stumble while accelerating under load - Nissan Versa Forums
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post #1 of 21 Old 02-12-2019, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
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stumble while accelerating under load

Hello all.
i have a 2011 versa 1.8 hachback.
Out of the blue today, The car stumbles or "misses"? when accelerating while driving, more pronounced while going up hill.
it's almost like the whole engine cuts out of a split-second.

There currently are no check engine lights or codes.
Cannot recreate the problem revving the engine in park. I fear the car is going to stall.
purrs like a kitten when idling
starts just fine

I'm thinking dying fuel pump $$$
or spark plugs (which the car is due for)

So the plan is now, to replace spark plugs and see if the problem continues.
If it does, going to replace the fuel pump?

Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions?

Quick question, Intake and throttle body gaskets needed? or can the just be reused if i'm careful?

Last edited by scarecrowdjinn; 02-12-2019 at 09:39 PM.
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post #2 of 21 Old 02-12-2019, 07:58 PM
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You don't mention trans type. If it's a CVT could be going into 'limp' mode. Don't just start replacing things until you figure out what you are looking for.

If it idles fine and revs fine in neutral you probably don't need to replace the plugs or the fuel pump.
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post #3 of 21 Old 02-12-2019, 09:37 PM Thread Starter
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Thank for the reply!
It's an automatic, non-cvt

I've replace the spark plugs an I'm slowly putting things back together.
The gap on the removed spark plugs were around .050 to .055 . My repair Manual (and new ones) say .043 . So they did need to be replaced.

Right now i'm looking at throttle body. it's just sitting there all dirty begging to be cleaned. But i keep reading about people getting into trouble trying to clean it. I could not find any versa specific tips on throttle body cleaning on these forums. I know not to unplug it, but can moving the butterfly valve to clean around it cause problems also?
It's just sitting there staring me in the face as I do my work.
(Like the 1 ring calling to Frodo)

Please keep the tips and suggestions coming!

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post #4 of 21 Old 02-13-2019, 12:06 AM
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DON'T re-use the gaskets, they do NOT rebound and often if silicone they get much softer to leak when heated with use.

If you move the butterfly at all the odds of getting back in the correct spot are a million to one against you, the throttle actually stops lightly cracked open and you have no way to determine how many thousandths of an inch it is open.

If you run any solvent down into electronics while doing things give it up. Ditto too much running down the throttle shaft to get into the shaft bearings, the seals then flaw and vacuum leak.

Fun, huh?
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post #5 of 21 Old 02-13-2019, 12:09 AM
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If they use ethanol in your local fuel it just could be water getting into the injectors and momentary until it runs through. If they do, don't buy a gas dryer product, the ethanol is already doing that. If you went to a different station lately it could be that station has water in fuel. Not much, but even a small drop will freak the engine out for a second.
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post #6 of 21 Old 02-13-2019, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
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Update... not good...

Got the car back together, I did not clean the Throttle body, I want to only break one thing at a time.
The car started without trouble. a few seconds later her idle was bouncing between 900 and 1000 rpms. I then back it out of the garage. Once out side she was starting to stumble again, but this time at idle.
I attempted to rev the car a bit, and it stubbled again almost like I was missing a cylinder and it stalled. Did this about 2 more time, now the car won't start. It just cranks.

Double check my work, did not see any unconnected hoses or unplugged connections.
I did leave the battery unplugged over night, and I did unplug the MAF while the batter was out of the car.

So next steps....
Going to give the car an hour to hopefully bleed of any built up fuel pressure, and I'm going to try and start it again.
I DID hear the fuel pump while starting the car the first time, but after the car quit, I do not hear it anymore. I'm not sure if the pump just isn't on because the pressure is already built up.
Another thing I noticed is that the brake peddle is hard to press now. Kinda like when you press the brake peddle to build up pressure to bleed the brakes.

Any thoughts.

Last edited by scarecrowdjinn; 02-13-2019 at 02:55 PM.
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post #7 of 21 Old 02-13-2019, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
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Update.... I got this error
ID-10-T (i'm an idiot)

Car is now running and a very brief test drive had no stumbles or pauses in the engine.
Tonight i'm going to give it a test on the highway and see how it does. That will test the rpm, speed, and hot engine to see if the problem returns.

I did end up reusing all the gaskets. I torqued everything correctly and time will tell if the used gaskets hold up.
I also ended up doing the throttle body re-learn procedure because unhooking the battery is the same as unplugging the sensor. *duh!*

Now why did my car die and fail to start after I did all the work the first time?
Feel free to post you guess below! i'll post the "i'm an idiot" solution tomorrow!
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post #8 of 21 Old 02-13-2019, 09:57 PM
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If you have a leak from using the gaskets over the engine will relearn to tune it out if it is small enough, the TB simply closes the butterfly down more to make up for the leak. But that takes time. Once the TB cannot close enough though you get what you had on your restart, idle speeds moving all over and commonly higher. The brake pedal getting hard was either vacuum leak or ignition, the pedal hardens up because there is no vacuum in the motor (due to leak or not running right) to help you.

IF you are now leaking it may get worse, or longer term the TB clogs up faster as the normal aircrack is now much smaller than normal, it clogs easier.

Told you not to use those gaskets over, torque CANNOT help a gasket that HAS LOST CRUSH, THEY DO NOT SEAL. They may seem to but later the issues begin and then you are lost as you refuse to go back there (they were good for a while, why would they go bad??) in your logic stream. Modern gaskets do NOT seal by torque per se anyway, they commonly butt the joint solid, the crush is built in and in no way can you help that joint seal better even by overtightening the part tighter than normal. If the silicone 'went soft' the joint typically can suck the silicone clean out of place. You should buy a new gasket and then compare the two together by squeezing them or putting a fingernail hard into it, the difference can be unbelievable. The new gasket will be like 10X as dense in nature. What silicone exposed to fuel vapor long term does. Providing it IS silicone of course.

Yours and do as you will.
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post #9 of 21 Old 02-27-2019, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
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Well, the jerking and stumbling showed up again.

Quick question, are there transmission codes for Nissan that will not necessary turn on a check engine light?
Would a slowly-failing fuel pump cause a check engine light?
Best way to check a fuel pump? wait for it to act up and pressure test?

It occurs when the car is under load, accelerating around 2000 rpms, usually up a slight hill. I'm guessing i'm in 1,2 or 3rd when it happens. It seems to happen during snowstorms and when the car has been fully warmed up. I believe can avoid the stumble(s) if I get a little aggressive with my acceleration.

I cannot recreate at will, some times it acts up, sometimes not. It drove fine for the last 10 days.
I tried spraying some water under the hood to see it the snow/moisture what causing something to short out, but still no luck.

I'm thinking about bringing it to the dealer, but I don't want to get the old "sorry we couldn't recreate it, now give us our money" statement.

feeling down
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post #10 of 21 Old 02-27-2019, 10:57 PM
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Vacuum leak?
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