[clayworks]

Hey Y'all,
Have a slow crank getting a little longer the last few days. Battery is new and good 12.87V. Went to Advanced Auto for test: Starter test Results - Low Cranking Amps, Voltage: 11.18V, Amps: 0.0A, Time: 890mS.

The little graph shows a start at the left just below 13V, then drops to 9V and rises to the right finishing just below 12V at the end of the graph.

The note below reads: Starter AMP Draw is low with OK Starter Voltage.

The Charging system Test Result says: No Problems: No Load 14.33V, Loaded 14.32V

Drain Test Results: 0.00A Pass

The guy doing the test said he thinks I may need a new starter, but he just started here, and he's not a mechanic.

Can someone make sense of this for me.

Thanks,
Clay

 

[clayworks]

Starts fine after warmed-up. But long crank is getting longer.

 

[versa_gtir]

I agree with the Advanced Auto guy, it sounds like your issue most likely has something to do with the starter. The battery is brand new, voltage is OK, and all other tests came back with positive results aside from the current draw (amperage) to the starter.

Make sure there is nothing that could increase the resistance of the wiring to the starter (this is possible, but unlikely). If nothing else comes up, I feel your best bet is to just replace the starter with a new one.

 

[SlickVersa]

OP, your battery being new and having a good voltage is fine, but unless the battery is tested under the load, you cannot rule it out. From your description, unless I missed it, does not look like it been load tested (only the charging system seems to be load tested). I am not saying your starter is not a culprit, but before starting to swap parts it may worth to spend a bit more effort for additional diagnostics.

 

[clayworks]

I agree with the Advanced Auto guy, it sounds like your issue most likely has something to do with the starter. The battery is brand new, voltage is OK, and all other tests came back with positive results aside from the current draw (amperage) to the starter.

Make sure there is nothing that could increase the resistance of the wiring to the starter (this is possible, but unlikely). If nothing else comes up, I feel your best bet is to just replace the starter with a new one.

Thanks for the input MrDaggs. Apologies for the late reply, I didn't get a notification. I'm gonna do another voltage drop test on the starter. I already did one but one of my clips broke and I was trying to rig some attachments to my meter to read the results solo. From the chicken scratch I wrote on my 1st test I got:

• Fuel pump fuse removed
• Starter terminal B (hot) to ground = Battery Voltage-ish
• (negative lead to) Starter terminal B (Positive lead to) Battery positive while cranking = 0.21 Volts
• (positive lead to) Starter housing (negative lead to) Battery negative while cranking = 0.212 Volts
• (positive lead to) Starter S terminal connector (negative lead to) Battery negative while cranking = Battery Voltage
• (negative lead to) Starter S terminal connector (positive lead to) Battery positive = less than 1 Volt (loaded), = Battery Voltage (no load)

Gonna look for another clip so I can retest.

 

[clayworks]

OP, your battery being new and having a good voltage is fine, but unless the battery is tested under the load, you cannot rule it out. From your description, unless I missed it, does not look like it been load tested (only the charging system seems to be load tested). I am not saying your starter is not a culprit, but before starting to swap parts it may worth to spend a bit more effort for additional diagnostics.

Thanks for the reply SlickVersa. Sorry to get back at you late, I didn't get a notification. The battery is running 14+ Volts loaded.
I'm gonna do another voltage drop test on the starter. I already did one but one of my clips broke and I was trying to rig some attachments to my meter to read the results solo. From the chicken scratch I wrote on my 1st test I got:
Fuel pump fuse removed
Starter terminal B (hot) to ground = Battery Voltage-ish
(negative lead to) Starter terminal B (Positive lead to) Battery positive while cranking = 0.21 Volts
(positive lead to) Starter housing (negative lead to) Battery negative while cranking = 0.212 Volts
(positive lead to) Starter S terminal connector (negative lead to) Battery negative while cranking = Battery Voltage
(negative lead to) Starter S terminal connector (positive lead to) Battery positive = less than 1 Volt (loaded), = Battery Voltage (no load)
Gonna look for another clip so I can retest.

 

[clayworks]

Booooo. Changed the starter. Battery voltage is great under load. Stll long crank at the start of the day. Cranks ok the rest of the day. Help

 

[2016 Versa]

Maybe it's a fuel related problem. The system may be losing pressure and takes awhile for the fuel pump to recover the pressure in the fuel system. Try cycling the key on off a few times before starting to crank the engine. Each time you cycle the key the fuel pump should run and help re-prime the fuel system if that is the problem. One time on another car I owned the fuel pump got weak and until I could get around to changing it if I'd cycle the key a couple times before engaging the starter it would start much easier. How long since your last tune up? Any vacuum leaks? CEL on? Fuel Pressure Regulator May Bleed Off Pressure Overnight : Nissan Versa Engine

 

[clayworks]

Maybe it's a fuel related problem. The system may be losing pressure and takes awhile for the fuel pump to recover the pressure in the fuel system. Try cycling the key on off a few times before starting to crank the engine. Each time you cycle the key the fuel pump should run and help re-prime the fuel system if that is the problem. One time on another car I owned the fuel pump got weak and until I could get around to changing it if I'd cycle the key a couple times before engaging the starter it would start much easier. How long since your last tune up? Any vacuum leaks? CEL on? Fuel Pressure Regulator May Bleed Off Pressure Overnight : Nissan Versa Engine

