Nissan Versa Forums banner

1 - 20 of 32 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I’ve spent a fortune trying to fix this car.
I bought it with 102k and now has 133k
The car ran beautifully,the first 30k
my stepson accidentally washed the key fob and that’s when all the problems started.
We neber used the key to start car until after the incident.
So far I’ve replaced all the sensors twice,the catalytic converter ,1 ignition coil,fuel pump,fuse box
The first mechanic swapped all the sensors,cat and fuse box.then it still turned off.
He advised me to take it to the stealership.
They had it twice and still can’t figure out why it turns off.the dealership replaced the sensors again and replaced the ecm and reprogrammed it.they say it’s still running lean and turning off but can’t figure out why it’s doing it.
I just don’t know what to do anymore.i hate to dump more money in it.bit I will if I can find the cure and get at least 35k more k to offset the expenses.hate to get in debt for another car when this car was running well
Has anyone had this issue and found the problem.
Thanks appreciate all feedback
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
731 Posts
I’ve spent a fortune trying to fix this car.
I bought it with 102k and now has 133k
The car ran beautifully,the first 30k
my stepson accidentally washed the key fob and that’s when all the problems started.
We neber used the key to start car until after the incident.
So far I’ve replaced all the sensors twice,the catalytic converter ,1 ignition coil,fuel pump,fuse box
The first mechanic swapped all the sensors,cat and fuse box.then it still turned off.
He advised me to take it to the stealership.
They had it twice and still can’t figure out why it turns off.the dealership replaced the sensors again and replaced the ecm and reprogrammed it.they say it’s still running lean and turning off but can’t figure out why it’s doing it.
I just don’t know what to do anymore.i hate to dump more money in it.bit I will if I can find the cure and get at least 35k more k to offset the expenses.hate to get in debt for another car when this car was running well
Has anyone had this issue and found the problem.
Thanks appreciate all feedback
I’ve spent a fortune trying to fix this car.
I bought it with 102k and now has 133k
The car ran beautifully,the first 30k
my stepson accidentally washed the key fob and that’s when all the problems started.
We neber used the key to start car until after the incident.
So far I’ve replaced all the sensors twice,the catalytic converter ,1 ignition coil,fuel pump,fuse box
The first mechanic swapped all the sensors,cat and fuse box.then it still turned off.
He advised me to take it to the stealership.
They had it twice and still can’t figure out why it turns off.the dealership replaced the sensors again and replaced the ecm and reprogrammed it.they say it’s still running lean and turning off but can’t figure out why it’s doing it.
I just don’t know what to do anymore.i hate to dump more money in it.bit I will if I can find the cure and get at least 35k more k to offset the expenses.hate to get in debt for another car when this car was running well
Has anyone had this issue and found the problem.
Thanks appreciate all feedback
Only time I had a issue with something like that happening was when I purchased a new Bonneville. The car would run fine for a while, then out of nowhere just shut down out of the blue. Took it to the dealer and after a couple of days, the diagnosed it as the Crank position sensor. Seems that after the engine would heat up for a while the crank sensor would fail, and the engine would shut down. The sensor was replaced, and it never happened again. Good luck!!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
thanks for your input
wish I had more feedback with people who have experience this and found the issue
its common but people stop posting
im not taking back to stealership.theste guy’s are expensive and clueless
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
cabman,

Can you give me a little more details on when the problem occurs?
Is it every time? is it only after the car is warm up, it's only when the car is cold?
What year is the car?

Running lean mean's it's not getting enough air, A few things to try, check your air filter and air filter box, make sure a mouse has not made a home in it.
Take a peak at your Throttle value, is it super dirty? if you can't see light underneath it when it's closed, it might need cleaning. (throttle valve should never be 100% air tight, should be a small gap underneath it.)
Also, a Throttle position relearn might not be a bad idea.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
You are probably right, I interpenetrated that statement as the car's computer was forcing the lean mixture to adapt for the shortage of air.

Hey cabman, any chance you can get the fuel trims from the car?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
@2016 Versa
Yeah, that's what i'm thinking, getting fuel trims from the car would help a ton.
Do you know if Automotive stores can give you fuel trims?, or do they just pull codes? I've never asked about live data.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
cabman,

Can you give me a little more details on when the problem occurs?
Is it every time? is it only after the car is warm up, it's only when the car is cold?
What year is the car?

