I WANNA AN ALT!!! (I want to rock) - Nissan Versa Forums
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post #1 of 8 Old 09-01-2017, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
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Cool I WANNA AN ALT!!! (I want to rock)

Ill spare you the stupid song, but whats a good brand now days? Also what about reman vs oem?

Its for a 08 honda odyssey 130 amps. Carquest, TYC, ACDELCO, PRO FORM, PURE ENERGY, DENSO and REMY? I normally go to rockauto, but am leaning towards advance auto since it has a lifetime warranty and Ive had electrical or charging issues. Ironically the advance auto site recommends a Chevrolet Performance alt.

Thx.
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post #2 of 8 Old 09-02-2017, 07:16 AM
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You may well be entering no man's land if they are anything like the Ford ones. Meaning major design issues right off the bat. Depends on what tends to fail in that particular design.

As far as the alts overall, one of the biggest trouble spots there is in hard parts along with starters. When I used to sell them in 2012 they were so bad that roughly 20% of them failed testing right out of the boxes and didn't matter if new or rebuilt. The parts used are generally absolute crap. I had to institute a pretesting program before any new ones went out the door because the problem of starting up to a bad one got so bad. The problem now is only worse.

You need to understand that lifetime warranty really means nothing any longer, it's a scam to the core. Instead of them using quality parts to make long lasting units now they instead use cheap garbage while charging you top dollar, say a $50 alt for $200. Then they proceed to simply give you them over and over free until you get tired of it and ask for your money back to then go to an another loser maker. You pay the massive up front initial charge to then get several and the price reflects that but ALL will be crap, I knew plenty of people who ate 3-4 alts in 2 years after the OEM one died. Any store in-house brand is practically guaranteed crap, as is TYC, Proform, Pure Energy, any other off brands that also make for the better names too. Denso might be a good one, any OEM JAPANESE supplier is a better bet but the norm there will be more expensive too. If more than one level of quality supplied avoid the lower one like the plague, like buying bearings, death lies there. FYI, Dorman if they offer an alt would be the first one to steer clear of, that company makes so much junk yet gets so many sales it's beyond belief. I would judge a full 50% of their product as unuseable junk. Yet today's modern DIYer chooses them all day long. Why I took back thousands of their parts in returns. TYC is right there beside them, garbage.

I saw so many alts of all brands come back in less than a year I could not begin to count and whopping numbers in less than 3 months or even one. I also commonly pulled new ones out of boxes to find them broken right off the bat. Much of it coming from the idiotic return policies the stores now have that let you bring back 100% of what you buy, then the parts get culled to go back and forth from the supply warehouses all day long. I saw countless new parts in boxes so torn up they were falling apart and how things get broken. That is at OTC walk-in parts stores, that lifetime crap is worthless in my view and on my Fords I learned to rebuild them myself at so much more reliable a level that even best of the best super expensive could not touch them for durability. As well, I often fixed them for so little you cannot believe, as low as 50 cents to get years more use out of one. Depends on what was wrong with them.

Some alts are super easy to get to and change, you might make lifetime work there but if the alt is hard to get to and a major job then consider not doing it as you likely WILL be changing more than one. One big reason why I left domestic car brands, the parts simply suck and alts were one of the biggie issues. I have redone maybe 6 of them now (on 3 cars) and likely saved $1000+ just doing that. Hoping the imports do much better in that regard. But if not I will take matters in hand just like with the Fords.

The quality issues there are a SERIOUS problem facing the rebuild industry, China knows we cannot touch them in price and letting the quality go through the floor as a result. What happens when the people who voted our wonderful president in apply that same excellent thinking to demand cheaper part over quality part. I know when you get paid $8/hr. it's an issue but you're only making the hole deeper there.

Same often with many other parts lines, quality has dropped way off what it was say back in the '70s, there is NO comparison at all. Rebuilt hydraulics like brake the same, fail after fail. Electronic parts if they have a cheap line, the lower priced part is usually garbage. The store chains have been forcing large buying consortiums to buy out national brands of all types to then shove through much cheaper crap parts from many multiple suppliers and often you have no idea of who makes any part you buy any longer. Why I always say look at the PART, the box often means NOTHING, what is inside often has nothing to do with what is printed on the box..................

