' if you make others do the work....................get out there and measure yours yourself.

Krikey, how hard can it be? Measure the outside circumference and divide by 3.14 to get diameter and a small subtraction off that for rubber thickness will get you within 1 1/16". If you can't do that then hard to see how you will get it working 'better' than the $150 kit.
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post #3 of 10 Old 02-25-2017, 05:50 PM
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How are you going to mount the MAF? This isn't the sort of thing you can just slap together. Not worth it for a brief period of +2 HP that the ECU will probably learn and tune out anyways.
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post #4 of 10 Old 02-25-2017, 07:59 PM
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I think we already have a CAI from the factory. What Id to improve it would be to insulate it so the heat from under the hood has less of an effect.

Most CAIs do give more hp, but at the expense of tq and the filter lets more crap in. I had a kn filter on a car for 100k miles and it looked like it was sand blasted inside.
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post #5 of 10 Old 02-26-2017, 07:53 AM
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K&N is the biggest farce on the planet. I sold plenty of them though. I remember buying them for motorcycles way back before they became well known to raise their prices 500%.

They are very hard to get the oil amount right in them. Best way is to slightly over-oil then set it on something the oil won't hurt and then let it sit 3 days to drain to only what gets held in the gauze by capillary action as designed. Otherwise you kill the MAF action until the filter has 'sucked down' to the normal oil level that stays retained in the gauze. That can often burn excess oil on plug tips to miss then too. Once you have run the filter for a while take it out and hold the matrix up to the light and look through it. All those specks of light you see are holes that dirt can freely get through if small enough the speck does not touch the side of hole to stick on the oil.

They stop lots of dirt but they also let lots get by, I found that out on dirt bikes way back, the engines kept dying from dirt wear in dusty conditions.

Better to use foam filters, they do the same but the thicker media forces the air to twist all over the place and much more likely to stick the dirt inside filter where it belongs, they hold more oil and longer too.

Like pointed out any MAF re-location if necessary can easily kill you too, they need to be in a very carefully chosen spot to work best. Any change to MAF location tube ID and the MAF is automatically out of calibration to be wrong, wrong, wrong. That is MUCH more important than the TB size per se.

Last edited by amc49; 02-26-2017 at 07:59 AM.
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post #6 of 10 Old 02-28-2017, 05:25 PM
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There is no MR16DE engine.


205,125 miles when she was given away
35 mpg last tank


̶w̶a̶i̶t̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶f̶o̶r̶ ̶h̶e̶r̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶d̶i̶e̶ ̶s̶o̶ ̶I̶ ̶c̶a̶n̶ ̶b̶u̶y̶ ̶a̶ ̶t̶r̶u̶c̶k̶,̶ ̶b̶u̶t̶ ̶s̶h̶e̶ ̶w̶o̶n̶'̶t̶ ̶d̶i̶e̶ She didn't die but I bought the truck anyway!!
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post #7 of 10 Old 02-28-2017, 07:58 PM
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Sure there's not one on the foreign market? There seem to be parts sold for them.................I found mention of them at other Nissan sites too. Ford does the same, many engine sizes and types sold in Europe not available here. Here they have trouble passing off engines under 2.0 liter, the public doesn't really like them.
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post #8 of 10 Old 03-01-2017, 11:57 AM
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There is the HR16DE and the MR16DDT but no MR16DE. I am sure there are parts sold but those websites are mistaken on the engine code. Most likely knew the 1.8 versa was an MR18DE and just assumed the 1.6 was the MR16DE.


205,125 miles when she was given away
35 mpg last tank


̶w̶a̶i̶t̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶f̶o̶r̶ ̶h̶e̶r̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶d̶i̶e̶ ̶s̶o̶ ̶I̶ ̶c̶a̶n̶ ̶b̶u̶y̶ ̶a̶ ̶t̶r̶u̶c̶k̶,̶ ̶b̶u̶t̶ ̶s̶h̶e̶ ̶w̶o̶n̶'̶t̶ ̶d̶i̶e̶ She didn't die but I bought the truck anyway!!
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post #9 of 10 Old 03-01-2017, 08:08 PM
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I can tell you opening up the exhaust is a better use of your time and money. The intake looks rather free flowing as is. Only thing Id do is insulate it with some coozies or exhaust wrap to further insulate it from the heat under the hood. Id also try to insulate the plastic intake manifold.
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post #10 of 10 Old 03-02-2017, 12:14 AM
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After many years of drag racing it is pretty clear to me anyway you commonly get more power by working the exhaust first.

Solid reasons for that.............when exhaust flows better by itself the intake increases as well, when intake flows more it typically then stacks up in the exhaust.
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