SR20DET swap??? - Page 4 - Nissan Versa Forums
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post #31 of 52 Old 07-08-2014, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 07Versa6MT View Post
Yeah there is the VE.. what/when did they put the VE in?
The 2nd gen VE was introduced with the primera and featured the best motor in Nissans arsenal that was NA with over 200 bhp (so 200 at the wheel sounds fishy). I don't want to worry about fitting my tran with the VE so I'm just gonna swap to a 6spd with an LSD I also need to find out more of the engine mounts and am waiting for NECOS to put his in so I can see
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post #32 of 52 Old 07-08-2014, 01:44 PM
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CANbus isn't the limiting factor, that's just a communication protocol. inputs, outputs and expected values, fuel maps... those are the limiting factor. Your best bet is to either go standalone or tune the SR20's ECU. All the sensors and inputs would then match up between the ECU and motor without having to dick around with changing trigger wheels, splicing wires at every harness connector.

The only electrical to worry about is the interface between the in-car harness and the engine harness. That is usually easier than it appears, and may be all of 6 wires to get it running, and a few more to link up the cluster and OBD.

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post #33 of 52 Old 07-08-2014, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by G18Curse View Post
The 2nd gen VE was introduced with the primera and featured the best motor in Nissans arsenal that was NA with over 200 bhp (so 200 at the wheel sounds fishy). I don't want to worry about fitting my tran with the VE so I'm just gonna swap to a 6spd with an LSD I also need to find out more of the engine mounts and am waiting for NECOS to put his in so I can see
My setup is coming from the Nissan GTIR. Complete front clip to make sure I have everything I need & not have to worry about oh crap I need this or that. The GTIR axles will be sent in to be modified to fit our length and spline & set up to handle at least 400hp. The front end will be modified by my fabricator to make it tubular, so I can install intercooler, oil cooler but still keep oem panels. Hood will be modified with GTIR hood scoop but Im only doing that for clearance as Im installing a top mount turbo (mostly for looks). I will be using the GTIR ECU with Nistune software. Im aiming for 300whp wich is pretty easy on this engine. Our cars are light but once I add roll cage and front end it should add like 250 pounds but it will be tripple the power. Once again this car is not for drag but more for Wangan and or surprising the hell out of other cars. So in other words my swap will take some time lol

Last edited by NecosNote; 07-08-2014 at 02:37 PM.
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post #34 of 52 Old 07-08-2014, 10:17 PM
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It's not a protocol, it's a completely different method of wiring involving completely different circuits. Go dig into a modern car and go find out just how easy it is. Go do it if it's so easy...
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post #35 of 52 Old 07-09-2014, 06:43 AM
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Datsun 510 = s2000 engine, 99 Civic = V6 3.2 Acura engine, Mazda Miata = LS1 V8, Nissan S13 = SR20det, Nissan S13= LS1 V8, 1993 RX7 FD= V8 chevy, I'm confident we can figure out this little POS LOL
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post #36 of 52 Old 07-09-2014, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by NecosNote View Post
Datsun 510 = s2000 engine, 99 Civic = V6 3.2 Acura engine, Mazda Miata = LS1 V8, Nissan S13 = SR20det, Nissan S13= LS1 V8, 1993 RX7 FD= V8 chevy, I'm confident we can figure out this little POS LOL
Very impressive resume there Necos. This new project should be cake. Eagerly awaiting the outcome here.
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post #37 of 52 Old 07-09-2014, 07:06 PM
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Very impressive resume there Necos. This new project should be cake. Eagerly awaiting the outcome here.
Thats just a few of my friends and me. I love trying new stuff & so do they, so its always fun.
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post #38 of 52 Old 07-09-2014, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 07Versa6MT View Post
It's not a protocol, it's a completely different method of wiring involving completely different circuits. Go dig into a modern car and go find out just how easy it is. Go do it if it's so easy...
I meant no offense, but I have...

spliced a 2001 Audi TT harness with a mk1 VW GTI. 3 times. Once I used an entire TT harness, once I used only the engine harness and mated to the mk1, and once I went somewhere in between, utilizing the TT fuse box and relay panel. The 4th time I used a full standalone ECU and custom harness spliced to the in-car harness.

It can be difficult, but if you read the diagrams , it may end up as simple as being 6 wires. constant 12V, switch 12V, crank, ground. Ideally you'd want to isolate a couple different 12V lines to avoid overloads and protect circuits.

If you want the cluster to work, it gets a bit more complicated, as you'll have to match input signals from the ECU to the cluster, and match wires to the proper gauge. if inputs are different or analog, then you're talking signal converters or other trickery.

OBD protocol is determined by the ECU (ok, not really, but the ECU will only use one or the other), using the SR20 ECU would likely be Hex-Can, which would be 2-3 wires, critical lines are the K-line (the diagnostic signal line), power and ground.

think of it this way: What controls the engine? The ECU. So if you have the engine harness, all you need to do is provide power and ground to the ECU, power to the fuel pump, and and power to the starter. Everything else is just background noise, optional.

'15 Fiesta ST
'08 versa S hatch, 6sp (Traded for FiST)
'84 VW Rabbit GTI, running an Audi 1.8T
'13 Nissan Quest SL
'78 Mustang Cobra - next build, from 140hp to 300.

"A person who lives within their means suffers from a lack of imagination"
-T.S. Elliot
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post #39 of 52 Old 07-09-2014, 07:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NecosNote View Post
Datsun 510 = s2000 engine, 99 Civic = V6 3.2 Acura engine, Mazda Miata = LS1 V8, Nissan S13 = SR20det, Nissan S13= LS1 V8, 1993 RX7 FD= V8 chevy, I'm confident we can figure out this little POS LOL
I'm not sure which I like more, The Civic running the 3.2, or the 510 running the S2000.

'15 Fiesta ST
'08 versa S hatch, 6sp (Traded for FiST)
'84 VW Rabbit GTI, running an Audi 1.8T
'13 Nissan Quest SL
'78 Mustang Cobra - next build, from 140hp to 300.

"A person who lives within their means suffers from a lack of imagination"
-T.S. Elliot
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post #40 of 52 Old 07-09-2014, 07:41 PM
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Wow we have some people with experience doing these kind of things here! That's good!

RStolz i guess i just have a different interpretation of a clean working swap than you. I guess if you can get it to run then that's all that matters. But me i'd like it to be a clean swap, almost indiscernible from OEM. I guess i should go look at some wiring diagrams before i go any further talking about this... but i would imagine the NATS security system would be a problem as well in getting the thing to run.

Me i'm all about simple, with no unecessary bullshittery in getting things to work. That's why i think the MR20DE (early motors 07-08 MY Sentra's) swap is better for most people here. For the crazy people who just don't give a shit and have the time and money to do an SR or QR swap, that's cool too and always interesting, but i'm more interested in an easy swap that can get people a few more HP and TQ reliably. With Bob's lightweight flywheel and numerous other stuff available, the modded MR20 can be a formidable motor in a Versa (which is light, so it doesn't need much power to be quick).

Last edited by 07Versa6MT; 07-09-2014 at 07:44 PM.
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