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post #1 of 6 Old 05-18-2017, 05:01 AM Thread Starter
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Exclamation MAF Issue?

Okay... let's get started
I have a manual 1.6L Versa
I recently bought a K&N air filter and made my own intake, as I couldn't find an aftermarket one. The car began to start on high RPM and to make some cricket noises when hard on gas. I then unplugged the MAF sensor (thinking that the cause of the problem was the diameter of the intake). The car then started to run OK. The next morning I turned the keys and nothing. Tryed pressing the gas pedal while turning the key, got it going. The car then ran sluggish till the engine was hot (pressing the gas pedal and 1 sec later it responded) and while cold, if i took my foot out of the gas and went slow, the engine would die, specially when idle. Then I bought an ebay MAF with housing, with the "right" diameter. Installed it, needed to adapt a different plug for it. Done. Plugged it. Ran smooth, almost normal... the next morning the car was like the MAF was unplugged. Decided to revert everything, removed my self built intake and reinstalled the stock one with the original MAF and reverted the plug adaption. No luck. Car seems to be running with no MAF, sluggish, low iddle, strong fuel smell...
Help?
Thanks!
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post #2 of 6 Old 05-18-2017, 06:03 AM
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Depends on the quality of your retrofit back to stock. You cannot have ANY unmetered air leak in the intake after the MAF. If the MAF unit you are using now is one that the K&N was in front of then clean it using spray, the K&N if over-oiled will let excess oil come off it under vacuum to coat the MAF and then it's messed up. Pull your plugs and see if your mods wet them out to be black or wet (the fuel smell). If so change them. At this point your ebay MAF is not reliable, don't use it.

Any codes or CEL? Then wipe all, you may be in limp mode induced by you messing up your engine tune.

Pray like h-ll that your electrical plug adapting was not more complicated than you thought, often changing a plug up moves some/all of the pins around to not be the ones needed in the places needed and you then toast your computer. You NEVER adapt a plug without 100% knowledge of the exact pinouts of both pieces so that you know where you are at at all times. Accepting others' word for that is death.

Last edited by amc49; 05-18-2017 at 06:09 AM.
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post #3 of 6 Old 05-18-2017, 11:33 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
Depends on the quality of your retrofit back to stock. You cannot have ANY unmetered air leak in the intake after the MAF. If the MAF unit you are using now is one that the K&N was in front of then clean it using spray, the K&N if over-oiled will let excess oil come off it under vacuum to coat the MAF and then it's messed up. Pull your plugs and see if your mods wet them out to be black or wet (the fuel smell). If so change them. At this point your ebay MAF is not reliable, don't use it.

Any codes or CEL? Then wipe all, you may be in limp mode induced by you messing up your engine tune.

Pray like h-ll that your electrical plug adapting was not more complicated than you thought, often changing a plug up moves some/all of the pins around to not be the ones needed in the places needed and you then toast your computer. You NEVER adapt a plug without 100% knowledge of the exact pinouts of both pieces so that you know where you are at at all times. Accepting others' word for that is death.
Left the battery unplugged the whole night... the car turned on kinda easier and gas is not sluggish anymore and engine won't die when idle... gonna clean the memory later...
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post #4 of 6 Old 05-21-2017, 03:26 AM
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Luck.............
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post #5 of 6 Old 05-22-2017, 08:18 PM
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I use to be a whore for KN stuff, but Im no more. Last car I used one on looked like the whole intake side was sandblasted and was dirty. Engine had a lot of blow by at 104 thousand miles.

Ive decided to stick with the regular filter. Sometimes the tube helps, but its a rob peter to pay paul type of deal. Those chambers and extra parts to the intake help to give a broad power and torque band. When you go to a "CAI" it may up your peak hp, but you loose some mid range torque.
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post #6 of 6 Old 05-24-2017, 06:10 AM
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You're learnin'.

They spend millions to get the resonation frequencies lined up perfectly in OEM airboxes to have thousands of people then defeat that thinking they are doing something 'better'. The power of mass marketing.........

Take a K&N that has been oiled, drive it a month and then pull the filter and look at it with the bright sun behind it. You can literally see the hundreds of thousands of small pinholes that air leaks through, fine if you still have oil left in the media but let it get dry and dirt flies through those holes like you have no filter at all. The filter relies on the fact that most particles will stumble through the holes rather than enter clean with no touching at the hole sides, the touching is what sticks the dirt to the oil. Once no oil is there in mass the dirt flies right through and bounces off the sides.

In my view they blow as much gas as they 'save', when you oil them the engine has to pull that oil amount off to reduce it to the running amount based on each individual engines' vacuum pattern, that vacuumed oil mist then messes up the MAF hot wire until you clean it off. The only way you don't get overoiling is when the filter is new and preloaded with it, the sprayer there can be optimized for just the correct amount. Most users of the spray cans of oil overspray and then the problems. Why if I use an oiled filter (I use foam rather than gauze, it traps better, and mainly on bike) it's a spare so I can let the replacement sit for a week to let excess oil drain out of it by gravity.

I dumped K&N when they got the fat head and tripled their prices, they used to be so cheap in the '80s. Now you're paying for name not product there.
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