Rpm drop - Nissan Versa Forums
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post #1 of 8 Old 01-09-2018, 10:19 PM Thread Starter
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Rpm drop

I have a 2016 versa with manual transmission. At a light my rpm's drop to about 500 then go back to around 900. This occurs with or without the AC being on. I only have 21k miles. It's also started a ticking noise around the alternator
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post #2 of 8 Old 01-10-2018, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Bryon View Post
I have a 2016 versa with manual transmission. At a light my rpm's drop to about 500 then go back to around 900. This occurs with or without the AC being on. I only have 21k miles. It's also started a ticking noise around the alternator
If you are still under the bumper to bumper warranty, take it into the dealer and have it checked. No sense racking your brain trying to find an answer. At least you will have the problem documented, and, if at a later date it gets more serious you can bring that documentation up in the discussion. Good luck
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post #3 of 8 Old 01-12-2018, 04:59 AM
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It's normal. To improve fuel economy, Nissan's electrical systems can vary the load on the alternator, thus the change in RPMs. On the 1.6 engine, it's definitely more noticeable than, say, on a Titan 5.6 V8, but it's not a problem.
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post #4 of 8 Old 01-12-2018, 09:22 PM
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I dont notice this. Unless my ac is on its hard to hear or feel if the engine is idling. Could be something to try different gas station or check to see if air filter is dirty.
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post #5 of 8 Old 01-20-2018, 07:45 PM
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I don't notice the issue either. 2016 Versa S Sedan with manual trans. My RPM's are smooth and stay the same at a red light or a stop.
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post #6 of 8 Old 01-22-2018, 07:42 PM
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I actually notice this as well on my 2011 Versa Hatch. I have 87k and I'd say that it didn't start becoming noticeable until around 60k miles. It will only happen when idling, and it feels almost like the engine shutters for a second then goes back to normal. Drops to around the same RPM I'd say.

I also, around the same time, started to notice a more prominent vibration under my seat and in the brake pedal when I'm idling in Drive. Switching into Neutral or Park makes it go away. Just wondering is this is all normal behavior for a car approaching 100k miles.

Is there anything I can be looking at to make sure all is well?
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post #7 of 8 Old 01-23-2018, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by dovi04 View Post
I actually notice this as well on my 2011 Versa Hatch. I have 87k and I'd say that it didn't start becoming noticeable until around 60k miles. It will only happen when idling, and it feels almost like the engine shutters for a second then goes back to normal. Drops to around the same RPM I'd say.

I also, around the same time, started to notice a more prominent vibration under my seat and in the brake pedal when I'm idling in Drive. Switching into Neutral or Park makes it go away. Just wondering is this is all normal behavior for a car approaching 100k miles.

Is there anything I can be looking at to make sure all is well?


The OP has a manual transmission. It sounds as if you have an automatic. If you have the CVT (not sure if your year model does) I would look at the trans.
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post #8 of 8 Old 01-24-2018, 07:11 AM
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I test drove one of those with 4 doors and 4wd. It was fairly quick, but I was unable to squeal or even chirp tires. I had just gas in it as I know its a flex fuel vehicle. It had 30 thousand miles on it and they wanted 30 grand for it at the dealer.

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Originally Posted by jnewkirk77 View Post
on a Titan 5.6 V8, but it's not a problem.
Most car manufactures have an high, low and off mode for the alternator to help save fuel. It use to be the alternator was constantly charging the electrical system when it was running. Now most measure the load and respond to the needs. Honda uses something called the ELD electronic load device that measures power drawn on the positive side of the fuse box to tell the alt how much power to make. Nissan uses something on the negative power cable as to why they say not to ground to the battery. Many people who add amps to hondas over ride or bypass the eld.

So, might not be a bad idea to have the battery load tested to see if its going out. My oem battery I replaced at 6 months due to some funny behavior. I went to check the fluid and it was low to empty in the cells and filling it up with water seem to made it even worse.
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