How to: Install power locks. S Model - Page 3 - Nissan Versa Forums
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post #21 of 23 Old 12-29-2016, 12:47 AM
TKO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lizardversa View Post
The process is pretty much the same for the other doors. You’ll need to remove the kick and inside side panels to run the wires to the rear doors. By inside side panels I mean the panel where your front seat belts run through.

After all the wiring is done you'll need to locate a red and black wire under your dash. Use your wire strippers to remove some sheathing and connect your brain. You want to use your test light to find your ALWAYS ON power.
I have installed the power window motors and door lock actuators in all 4 doors. I fed the wiring to the driver's door through the rubber boot last night. I was unable to take off the inside side panel where the front seat belt runs through; I need to remove this in order to feed the wiring to the rear doors. How do I remove this panel?

Quote:
Originally Posted by infnorm View Post
I'm working on adding power locks to my car and this how-to is super helpful. Thanks for taking the time to do it. I have a couple more questions.

2. Where did you get the red wire? Did you cut into the ignition harness? I was thinking of just using one of these fuse taps Accelevision FT-MICROATC Pre-wired Low Profile Mini Fuse Tap on an unused circuit (like the heated seats or push-to-start) that seem to be giving me constant 13 volts).

3. It would be interesting to see how you routed the wires to the passenger side? Did you run them back on the firewall or on the front part by the panel.

Thanks!
I would also like to know how to feed the wires to the passenger side. I took off two screws that attach the engine hood release and gas tank cover release to the plastic dash paneling but I was unable to remove the paneling itself to be able to feed the wires to the passenger side.

If I am able to remove this paneling, will I be able to see the wires that I need to tap into, such as the red and black wire for the power locks? Supposedly there is a gray ignition wire that I can tap into to obtain a current/power for the window motors:

2012-*Nissan*Versa*Vehicle Wiring Chart and Diagram

2014 Versa Note S Plus, Metallic Blue Paint
Built in July 2013. Bought on September 28, 2013.

Last edited by TKO; 01-11-2017 at 07:06 AM.
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post #22 of 23 Old 12-31-2016, 04:25 AM
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I just bought a 2017 nissan s plus regrettably without power locks. I checked with the service dept to see if it would void the warranty if I installed myself. They said that I should wire it directly to the battery and not to touch the harness at all as it could potentially void major parts of the warranty. They also said that certain parts of the b2b warranty could be voided such as door lock mechanisms and parking lights, but I chose to proceed. I will try to post photos of my progress if i can figure out how to post them.
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post #23 of 23 Old 02-01-2018, 08:22 AM
TKO
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I completed my power windows and door locks installation January last year. I started drafting this report shortly after but didn't get around to finish it until now. I'm sure there are some things that I've missed or that this post could be better organized but I thought it was best to post it now or I may never get around to it.

I installed the power windows and door locks and got them to work! It took a lot of trial and error, going to this how-to thread, reading other how-to sites, watching Youtube videos, and reading the service manual, specifically the Interior section (INT) and the Instrument Panel section (IP).

Quote:
Originally Posted by TKO View Post
I would also like to know how to feed the wires to the passenger side. I took off two screws that attach the engine hood release and gas tank cover release to the plastic dash paneling but I was unable to remove the paneling itself to be able to feed the wires to the passenger side.
I first disconnected the negative terminal from the battery (it may be best to wait at least 10 minutes after disconnecting the battery before beginning work). I was able to remove the lower instrument panel (part #8 in the diagram on page IP-14 in the service manual) by firmly but carefully prying it off. Page IP-24 in the service manual has some instructions on how to remove the lower instrument panel but it is not very detailed. Removing the right side of the lower instrument panel took a bit more force than removing the left side.

I also had to remove the steering column covers (Page IP-17 has instructions on how to remove these), Cluster Lid C (Page IP-22), radio, and lower glove box (Page IP-25). Once I removed those pieces, I was able to feed the wiring to the passenger side (Tip: I attached the ground wiring to one of the knee protector bolts shown in the 1st diagram on page IP-17).

Removing the steering column covers allows access to the ignition switch wiring. I cut maybe 1 inch of the rubber cover for the pink wire and the gray wire (at least I think it was the gray wire), exposing the copper strands. I connected the power door lock wiring to the pink wire copper strands and the power window wiring to the gray wire copper strands. I ended up taking some extra copper wire I had lying around the house to extend the wiring from the power door lock module and power window master switch (installed in the driver's door panel) to the pink and gray wires.

The power door locks connect to the pink ignition wire since the pink wire is a 12-volt constant wire. You'll need constant power to the power door locks to be able to lock and unlock the doors whether the key is in the ignition or not.

