Radiator drain/flush? - Page 2 - Nissan Versa Forums
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post #11 of 23 Old 03-02-2019, 03:11 PM
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Simon,
I'm assuming that you checked the ODBII temp versus outdoor temperature first thing in the morning? just want to make sure we not overlooking a bad temperature sensor.


Question to the group,
Does anyone know at what temperature the RED temperature warning light comes on? I think the blue light turns off around 130F
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post #12 of 23 Old 03-02-2019, 08:46 PM
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I've wondered if the blue goes off at the switch from open to closed loop, some day I will check. It would be a convenient link.

Red commonly is set up to trip at 260-265 on most car brands and since forever. Meaning you are already in damage territory before it happens. Why a gauge is so important.
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post #13 of 23 Old 03-02-2019, 08:49 PM
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Here's one................does any year Versa come with a temp gauge?

And the more important detail question.................is the response on it directly linear or is it highly damped like other OEM is now doing?
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post #14 of 23 Old 03-03-2019, 12:20 AM
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Just a reminder, when you drain and flush a coolant, set temp regulator in the cabin dash panel to full hot, to completely open passages of "small radiator" in the cabin.
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post #15 of 23 Old 03-03-2019, 06:28 AM
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All the Versa I have seen have full flow heater cores, no need to at all. They don't use heater control valves that cut coolant flow and most cars are like that now, it makes the cores last a LOT longer since sediment cannot settle to clog due to the constant flow.

Now when you call for max heat you are only opening an air door to the core to let air flow not coolant. The heater actually works 100% of the time, just closed off from the rest of the system.
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Last edited by amc49; 03-03-2019 at 06:31 AM.
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post #16 of 23 Old 03-03-2019, 06:09 PM
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^^^ That is correct. My comment about setting a cabin temp gage to the highest heat was more a generic note, where you do not know how a cabin heating is implemented for a particular make and model.
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post #17 of 23 Old 03-06-2019, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
I've wondered if the blue goes off at the switch from open to closed loop, some day I will check. It would be a convenient link.

Red commonly is set up to trip at 260-265 on most car brands and since forever. Meaning you are already in damage territory before it happens. Why a gauge is so important.

I decided to test it out using my scan tool. 2011 versa 1.8 Hatchback
Closed loop starts around 60F
Blue light does turn off at 130F
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post #18 of 23 Old 03-08-2019, 01:39 AM Thread Starter
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Wow, lots of great help, thatnks everyone, it's much appreciated.

I guess in amonst so much, these likely have answers, but I didn't see them as such, so perhaps I can ask for a little more clarification:

1) I think you're saying the chemical flush a waste of time?

2) If I did do the chemical flush, I guess it must be safe to have some of it left when I go for the fill with fresh coolant, though I'll have gotten most of it out when removing the thermostats.

3) I've been particularly concerned that since the half of the fluid that's in the block doesn't even drip out slowly, I'll have a block mostly full of air when first reassembled. I think you're saying this either won't happen, or "it's fine, it'll fill soon enough"?

Anyway, I guess I'm going to have to go for it, thanks for all the input to this point! Fingers are crossed it'll all fill up again OK
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post #19 of 23 Old 03-08-2019, 03:34 AM
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Quit questioning what has been done to hundreds of cars and zero troubles after.

Read what I said AGAIN. There will nothing but water so clean left in the block you could drink it if you had to. Flush it as long as I said. Chemicals will clean out a little bit but not heavy deposits. The chemicals themselves will be gone, important as they are weak acids and will eat into the radiator long term.

The air pockets come out when you race the engine up after the stats open to purge the air out.

Been doing it for 40+ years, I have never paid for a car repair in my life and years at the family garage too. 3 and usually 4 personal cars running at all times during that.
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post #20 of 23 Old 03-08-2019, 03:39 AM
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FYI, NO engine on the planet runs at the exact stat temperature, which is often stamped into the part. They run at some 10-15 degrees hotter than the stat since the temp is beginning to open it, not fully open.

A 195F stat will commonly give engine temps of 205-215 degrees and normal.
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