Level VI Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 89 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
So many questions............here goes.
The engine may well run at 220 and higher, Fords run routinely at 220-230 (fans on and off temps) and all day long. You WANT to cross over 212 occasionally as it lets the PCV valve pull off water as it boils out of the oil. The water that stays in oil is what whoppingly increases low temperature sludge along with the lower temps. Hotter greatly increases engine life.
Change antifreeze once a year? Yes, if you have money to throw away. I change it every 3-5 years depending on circumstance and using old school green coolant like older cars use. I don't use extended life coolant as most of them take up to 6 months to develop full corrosion protection, the old school has that instantly. I've experienced corrosion with the extended life coolant and the old school lasts almost as long even though they will not tell you that.
There is no 'getting fluid from behind the stats', flushing like I said will open the stats slightly and ALL of it comes out, part of that is slowly dropping back the hose amount of fresh flushing water to make the engine temp come up to open the stats. You can tell them open or shut, the water coming out of rad drain will be stone cold or warm if stat is open. Careful, don't burn yourself.
You will NEVER get an engine bone 'dry' of coolant, all engines will keep at least a quart in various crevices and pockets even with block drain plugs removed. It is not possible to remove all of it.
If you follow my method of flushing you WILL (if competent) drain and clean 100% of every thing in the engine, just don't expect it in 5 minutes. Won't be anything left behind except clean water. Of course, if the rad was corroded inside the engine block passages will be too, no chemical cleaner you can buy and safely handle will remove more than a light amount of that.
Finish flush and drain as much as will drain and then add the full gallon of straight AFZ first, likely all will go in, then fill the rest with water. Most cars are set up (by luck or design) to come pretty close to 50/50 when you do that, bigger trucks won't.
Waste of time filling final fill unless you have all parts back together. Fill and start engine and stay over it watching level to drop (you'll get a big one as soon as engine starts) until the stats open, there will be another slight level drop when that happens. Full then until you drive around say 5-10 minutes at higher engine speeds to purge the system and then another final check, check levels again in a couple more days. Why I love the Fords, they add extra hoses to auto bleed the system, by the time the stat has opened the engine is 100% bled of all air. I have never has to use any tool at all to ever fully bleed a car and lots of them when at the garage.
The first time I do work on mine I intend to remove the inlet stat completely, I want to see if it works. My Fords use the exact same cooling system schematic as my Nissan except that Nissan wants a second stat for some reason. The Ford has nothing there. I suspect the second one is to make a cleaner signal to the ECM as to time to go closed loop from open, I intend to test that idea out. 2 stats are just too much, double the chance of an overheat and a really stupid way to lose an engine. I may restrict the as-cast cooling tunnel from the outflow stat to the block intake as well, that worked fine on the Fords and makes it harder to overheat one.
Stat tricks.....................any stat that mounts with the circle vertical needs to have a small (1/16") hole in it with the hole facing straight up 12 o'clock to bleed air out easier. Some stats have them and some don't. Make a hole with drill if none (carefully consider how far in your sealing gasket fits while deciding how far out to make the hole. You want hole out as far as it can be without compromising gasket seal there. Some have a little 'piddle valve' I call it that wobbles in the hole, I remove them always or they tend to rust in place and then you lose your bleed hole. You CAN put a hole in a horizontal mounted stat but not as effective because the hole is not at the highest point to bleed air. It WILL bleed some air out though with stats shut. The hole can go a long way toward fully bleeding the engine of air.
I should write a book.............
Last edited by amc49; 03-02-2019 at 09:54 AM.