OBX Header - Page 5 - Nissan Versa Forums
Product / Company Reviews Purchased an OEM or aftermarket product and liked it? Certain company you like? Discuss it here

User Tag List

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #41 of 47 Old 06-13-2014, 09:22 PM
New Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
How did you guys go about getting your headers installed? As far as doing it yourself or getting it installed at a shop. Also if you installed it yourself what kind of problems did you have and how did you deal with those problems?
super_demario is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #42 of 47 Old 12-19-2014, 12:32 PM
Level I Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Arizona
Posts: 38
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Just installed these headers last week, so I figure ill update this thread.

First things first, its a real PITA to do by yourself in the garage, but yeah its do-able.

Main problem I had was the fitment of the rear O2 sensor. When I snugged the bolts on the header/testpipe flange the wires on the sensor hit the heat shield. Tightening the bolts made it worse. I had to take off the heat shield entirely to torque the bolts all the way..

Fitment with the stock resonator was off too. It lifts the resonator up and causes it to hit the heat shield and thus sounding like horse shit.
(Oh and you will need to buy two 3/8x16 bolts to thread into the test pipe. For some stupid reason they don't include them, and none of the stock bolts will thread in.)

I managed to tweak the exhaust for the time being to not hit anything, but I'm going to weld a new exhaust from the test pipe back to get things sorted permanently.

Check engine light came on after 50 miles (removed cats), I switched from 87 to 89 octane and the code cleared itself and has been off since.

As far as power gains, its all mid range and top end. 3rd defiantly pulls harder and it moves quicker through the 5-6k rpm range in all gears.

I can't comment on sound to much right now as the only thing muffling it is the one stock resonator. Much too loud when you step on it... Like stupid loud. Hilarious really. I should really make a video so you all can get a good laugh before I weld on the rest of the exhaust.
Ryan is offline  
post #43 of 47 Old 12-20-2014, 01:01 AM
Level V Member
 
07Versa6MT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: London, Ontario
Posts: 691
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 127 Post(s)
Garage
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Right, so how does switching octane make a cat efficiency code go away pray tell? Tell me your theory!

Also in a less condescending, more serious tone, what did you notice for gains? Entire range? Response?

Last edited by 07Versa6MT; 12-20-2014 at 01:04 AM.
07Versa6MT is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #44 of 47 Old 12-20-2014, 04:35 PM
Level I Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Arizona
Posts: 38
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
lol tbh it was more of an observation. I'm not entirely sure how the secondary O2 sensor determines when to throw a code or not. I based my statement off my experience of switching fuels then having the code clear on the way home. In this case it could be any number of untested hypotheses

Power wise, low range seems unchanged. But lets say I do a WOT pull for 2nd and 3rd. At about 3.5-4k in second you can feel the torque difference and it will stay constant to red line. Shift to 3rd and the torque will keep pulling and the car gets moving pretty good. 4th is healthy as well but I wont rev it out that far on public roads...

Response in 6th at freeway speed (~70mph) is improved, but I still downshift to 5th if I want to pass quicker.

When downshifting, the revs pick up a little faster, but I think the light weight flywheel would make more of a difference.
Ryan is offline  
post #45 of 47 Old 12-21-2014, 12:17 AM
Level V Member
 
07Versa6MT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: London, Ontario
Posts: 691
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 127 Post(s)
Garage
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Post cat sensor is a conventional narrow band sensor which sees the lean/rich sine wave, except the exhaust composition after the cat will be closer to stoich, so really it's monitoring that sensor for a very minimal swing (lean to rich) since the cat uses oxygen to oxidize the hydrocarbons from rich swings, causing the downstream composition to have less oxygen than the pre-cat mixture. Combine this with programmed values in ECM for the maximum post cat lean/rich variation and you get a code if the sensor feedback is over the threshold. After removing the cats, the sensor sees a switching singal that is too great because there is no post treatment.
07Versa6MT is offline  
post #46 of 47 Old 04-12-2016, 01:06 PM
New Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Orlando
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Now if I get the OBX headers would I need an exhaust as well, Im looking at the DC sports cat-back but just wondering?
gbbiixx02 is offline  
post #47 of 47 Old 04-17-2016, 07:02 PM
Level V Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 440
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
No, it should bolt right up to the oem catalytic converter.
Versa12 is offline  
Reply

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome