Versa SV 2012 - A/C Diagnostic Help - Nissan Versa Forums
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post #1 of 11 Old 09-06-2018, 11:32 PM Thread Starter
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Versa SV 2012 - A/C Diagnostic Help

Hello everyone,

I had a misfire on cylinder 4. Found out it was the ignition coil and spark plugs going bad. Replaced and everything is fine. But now the A/C suddenly stopped working. Not sure if it was a coincidence while replacing the spark plugs. I've also reset the codes to remove the check engine light. Anyways... here's my diagnostic so far.

1. A/C button light turns on.
2. Compressor clutch does not engage. High pressure to condenser is obviously not hot.
3. While A/C button is on, I'm not getting any ohm readings at the fuse "AIR CON IG2" - interior fuse panel on driver side.
4. I've also checked the fuse AC COMP under the hood and not getting any ohms.

I've tried disconnecting battery for a couple of minutes, no success.
I've tried suggestions on youtube to turn the knobs to get the compressor to kick on after battery has been disconnected, no success.

Is there anything else to check? Is there a AC relay some where?
What is the wiring trace from the A/C button?
Does low freon not engage or send signal to the compressor?

Any information would be helpful. Thank you.

Last edited by offthewall; 09-06-2018 at 11:41 PM.
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post #2 of 11 Old 09-07-2018, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by offthewall View Post
Hello everyone,

I had a misfire on cylinder 4. Found out it was the ignition coil and spark plugs going bad. Replaced and everything is fine. But now the A/C suddenly stopped working. Not sure if it was a coincidence while replacing the spark plugs. I've also reset the codes to remove the check engine light. Anyways... here's my diagnostic so far.

1. A/C button light turns on.
2. Compressor clutch does not engage. High pressure to condenser is obviously not hot.
3. While A/C button is on, I'm not getting any ohm readings at the fuse "AIR CON IG2" - interior fuse panel on driver side.
4. I've also checked the fuse AC COMP under the hood and not getting any ohms.

I've tried disconnecting battery for a couple of minutes, no success.
I've tried suggestions on youtube to turn the knobs to get the compressor to kick on after battery has been disconnected, no success.

Is there anything else to check? Is there a AC relay some where?
What is the wiring trace from the A/C button?
Does low freon not engage or send signal to the compressor?

Any information would be helpful. Thank you.
I would start with the basics. If the AC was working prior to you doing the work you mention, and now it is not, I would suggest that you recheck the areas that you worked on to see if a wire was broken, or an electrical plug became loose. AS far as checking the fuses, I am a simpleton, I like to remove the fuse and check it with an ohm meter to insure that it is in good condition, and there are no hidden defects. I then use "electrical contact cleaner" on both the fuse and the fuse holder. I would then check the ac pressure switch to make sure that the wires are not broken or dislodged. Good luck
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post #3 of 11 Old 09-09-2018, 12:20 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by pimperell View Post
I would start with the basics. If the AC was working prior to you doing the work you mention, and now it is not, I would suggest that you recheck the areas that you worked on to see if a wire was broken, or an electrical plug became loose. AS far as checking the fuses, I am a simpleton, I like to remove the fuse and check it with an ohm meter to insure that it is in good condition, and there are no hidden defects. I then use "electrical contact cleaner" on both the fuse and the fuse holder. I would then check the ac pressure switch to make sure that the wires are not broken or dislodged. Good luck
Where is the A/C pressure switch located on the 2012 Versa SV? Is that the switch on the receiver drier?

Last edited by offthewall; 09-09-2018 at 01:20 AM.
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post #4 of 11 Old 09-09-2018, 01:45 PM
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Where is the A/C pressure switch located on the 2012 Versa SV? Is that the switch on the receiver drier?

The shop manuals are no longer available on line so the link below shows you what it looks like, but does not show where it is located in the system.


https://www.carid.com/nissan-versa-a...Out%20Switches
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post #5 of 11 Old 09-12-2018, 01:19 AM Thread Starter
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Alright, I figured it out. And very dumb of me, should of checked this before troubleshooting all the other things. I had 0 PSI reading. Now I know there had to be a leak since it was working just the day before. So I pumped my air compressor into the system, a rock or something made a little dent on the condenser in the front and air is just coming straight out. I'll be placing the condenser, vacuuming, and adding new freon. This should fix it.

Thanks for the help!
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post #6 of 11 Old 09-15-2018, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
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Ok. So replaced condenser. Vacuumed the system. Holding vacuum. No more leaks.

I proceeded to add refrigerant to the system and noticed the compressor will not engage. System is at about 75 PSI low and high, both equal now after adding 11 Oz of refrigerant, without the compressor clutch engaging.

Is there a manual way for me to engage the compressor clutch? There is only 1 wire going to the compressor. Not sure if its possible to jump the 3 pin pressure transducer? I've tried that but seems like only activates the fan.

Last edited by offthewall; 09-15-2018 at 11:21 AM.
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post #7 of 11 Old 09-15-2018, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by offthewall View Post
Ok. So replaced condenser. Vacuumed the system. Holding vacuum. No more leaks.

I proceeded to add refrigerant to the system and noticed the compressor will not engage. System is at about 75 PSI low and high, both equal now after adding 11 Oz of refrigerant, without the compressor clutch engaging.

Is there a manual way for me to engage the compressor clutch? There is only 1 wire going to the compressor. Not sure if its possible to jump the 3 pin pressure transducer? I've tried that but seems like only activates the fan.
Read post number 4. Click on HAC-48 in the post, and it will take you to a PDF file which is the shop manual for the ac system.

https://www.nissanclub.com/forums/20...-engaging.html
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post #8 of 11 Old 09-15-2018, 07:42 PM
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If the gap at the clutch plate is too large, the solenoid may not have enough force to pull the clutch in.
Check the clutch relay, fuse and clutch solenoid. If they are all good, check the clutch gap.
The easiest way to check these components is to use bi-directional scanner to send a command to energize clutch solenoid. But bi-directional scanner is expensive. It will cut down your troubleshooting time.

Check the high and low side pressure switches.
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post #9 of 11 Old 09-19-2018, 09:32 AM Thread Starter
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Read post number 4. Click on HAC-48 in the post, and it will take you to a PDF file which is the shop manual for the ac system.

https://www.nissanclub.com/forums/20...-engaging.html
Thank you very much for this! I followed that exactly.

Found out the connector at the AC compressor clutch was bad, I would wiggle the wire and the clutch would engage. Tried using some electrical cleaner to clean it. Fixed it temporarily, but after driving the wire would move and it would stop engaging. At least I know what the issue is now, so I would just have to get that wiring fixed.

Thanks!

AC issue solved! Case closed.
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post #10 of 11 Old 09-19-2018, 01:13 PM
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Glad it worked out for you...................
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