No CEL on, just noticing the long crank. Only place I checked for vacuum leak was around the throttle body and the connection to the air box using starting fluid. No random tune ups done.
I circled back around to a message which helped prompt me to return to the Factory Service Manual. Section EC-574 Fuel Pressure Test is very helpful. The only problem is, I can't find the part, the Fuel Tube Adapter (KV10118400) that the manual refers to Anywhere. There is only one site that popped-up in Google for that specific part, and it's in the UK. If anyone knows of a store, site or link in the states to find this adapter, please respond. I know there are multiple generic fuel line/fuel tube adapters available from sites like Rockauto, but I don't want to gamble on the size. I already bought the generic fuel pressure test kit from harbor freight, but there is no adapter to tie into the quick connect (female side) once I get it released. I can hose clamp the male side, but need an adapter (that fits) for the female side. I've seen multiple references to the Fuel Tube Adapter in multiple FSMs under both part number KV10118400 & KV10120000, but can't find them anywhere other that some generic UK site (No offense to the UK, but I don't want to pay $30 plus $30 shipping for essentially a piece of fuel pipe with a barb on it, but I do want the right size). As always, thanks to the community, and thanks to Versa_gtir & 2016 Versa. For reference, mine is a MR18DE SL.
Clay

 

[2016 Versa]

No CEL on, just noticing the long crank. Only place I checked for vacuum leak was around the throttle body and the connection to the air box using starting fluid. No random tune ups done.
I circled back around to a message which helped prompt me to return to the Factory Service Manual. Section EC-574 Fuel Pressure Test is very helpful. The only problem is, I can't find the part, the Fuel Tube Adapter (KV10118400) that the manual refers to Anywhere. There is only one site that popped-up in Google for that specific part, and it's in the UK. If anyone knows of a store, site or link in the states to find this adapter, please respond. I know there are multiple generic fuel line/fuel tube adapters available from sites like Rockauto, but I don't want to gamble on the size. I already bought the generic fuel pressure test kit from harbor freight, but there is no adapter to tie into the quick connect (female side) once I get it released. I can hose clamp the male side, but need an adapter (that fits) for the female side. I've seen multiple references to the Fuel Tube Adapter in multiple FSMs under both part number KV10118400 & KV10120000, but can't find them anywhere other that some generic UK site (No offense to the UK, but I don't want to pay $30 plus $30 shipping for essentially a piece of fuel pipe with a barb on it, but I do want the right size). As always, thanks to the community, and thanks to Versa_gtir & 2016 Versa. For reference, mine is a MR18DE SL.
Clay

I;m not sure what kind of adapter you need but could you get the fitting off a Versa in a salvage yard and somehow make what you need?

 

[clayworks]

This is the image of the adapter that I need/ideally want to be able to get my fuel gauge "T" to splice-in at the fuel rail connection.

I;m not sure what kind of adapter you need but could you get the fitting off a Versa in a salvage yard and somehow make what you need?

That sounds like an innovative solution, but given the time and effort, I'd like to avoid having to pull and entire fuel rail off of an old Versa in order to cut off the male connection in order to hose clamp that into the fuel test "T".

It looks like it's just a generic fuel tube with a barb/notch, but everytime I seem to think a generic piece of something will fit, well, I end up with 4 or 5 generic pieces of crap until the right sized one actually fits. Just trying to save time and some trial and error. Or too much jerry-rigging.

I'm almost there, or somewhere. Please help folks. Many thanks for the input!

 

[2016 Versa]

This is the image of the adapter that I need/ideally want to be able to get my fuel gauge "T" to splice-in at the fuel rail connection.

That sounds like an innovative solution, but given the time and effort, I'd like to avoid having to pull and entire fuel rail off of an old Versa in order to cut off the male connection in order to hose clamp that into the fuel test "T". View attachment 17565 View attachment 17566 View attachment 17567 It looks like it's just a generic fuel tube with a barb/notch, but everytime I seem to think a generic piece of something will fit, well, I end up with 4 or 5 generic pieces of crap until the right sized one actually fits. Just trying to save time and some trial and error. Or too much jerry-rigging.

I'm almost there, or somewhere. Please help folks. Many thanks for the input!

I know what you mean about spending lots of time on tearing a junker apart but, that is one way to insure you have what you need. Several years ago I needed to replace the radiator cooling fan motor on one of my cars that had about 350-400K miles on it and couldn't find a direct replacement without paying about $100-$150 for it . I ended up pulling the original motor off and drilling new mounting holes in the mounting bracket for a motor off a newer model car that I was able to buy at the junkyard for $10. I maybe spent an extra 1/2 hour doing it that way but I probably saved better than $100. and ended up driving the car until it had 518K miles without any issues related to the fan.

 

[clayworks]

I know what you mean about spending lots of time on tearing a junker apart but, that is one way to insure you have what you need. Several years ago I needed to replace the radiator cooling fan motor on one of my cars that had about 350-400K miles on it and couldn't find a direct replacement without paying about $100-$150 for it . I ended up pulling the original motor off and drilling new mounting holes in the mounting bracket for a motor off a newer model car that I was able to buy at the junkyard for $10. I maybe spent an extra 1/2 hour doing it that way but I probably saved better than $100. and ended up driving the car until it had 518K miles without any issues related to the fan.

Good point! I'll see what I can find nearby, and hopefully there will be a fuel rail to pull.