I myself if forced to buy new alt would buy a rock part, if you are going to get a crap one then you need to avoid paying too much for it to begin with.

Lifetime warranty is NOT your friend except on cheaper easy to change parts say ones you know you will be needing more than one of anyway based on how long the supposed 'new' ones last. Like engine mounts, commonly they die way early now as the Chinese have a stranglehold on those too and they don't last, lifetime can pay off there pretty good.

Alts? No way.

Yours and do what you will...................

Last edited by amc49; 09-02-2017 at 07:22 AM.
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post #3 of 8 Old 09-02-2017, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I was going to use the tester they had to test the new one before installation. I test most stuff anyway before installation like t stats so I do not waste my time or chase a problem.

Price wise its like 20 bucks diff between rock and advance. Last time I went to cash in on the "lifetime" warranty at advance I was only allowed one replacement. They said it was for the "lifetime" of the product you purchase and replacements do not get a warranty.

Ive never rebuilt an alt, but have a few starters. Only thing Ive done to alts is replace the brush holder that included new brushes.

I see the price of a 130 amp rebuilt alt from mechman alts is the same price as rock and advance, but they claim 6 diodes, square wire, etc, etc, etc. If I want MORE POWER thats another 100 bucks on top of the price, but I think a "good" 130 amper will or should easy handle the job if its operating at 90% of its capacity.

Yes, Dorman is everywhere, even hybrid car batteries.
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post #4 of 8 Old 09-03-2017, 01:33 AM
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'They said it was for the "lifetime" of the product you purchase and replacements do not get a warranty.'

READ your warranty; it will spell that out for you. Past that, insult the person who tells you that and ask just what IS the lifetime of a part, ANY part. Ask him for the book that shows that. Or even better, the COMPANY OFFICIAL POLICY that says that. Watch them crash and burn....................simply DO NOT accept that stuff even if it is a store manager. They OVERCHARGED you based on that lifetime thing and you have to make it stick to get back to any idea of being fair there. RULE #1 ...............the louder you get with other customers in the store the more you get. Most employees of those chains get ripped hard by management after an event like that even if the customer was ONE HUNDRED PERCENT WRONG there. Writeups galore over it. BTDT.

I screamed the whole time I was there about how they had to curb that abuse in some fashion and that may be one way to do it but highly likely they are actually lying to you and why you choke them with the actual fine print.

NEVER accept what they tell you at the stores, the same store down the block will treat you 100% different there, NEVER settle with just one store before you give up. Where I was they trained to get you to try to refund full purchase price to customers once they had been through 4 units, but if the customer rejects that they can come in over and over and over. I've just replaced a trans mount for like the 5th time, they change out in 5 minutes and the new parts are crap but why I bought the lifetime warranty. They try to abscond with my receipt when I swap one but I demand it back even if they claim they need it 'for internal store reasons', the receipt is YOURS and proof of purchase.
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post #5 of 8 Old 09-03-2017, 01:49 AM
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Dorman parts are everywhere because they are cheap Chinese crap. Do not buy anything made of plastic or rubber, the Chinese raw materials there are absolutely horrible, the rubber can tear with only one stretching and not totally stretching it out of shape either, the plastics similarly will flex way to easy to not be dimensionally stable. Take turn signal cams, they flex so easy 90% of them do not work even the first time, the plastic simply bends out of the way. I've had rubber balljoint boots that when installed over top of balljoint were split in two the next morning.

Dude, get one thing straight....................any alt acting at 90% is dead in a month, none of them are made to load that hard. More like 50-60% fully averaged out, they load hard after a start to pick battery back up then back way off to be in use maybe 20% until you load them with a/c and such and then maybe 40-50%. I can firmly tell you if you max out to 90% all the time you WILL be changing them left and right. There is no regulator on the planet that can handle that much constant heat. The high amp number is only intended for very short periods of time but nobody ever tells you that.

Square wire, more 'tard gimmick crap, you do realize that the closer a wire comes to being square in cross-section that the quicker the windings will short out against each other right? Corners are vibration wear knives.

