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post #1 of 8 Old 08-06-2017, 02:44 AM Thread Starter
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Automatic T fluid

Hello guys,

What it is the Automatic transmission fluid for nissan versa 2008 ? Can I use Dexron iv ? It is redline ATF. please advice me.

Many thanks
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post #2 of 8 Old 08-06-2017, 05:11 AM
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Yes, it covers the Matic D spec.
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post #3 of 8 Old 08-06-2017, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks dude for the answer...actually I don't know the old fluid type so should I do fill and drain three times? Is it necessary? And it should be four liters ?
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post #4 of 8 Old 08-07-2017, 11:06 AM
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The 3X method or pumping it out through cooler lines is the only way to change all of it as roughly 50% stays inside trans in the convertor if you only drain the pan.

I myself did not know your fluid spec until I took the initiative to look it up, you might try taking a little more interest in your own well being to do the same.

Not trying to be insulting at all, just the truth of the matter. Look out for yourself more, there are plenty of those who will tell you wrong just to laugh when they cost you bigtime. This planet is getting so screwed up you gotta do that.

Join nicoclub.com for free and your OEM service manual is there for free, can't beat that with a stick......................those manuals are solid gold to those that look out for themselves.
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post #5 of 8 Old 08-08-2017, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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My dear I already have the manual and always read for informations but regarding the transmission there is nothing to get just little info. The purpose of forums is to communicate and help each others. At the end we collect point of views+ our own info and reviewing then at such way we can educate ourselves.

No offense but am here in this forum to learn from others and also to help others with things I know.

Regards
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post #6 of 8 Old 08-08-2017, 10:26 PM
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I thought there was plenty of information in there. But then I eat OEM service manuals for breakfast. If you had the manual why on earth would you let somebody possibly tell you the wrong spec of fluid??? Manual is worthless if you aren't going to use it.

You totally missed what I said about vindictive people giving information. Many try to help with good intentions too but only make things much worse. And never understand what they are doing while doing it. My point here is that if one doesn't even want to look up a simple fluid spec it's all likely downhill from there and I certainly wish you luck with that slide. You are in essence saying you would rather get most of your information by hearsay and that is death in my world. A good 50% of what is in forums is trash. The number of people who really are intelligent enough to truly say is in the majority but they are smart enough to know who they are.

I have never paid for a car repair in my entire life, and any car or motorcycle I buy never sees a dealer or shop ever again. 4 cars on line and running almost 100% of the time for 45+ years now. 30-40 bikes in there of all brands. I have zero use for car warranties. Just switched to Nissan cars from Ford for 30 years and they are tinkertoys to me, the CVTs will be actually easier to rebuild by far as compared to standard ATX which I've done for years. I worked on CVT type drives in industry for many years too. Those will be easy if I can just find parts for them. Motors rebuilt by me? Countless of all types. I do everything that can be done on a car at usually 1/10th the price it costs most. Often so much less than that it'll take your breath away. I often repair the broken parts to use them over as well, and often they then last longer than the OEM one did. Not hard at all.

I too take in all I can and from sites like this but the vast majority of it gets stuck in a 'maybe' folder as I junk 100% of all hearsay or 'advice' instantly if I find otherwise in the technical manuals and I am smart enough to weed out the bullsh-t in about 2 seconds, regardless of where it comes from. Some of it even comes from the service manuals but not nearly as much as you will get on a forum.

You should now be seeing what your indirection got you as advice on your evap valve issue, you posted that sound clip so far off the map there was no way to look at your issue correctly and exactly the kind of thing I'm talking about here. That was a competence issue in and of itself, sorry but it is what it is. I say that after being a repair service writer for years among countless other diagnostic jobs. There is a certain extra distance one must go to make issues clear cut over the vagueness of the web and you did not really do that there. You see how everybody leaned toward engine knock based on your soundbite there. That was literally all one could hear in that recording and it could not be separated out from other engine cyclic noises.

Yours and do as you will and certainly no insult intended at all. Just trying to help. Reality though does not care about that at all and neither do the cars, they will do what they do. Reality as well doesn't give spit about forum opinions either. Why I often find myself trying to fix drivers as much as cars but whereas the cars don't strike back the drivers usually do, their skins being much thinner.
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post #7 of 8 Old 08-09-2017, 01:08 AM
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When it comes to an automatic you never really change all the oil, just a fraction of it unless you connect a cooler line hose to a waste bucket and a hose to a fill bucket with fresh fluid and watch the color between the 2 lines til it matches.

That can be a lot of fluid and is why the dealer wants soo much to "flush" your tranny. Plan B is to drain and fill by the drain bolt and fill plug or fill tube. Make sure to clean the drain pliug as it doubles as a magnetic to catch loose metal stuff floating inside.

Some cars use an inline filter to the cooler and when my honda had one I changed it every other engine oil change. Frankly, it seemed changing the tranny fluid on my honda with your engine oil was a good idea.

Now, when it comes to an automatic if it hasnt been changed during a majority of its life and the fluid is black, smelly and the car has over 100 thousand miles, leave it alone. Changing the fluid at that point can cause problems vs help.

In general if the fluid still look red and smells like a chemical smell changing it can help performance and longevity.

As for fluid Id use what the dealer sells unless you know who bottles it for them. I went from honda cvt fluid to eneos for my honda and the fluid was black the next ten thousand miles. Normally its tan when I change and fill it.
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post #8 of 8 Old 08-10-2017, 05:28 AM
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Normal red ATX turns from red to orange then brown and then black, giving anybody with competence plenty of time to change it. I change based on fluid color (at orange) before any certain mileage specs given by the OEM as they have been horrible about jacking them all over the place over the last 40 years. The change will move around depending on how hard the ATX was used. After realizing filter changes are pretty much a waste of time I quit changing those too. I will likely change one in a vehicles' life now.

Still trying to find out what the most common additive is in CVT fluid to know what can interchange but they are getting much better at sewing things like that up to keep the general public from finding it out. All part of the plan...............
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