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post #11 of 17 Old 01-02-2019, 04:35 AM
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You should always disconnect a cable off any battery sitting longer than two weeks. They use power the whole time they sit and why so many die early in cars that do not drive everyday.

The 58% is a red herring and you should get it FULLY charged and a LOADTEST, second time told now, the 58% statement is worthless there.

The starter test variable is about the norm, the number of people that can accurately test starters and alts is low, nobody has enough thinking power to work the testing method and condition of the machine leads figures in there too. I used to test as nobody wanted to learn enough to do it correctly and the same issue in pretty much all stores. The crappy education being the main reason. The test result is only as good as the person who did it. Same with battery testing.

Saying a battery only has 30K miles on it is worthless as well, was that 30K in one year or eight? You see the problem there............batteries rate by TIME used, not mileage.
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post #12 of 17 Old 01-02-2019, 05:57 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
You should always disconnect a cable off any battery sitting longer than two weeks. They use power the whole time they sit and why so many die early in cars that do not drive everyday.

The 58% is a red herring and you should get it FULLY charged and a LOADTEST, second time told now, the 58% statement is worthless there.


Saying a battery only has 30K miles on it is worthless as well, was that 30K in one year or eight? You see the problem there............batteries rate by TIME used, not mileage.
I didnt realize I should have disconnected the battery terminal, dang ok. I went back to pick up my battery and we did a second test on it after charging. He said it came back 100% after being fully charged. So would that mean it's safe to assume the car battery is good? I see what toy mean about the time vs mileage of battery that makes perfect sense.

Thanks for the quick response on this. I'll reinstall the battery on Thursday when I get the new starter. Hoping that with a fully charged battery, and new starter installed, the problem will be solved.
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post #13 of 17 Old 01-02-2019, 08:41 AM
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Sounds like a plan

Last edited by Alan_nc; 01-02-2019 at 12:31 PM.
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post #14 of 17 Old 01-03-2019, 01:41 AM
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(shaking head sadly)............What utter idiots (not any of you of course).

Saying a battery is '100%' is utterly incompetent, even the worst dead battery on earth will show that if you stick a voltmeter on one right after charging it.

Why I said LOADTEST, most bad batteries read perfectly fine in the first several minutes after they have charged. Any moron can say it's good at that time.

You need positive verification that battery was tested UNDER LOAD, and not only that under the exact load specified for that battery and it should match the CCA load rating the car uses. If the battery is tested at too low a CCA number it can pass all day long and still be bed, and the losers that work at parts stores do that all day long, I used to fire them over it and other acts of stupidity.

I would call them back up and ask the exact question I pose here, was the battery loadtested and at the correct CCA? Charging a battery to 100% is worthless if it is bad in such a way that just turning the key on to turn on lights on dash immediately kills the battery back down to 58% again.

Sorry for the rant but I get so sick of incompetency everywhere you turn.............
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post #15 of 17 Old 01-03-2019, 11:52 PM Thread Starter
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The rants are fine by me. I am learning from them lol. I go into Autozone pretty much relying on whoever I speak with to be proficient in whatever I'm there for, within reason. So stuff like this definitely helps me out to be a bit better off next time around.

So then would proper way to have them load test the battery be to bring in my car? Or is it just a matter of ensuring they configured the diagnostic machine properly (pertaining to correct CCA number)?

Another question I had was this: could a malfunctioning battery (like one not performing under load?) cause the bendix gear to only partially extend? Have no clue if that is even a possibility but was wanted to ask...When starter failed the 2nd test at 2nd Autozone, he said it [I]could[I] be the solenoid starting to go out. But I watched the other 2 tests where it passed; gear seemed to extend/retract properly both times.

THanks again for the help. Hoping to pick up starter today.
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post #16 of 17 Old 01-04-2019, 06:14 AM
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Yes to all.................a weak battery only partially slams the solenoid contacts home and then you don't get 100% contact inside solenoid therefor you can't get 100% power to starter. The bendix then only partially shoots out as there is a spring that retracts it working against that throwout motion. Weak power has the spring overriding it.
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post #17 of 17 Old 01-04-2019, 06:47 AM
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Look if you are going to question yourself enough to ask over and over again the same things then some of the problem is you. Not trying to get personal at all but it is what it is. I worked parts for a long time and manager every time I went to one, they typically made me one after a month or so. That is an indicator of the incompetents usually working at the stores, they commonly cannot hold jobs at other places. I worked garage as well so I know what works and what doesn't and much more importantly I always loathed selling extra parts just to get incentives from it and what the parts companies push their employees to do regardless of whether it helps the customer or not.

You don't take hints real well, I basically in so many words questioned how old the battery is and you dropped the ball there, need to know. You should most likely be at getting a second one right now just as I am with my '11. Mine is beginning to slow engage the solenoid, most never catch that as it is so faint, a sign of a battery about to give up.

Battery can be removed and tested out of car, in fact, the way I preferred it, the tester/charger used indoors is commonly much better then the outdoor checker they throw on the cars. The CCA number is commonly on the battery label on battery, or the parts guy can easily research the proper CCA out of his battery catalog if he can read. They commonly guess to avoid opening the catalog up even though it is software. If they can't find a number use 500 CCA.

Make sure battery is properly able to pass the load test and if not get a new one then go to starter if problem continues. The solenoids arc inside every time they connect and even worse when battery is low. That arcing eats away at the internal main contacts to lower the contact area and then the starter begins to not throw on with max power and does things like complained about. Starter being old and all lube run off of sliding parts can do it too and why a simple rebuild using no new parts can have one working for years again. The general public though does not have a clue how to do that and the $150 starters (still only worth maybe $50 real world though) are for them. I haven't bought one in 30 years, I simply redo them at cost nothing and throw them back in the car.
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