6 diodes is stone age stuff, nowadays you use 8 or you're stupid, 6 leaves another 10% charging for FREE off the table.
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post #6 of 8 Old 09-03-2017, 03:25 AM Thread Starter
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My bad, 12 diodes 6 fields or something like that. Maybe I should consider one of those rebuilt for wind turbines that use permanent magnets?

Err, 90%load? You know most cars need 15 amps just to idle. Turn the lights on thats another 15 or so amps. Got 4 head lamps and drive with high beams on? 65 watts x2 at 12 volts = another 11 amps. Got AC, rear defroster on? I got 4 head lamps, DRLs, 2 ACs, 2 heaters to name a few electrical loads.

Although Honda says the odyssey will work on 9 volts the VMI people say there wheelchair stuff needs 13 volts or so.

Cars are rather power hungry and I use to drive around with a few deep cycle batteries, an inverter a 120-12 volt adjustable mean well power supply to supplement the cars electrical load to gain 5-7 mpg back when gas was 4 bucks a gallon. I had it adjusted to 14 volts and 30 amps. It frequently cycled with a fan on it due to thermal issues and load as the car is an energy hog.

My sidekick has a 70 amp alt and its not enough to hold the winter load of lights, defroster front and rear, fog lamps, etc. I pick and choose loads watching the brightness of the head lamps. I got a gm replacement alt that puts out 105 amps, but this oem one keeps plugging along.

The odyssey has tons of electrical crap and has like 3 miles of wiring inside it. Fuse panels everywhere from under the hood and 1 at each corner.

Mechman has good reviews and many of the guys who use them for bass have banks of batteries that they do not precharge. Im still gonna precharge the odyssey and continue with the solar panel addition.The square wire seems unique to them. Maybe they are on to something? You know Tesla use to use cone shape coils when he needed a transformer of some sort. They say shape has no effect on it. You got another suggest than the brands Ive already mentioned Im all ears.

Yeah, my first issue with warranty was with an oil filter that leaked at the seam. I told them and they said heres your one time replacement.

Second was a belt I purchased for my riding mower. Returned it chewed up and again they said one time replacement. Year later it too was chewed up and I returned. The computer had remembered I had previously had it replaced and they said no it was 1 replacement.
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post #7 of 8 Old 09-03-2017, 07:06 AM
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Put an amp gauge on the alt output and prepare to get a surprise. Other than right off a start it will be lower than you think, unless as I suspect you are dragging it down.

The car will not work on 9 volts either, that's just silly and I don't care who said it. I saw scads of voltage issues at less than 12 on Hondas when testing them.
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post #8 of 8 Old 04-06-2018, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
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I never did do anything regarding this issue. I have added extra ground wires both small 12 gauge wires and a few 4 gauge battery cables from the car battery area of walmart from the engine to different areas of the engine bay and to the ground of the battery.

I got a 6 led battery/alternator tester that plugs into the cig plug. For a while I drove with the ac on the lowest blower setting to keep all 5 lights lit. If I did not they would go off and on indicating the battery was not fully charged. All 6 lights illuminated means you are over charging. 5 is ok, 4 or less means you got a problem to a "dead" battery.

My fog lamps took a beating and caused me to fail inspection twice, so I removed them in the parking lot to pass. Since Ive removed them I see 5 lamps lit on my indicator and I havent had to plug in the van before driving it to get the wheelchair ramp and knealing system to work.

I do plan to replace the alt and get an aftermarket one like from mechman at a slightly more than the current one. They are about the same price. Seems replacement ones even from the honda dealer are a lottery as they seem to only last up to 80 thousand miles before problems develop.

In my research I did find gas powered battery chargers. I also purchased a flexible 100 watt solar panel and controller with the idea of installing it on the roof behind the sunroof. Ive looked at agm batteries, but seems they are sensitive to abuse and heat as they will cause them to bubble up and melt.

During this ordeal the emergency power for the ramp, kneal and power door died. I plan to get that fixed if not usable with one of those 12 volt lithium jump starters boxes. I had a shop look at it and understand the former owner did some custom wiring so it wasnt something easy to do.
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