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post #1 of 7 Old 09-03-2017, 08:15 AM Thread Starter
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2014 Nissan Versa Note Throttle Sensor

Hey guys, im new to this website and im also new to using forums so forgive me if i put this thread in the wrong place or something. I recently bought my first own car which is the 14' Note SV about a month ago and a half from a used dealership (Yeah, not a smart idea but was on a budget), the car has around 108k miles and it ran fine up until now. About a week ago or two i went over a speed bump just a tad too hard and my check engine came on and my car ended up going into a failsafe mode (correct me if im wrong) ended up not being able to over 45MPH or above 3000RPMs. Went to Autozone said it was my throttle positioning sensor and he gave me the code and what not saying it was low voltage input etc etc. But do you guys know what kind im suppose to get and if its easy to replace it myself? I dont wanna get the wrong one or mess anything up since im new with cars. As of now i temporarily clear the check engine light until i know what to get and where to fix it at, but when it comes back on it tends to do the same thing where i cant exceed those certain MPH or RPM limits and im worried itll do that while im on the highway.
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post #2 of 7 Old 09-06-2017, 07:12 PM
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Hey guys, im new to this website and im also new to using forums so forgive me if i put this thread in the wrong place or something. I recently bought my first own car which is the 14' Note SV about a month ago and a half from a used dealership (Yeah, not a smart idea but was on a budget), the car has around 108k miles and it ran fine up until now. About a week ago or two i went over a speed bump just a tad too hard and my check engine came on and my car ended up going into a failsafe mode (correct me if im wrong) ended up not being able to over 45MPH or above 3000RPMs. Went to Autozone said it was my throttle positioning sensor and he gave me the code and what not saying it was low voltage input etc etc. But do you guys know what kind im suppose to get and if its easy to replace it myself? I dont wanna get the wrong one or mess anything up since im new with cars. As of now i temporarily clear the check engine light until i know what to get and where to fix it at, but when it comes back on it tends to do the same thing where i cant exceed those certain MPH or RPM limits and im worried itll do that while im on the highway.
I would suggest that you get the repair done at a Nissan dealership, or a reputable independent auto repair shop. Without the proper testing equipment to check out the electrical components you might be wasting your time and money trying to figure out what exactly is wrong. Since this is a safety item, the repair needs to be done correctly. Good luck
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post #3 of 7 Old 09-08-2017, 01:26 PM
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Yeah, one thing that I have learned over the years that it's important to get the car to the dealer in cases like this, otherwise it may just be harmful. I used to run everything via my buddy from DSRLeasing back in the days, therefore I have avoided dealers, but now that he lives pretty far away I rather save myself time and money - very often and go straight to the dealer.
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post #4 of 7 Old 09-08-2017, 05:11 PM
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Yeah, one thing that I have learned over the years that it's important to get the car to the dealer in cases like this, otherwise it may just be harmful. I used to run everything via my buddy from DSRLeasing back in the days, therefore I have avoided dealers, but now that he lives pretty far away I rather save myself time and money - very often and go straight to the dealer.
You are 100% correct. Even when you pull a code, many are just generic covering any number of sensors or parts. I just had my cvt transmission replaced under warranty showing Code P0705 which was not specific to any one part. The dealer has the software to dig a little deeper without wasting time changing out parts to find the defective one. Turned out to be the "Flow Control" unit of the transmission which I never heard of before, and Nissan authorized a complete transmission exchange rather than just the repair.
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post #5 of 7 Old 09-09-2017, 02:28 AM
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'Flow control'.....................LOL.

Likely just the valve body...........if so it could have been something as simple as a stuck valve and easily fixed but even the dealers do not have competent enough people to do that now, and why they change entire trans only.

To the OP, the first great car repair lesson to learn is to NEVER let the person pulling your codes tell you himself what part is causing your issue. NEVER.

ALWAYS get that EXACT code yourself or don't post about an issue that it is IMPOSSIBLE to render any judgement on because you failed to do that. I used to read codes for customers and typical of them to misrepresent nearly everything you tell them or if you wanted you could lead them around in a parts buying spree to cost them thousands for nothing. Parts guys get incentives based on how much they sell. I myself always insisted on customer writing the code down while it was right there on the code reader and most people simply wanting another idiot to fix it rather than them would actually put up a hissy fit over what is obviously in their own best interests. Typical of today's DIY'er, he doesn't want to know a thing, only what part to change and usually the start of the disaster that commonly is fixing a car today. Then you give up, take it to the dealer and you often get another disaster all over again.

Codes are descriptors of a PROBLEM or condition, NOT an exact part to change, some codes point at 20 possible parts there.

If hitting the bottom of car on that bump then look underneath for any possible damage, if you struck say a cat under there and the cat has a ceramic brick inside, you break them like pottery and now the exhaust may be stacked solid and plugged. That could certainly do it.
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post #6 of 7 Old 09-13-2017, 06:57 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
'Flow control'.....................LOL.

Likely just the valve body...........if so it could have been something as simple as a stuck valve and easily fixed but even the dealers do not have competent enough people to do that now, and why they change entire trans only.

To the OP, the first great car repair lesson to learn is to NEVER let the person pulling your codes tell you himself what part is causing your issue. NEVER.

ALWAYS get that EXACT code yourself or don't post about an issue that it is IMPOSSIBLE to render any judgement on because you failed to do that. I used to read codes for customers and typical of them to misrepresent nearly everything you tell them or if you wanted you could lead them around in a parts buying spree to cost them thousands for nothing. Parts guys get incentives based on how much they sell. I myself always insisted on customer writing the code down while it was right there on the code reader and most people simply wanting another idiot to fix it rather than them would actually put up a hissy fit over what is obviously in their own best interests. Typical of today's DIY'er, he doesn't want to know a thing, only what part to change and usually the start of the disaster that commonly is fixing a car today. Then you give up, take it to the dealer and you often get another disaster all over again.

Codes are descriptors of a PROBLEM or condition, NOT an exact part to change, some codes point at 20 possible parts there.

If hitting the bottom of car on that bump then look underneath for any possible damage, if you struck say a cat under there and the cat has a ceramic brick inside, you break them like pottery and now the exhaust may be stacked solid and plugged. That could certainly do it.
Okay, thank you everyone for the advice and suggestions. I got that out of my mind on what to do now, now i gotta wonder how much theyre gonna want me to cough up lol. I mean my car sounds fine as far as i can tell, i dont notice any weird noises or kickbacks or shaking. When i went over the speed bump i didnt scrap anything and i checked under the car right after i went over the speed bump. I was considering taking my car to the dealership in the first place but i heard they charge crazy expensive just for a diagnose.
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post #7 of 7 Old 09-13-2017, 09:33 PM
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Your eyes are as good as theirs, crawl up under it and look for anything that seems loose or hanging for no reason. Please jack the car securely and USE JACKSTANDS not just a jack alone.

Get that EXACT code when it shows again and bring it back here.
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