The power window motors connect to the gray wire since the gray wire has current only when the key is in the "Engine On" position (i.e. past the "ACC" position). Do not connect the power window motors to the pink wire because the power window switches have a small green LED that is constantly lit. Connecting the power window motors to the pink wire will constantly draw power from the battery due to the green LEDs, even when the engine is off or if the keys are not in the ignition.

Here is a link to a chart of the ignition wiring in a 2012 Versa sedan but this is the same for 2012-present Versa sedans and 2014-present Versa Notes:
2012-*Nissan*Versa*Vehicle Wiring Chart and Diagram

I removed the front and rear kicking plates (Page INT-23) and the dash side finishers (Pg. INT-24) to feed the wiring to the rear doors.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TKO View Post
I have installed the power window motors and door lock actuators in all 4 doors. I fed the wiring to the driver's door through the rubber boot last night. I was unable to take off the inside side panel where the front seat belt runs through; I need to remove this in order to feed the wiring to the rear doors. How do I remove this panel?
The Interior section (INT) in the service manual has instructions on how to remove the seat belt panel (called the Center Pillar Lower Finisher in the service manual) but it was difficult to remove even with the instructions. I used a flathead screwdriver to pull on the panel enough to fit my fingers in and pull on the panel. Still, it was a pain to remove, requiring a lot of force.

The finisher is held to the car with plastic tabs with white plastic clips attached. The clips may fall off the tabs when the panel is pried off the car body; I was able to locate the fallen clips and reattach them to the Center Pillar Lower Finisher. I then unbolted the seat belt retractor/lower anchor to move it out of the way, giving me more room to feed the wires to the rear doors (Page INT-28, Item #1 in the 1st diagram).

As for installing the power window motors to the door, it took some trial and error to find the best position to place them. The motor assembly is quite long (~18-24 inches) so I could not install them straight; I had to bend them in order to install them in the doors. I had to keep the motor as straight as possible while positioning them where they would fit under the door panel. This was not so bad in the front doors since they are long; I was able to position them almost completely straight. The rear doors in the Versa Note are much shorter in length than the front doors so the motor assembly is very curved in the rear doors.

Inside each rear door panel was a large piece of plastic clipped onto the panel. This plastic piece is roughly the shape of a cube, each side about 4-5 inches long. I removed this plastic piece from each rear door because it didn't seem to serve any purpose and to make more space for the power window motor. I don't recall if the front door panels have this plastic piece.

My power door lock kit included only 1 mounting bracket and it was flimsy. I did use it but I also used some extra brackets left over from some furniture I bought from Ikea among other things. The Ikea brackets were in a L-shape so I bent them straight; there is still a crease where the 90-degree bend was as I could not get them perfectly straight but it's good enough.

Feeding the wires through the rubber boot can be a major pain. I used a trick by taking a piece of clear (transparent) rubber tubing, feeding it through the boot and then feeding the wires through the tube. I lubed the rubber tube with Armor All Protectant wipes to make it easier to feed the tube through the boot but any lubricant should do the trick (WD-40, household oil, soap, etc.). I had to feed the wires through the tube one at a time because each wire has a metal tip that is much wider than the wire itself. Here is a YouTube video illustrating this (He uses an opaque, hard, plastic tube instead of my clear, pliable, rubber tube. Either one should work. Also, he left the boot in place while I removed the boot from the door and the car body/frame):


Some words of caution:
-The power door lock kit wiring is tight after feeding it to all 4 doors; they were barely long enough to reach the front and rear passenger-side doors.

-I accidentally cut a few strands of wire in the pink (or gray? I can't remember which one) ignition wire. Luckily the power windows and door locks still work. In the future, I plan to solder the pink and gray copper wires to the power window and door lock wires to repair the cut strands and to ensure a solid connection.

-Connect the power window motor wiring to the gray ignition wire, not the pink wire, to prevent draining the battery.

-The connecting mount connects the door lock actuator rods with the door lock cable with 3 screws. These screws were a real pain to pin the actuator rod and the door lock cable to the connecting mount. I had to move connecting mounts to different doors and re-tighten the screws over and over again as the door lock cable kept slipping under the screws; the door lock cables wouldn't stay attached to the connecting mount. If a connecting mount doesn't work, try another connecting mount and/or screws and use the "faulty" connecting mount/screws on another door.

Sorry I don't have any pictures. I was unable to upload them directly to this forum. If I ever get around to posting pictures on a third-party hosting site, I'll provide the links on this thread. Feel free to reply to this post or to send me a PM if you have any additional questions installing power door locks or windows.

2014 Versa Note S Plus, Metallic Blue Paint
Built in July 2013. Bought on September 28, 2013.

Last edited by TKO; 02-02-2018 at 02:44 PM.
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