2008 TIIDA / VERSA no crank no start - Nissan Versa Forums
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post #1 of 11 Old 12-23-2018, 04:36 AM Thread Starter
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2008 TIIDA / VERSA no crank no start

Hi! I'm new, first post....
I've come into a 2008 Versa, 1.5 litre, Automatic trans. It has several issues I'm trying to work through. It's running on three cylinders, cylinder has compression, no spark, but fuel. Different coil modules same thing. There seems to be no trigger for the number four coil.

It now refuses to start with the key. No crank. If I switch the key to ignition, dash lights up. Lights flash, etc. If I bridge the starter B+ terminal and the signal post on the solenoid, engine starts and runs.

The check engine light comes on. I think that's because the engine has dropped a cylinder, though. I was thinking Neutral Switch but after reading the service manual I'm not so sure. The current path to solenoid S+ involves maybe three computers - ECM, BCM and IPDM E/R AND THE NEUTRAL SWITCH.

A/T Models
Power is supplied at all times
•to starter motor terminal B, and
•through 40A fusible link (letter h , located in the fuse and fusible link box)
•to ignition switch terminal B. With the ignition switch in the START position, power is supplied •from ignition switch terminal ST
•to IPDM E/R terminal 21. With the ignition switch in the ON or START position, power is supplied
•through 10A fuse (No. 54, located in the IPDM E/R)
•to park/neutral position (PNP) switch terminal 1. With the selector lever in the P or N position, power is supplied
•through PNP switch terminal 2
•to IPDM E/R terminal 35. Ground is supplied at all times
•to IPDM E/R terminals 39 and 59
•through body grounds E15 and E24. If the IPDM E/R receives a starter relay request ON signal from the BCM over the CAN communication lines, the IPDM E/R grounds the starter relay and power is supplied
•through terminal 19 of the IPDM E/R
•to terminal S of the starter motor. The starter motor magnetic switch energizes closing the circuit between the battery and the starter motor. The starter motor is case ground through the cylinder block. With power and ground supplied, the starter motor operates.

Based on this information I can probably troubleshoot the problem but I don't know if the info is accurate. Nissan is notorious for cocking up their service manuals. Why would the signal leave the IPDM E/R and return to leave again? I just can't get my head around that one.

I have no scan tools. Any help here would be appreciated.

Last edited by BoogWar; 12-23-2018 at 05:29 AM.
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post #2 of 11 Old 12-24-2018, 12:51 PM
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BoogWar, Welcome to the Forums.

I'm kinda new to the Nissan versa myself, less than 6 months, so hopefully some more experienced members will jump in.

Here are the next 3 things I would do.

1) We know the starter is good judging by your details by jumping the posts, Can you confirm that the crank signal is getting to the starter?
Inspect the wring right around the starter and see if you see any oxidation or "green crusties". It also might not hurt to clean the electrical connection while your there.

2) Does your car come with a Chipped key? If it does, check to see if the security light is still on when the key is in the ignition.

3) See if you can get a scantool. They are relative cheap and they are always handy.

Here is a weird story, i'm sure this isn't your case, but my brother had a Mazda 3. Every 4 years or so, would throw a check engine light and would not allow the car to start until the light was reset. While I don't know what the error was, it was just one of those weird things that seem to happened to his car.
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Last edited by scarecrowdjinn; 12-24-2018 at 01:22 PM.
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post #3 of 11 Old 12-29-2018, 11:34 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply scarecrowdjinn. I don't think my car has an immobiliser but I have no real way of telling. The relay for the starter seems to be clicking with the key though so that's a good sign. I'm gonna find out if the supply to the starter solenoid is getting current. Will let u know tomorrow

Last edited by BoogWar; 12-29-2018 at 11:36 PM. Reason: Mistake in a poster's name
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post #4 of 11 Old 01-03-2019, 02:09 AM
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The VERY FIRST thing anyone should do with an electronic car that is not acting right is to verify 100% that the battery is a KNOWN GOOD ONE and the cables to it have no flaws in them. Even more as the situation changes based on messing with it more. Chasing circuits without doing that preliminary work has cost so many thousands of dollars just in my personal viewing I cannot possibly say.
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post #5 of 11 Old 01-10-2019, 01:56 PM
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Boogwar,
Just checking in to see how things are going.

@amc49 you have a solid point. I think the battery was good because he had started the car by jumping the posts on the starter. Though, he might want to keep the charge topped off on it seeing how the car is now sitting.
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Last edited by scarecrowdjinn; 01-10-2019 at 01:57 PM. Reason: typo
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post #6 of 11 Old 01-10-2019, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BoogWar View Post
Thanks for the reply scarecrowdjinn. I don't think my car has an immobiliser but I have no real way of telling. The relay for the starter seems to be clicking with the key though so that's a good sign. I'm gonna find out if the supply to the starter solenoid is getting current. Will let u know tomorrow
Funny how other posters spend time trying to help somebody with their "immediate" problem, and then the original poster just disappears without letting anybody know if the information they provided helped the problem. Common courtesy dosen't seem too common anymore. Guess we all have a different definition of the phrase "Will let u know tomorrow"!!!!!!
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post #7 of 11 Old 01-12-2019, 01:01 AM
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More like will never let you know at all, even if you fix it they often never tell you.

Funny how much they want to talk when they are trying to get what they want (FREE I might add) then later not even so much as a word back over FREE help that may have saved them thousands.

I've gotten used to much of it....................life in lemmingworld I call it.

Common courtesy??? We are in a Trump world now, that should be the last of your worries. Look at the typical White House response rate to questions, most are now left unanswered. When 75% of what you say is a lie the quickest way to deal with all the loose ends it creates.
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post #8 of 11 Old 01-16-2019, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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Wow. Didn't mean to offend.
I actually haven't solved the problem. I realise that I shouldn't have tacked on a time line to response. For that I apologise. Hopefully no permanent harm has been done. Happy New Year to all.

*EDIT* I realise now that I did not switch on the notification switch so that replies come to my inbox. Again I apologise.

Last edited by BoogWar; 01-17-2019 at 06:45 AM.
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post #9 of 11 Old 01-16-2019, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
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OK. I'm spending a little time with it now. The car has an LCD gear position indicator on the dash, cycles through all the gears fine. I'm thinking that if the Park-Neutral-Position (PNP) switch was faulty, it would show up on that indicator. Usually when that particular switch is bad you can rock the gear selector lever in Park or Neutral and it and it will try and start. NADA. Funny that it won't start in both park and neutral. This doesn't confirm that it's dead but I'm looking elsewhere. I'm reluctant to remove the switch mostly because it looks like a bit of a pain to get to.

The IPDM E/R is my next port of call.

Last edited by BoogWar; 01-17-2019 at 12:08 PM.
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post #10 of 11 Old 01-17-2019, 06:42 AM Thread Starter
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Can some one tell me if there is a program like the Toyota Techstream for Nissan? One that runs on Windows and uses the Mini-VCI J2534 cable and associated protocol? One that you know has been..ahem.. broken to allow a shade tree mech like myself to use it?
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