Running lean mean's it's not getting enough air, A few things to try, check your air filter and air filter box, make sure a mouse has not made a home in it.
Take a peak at your Throttle value, is it super dirty? if you can't see light underneath it when it's closed, it might need cleaning. (throttle valve should never be 100% air tight, should be a small gap underneath it.)
Also, a Throttle position relearn might not be a bad idea.
The car is 2009 Nissan Versa 1.8 with cvt
It happens after car has warmed up.
About 40/50 miles into the drive is when it comes to a stop or slows down it just turns off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Where
@2016 Versa
Could be a vacuum leak which would cause a lean condition and can cause stalling.
Yeah, that's what i'm thinking, getting fuel trims from the car would help a ton.
Do you know if Automotive stores can give you fuel trims?, or do they just pull codes? I've never asked about live data.
I think if it was a vacuum leak the dealership would have found it.
They have no clue why it’s running lean and shutting off
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
You are probably right, I interpenetrated that statement as the car's computer was forcing the lean mixture to adapt for the shortage of air.

Hey cabman, any chance you can get the fuel trims from the car?
Where would I get the fuel trims?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Thanks all for y’all’s input.
Hopefully we get this resolved
It’s been a nightmare
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
168 Posts
@2016 Versa
Yeah, that's what i'm thinking, getting fuel trims from the car would help a ton.
Do you know if Automotive stores can give you fuel trims?, or do they just pull codes? I've never asked about live data.
Most auto parts stores just read codes thinking that will help them sell parts. Have the crank and/or cam sensors been replaced? They can also cause stalling but to my knowledge wouldn't cause a lean condition? How a out the 02 sensors? Do you have any codes? What are they?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
273 Posts
Might look at the throttle body. Could be dirty or needs a re learn.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
Cabman,

Fuel Trims are gotten from the car via a Scantool. Not sure if all Scantools can do it, or just some.

Question, So if the car is warmed up (closed loop), 10 miles down the road, does it occur? or do you have to be around the 40/50 mile mark before it acts up?

If this is a case, I'm guessing you are looking at a heat soak issue. Meaning there a "component" inside the car that gets warmer and warmer as your engine puts out heat over the miles. Then at some point in your trip, the "component" gets too hot, and start to fail because some of the internal parts expanded because of the heat, and there is a lost electrical connection inside the "component".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,329 Posts
It seems to me the attitude of owner is adding greatly to the issue here and why so many whacky conclusions and supposed 'fixes' have been done here. Take this for example.....

'I think if it was a vacuum leak the dealership would have found it.
They have no clue why it’s running lean and shutting off...'

The two things there are antithetical to each other, 'They have no clue' argues hard against them finding it simply by the clash of expectations there.

The things that have been fixed likely were fine or had nothing to do with the problem, which is exacerbated by owner attitude and approach to the problem as modified by dealer reaction to the same.

This all 'started' not with the keyfob getting washed but the apparent thinking that that act is what seemed to make the other things go wrong and impossible, at least to logical thinking people. The crazy on switch just got flipped.

All that work and yet nobody does or even mentions a simple tuneup, which would likely fix the issue. I sincerely doubt all the sensors were changed as well, and changing the ecm just shows either the dealer is the most incompetent or they saw somebody by virtue of the outside presentation (witness post #1) that was ripe to be ripped off to the max.

In short, car probably has something simple wrong with it but it's buried under too much bullsh-t from both directions to ever be seen clearly.

When a car owner accedes to everything the dealers will come up with (most expensive ones first of course) then of course they will choke the pipeline with scads of unnecessary work that does nothing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Let's refrain from calling them all stealerships and clueless. That makes my blood boil.

Does it do this all the time? We're they able to reproduce the problem?

If you are interested in learning some tricks you can pick up a cheap scan tool for around $20 and become an educated consumer. The fuel trim data is in there and can help with the diagnosis.

Without seeing the data, and just going by the symptoms, which is a bad diagnostic path, the mass air sensor is a common issue that can cause your problem. So could a bunch of other thing though...

I never recommend replacing parts without a proper diagnosis though.

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
I'll add that a simple time up is almost never the fix. Those days are gone. Spark plugs last 100k plus and there are no adjustments to make.



Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,329 Posts
So what? Car clearly has enough miles at the mileage and not nearly all the plugs make that 100K mileage limit and I don't care who says they will. I've seen the entire ends of plug burned off or hard arcing down the outsides from oil vapor from misting valvecovers at 60K on 100K plugs more than I can count. In taking the plugs out you can look at the terminal point from coil to plug which often is a problem, and a simple tune up on a modern EFI car better include looking/cleaning if needed at the throttle aircrack and PCV system or again incompetent work. A quick clean of the MAF too. Most dealers though 'want the parts', and prefer workers change rather than fix anything, it makes them more money.

And why is a dealer even thinking of changing the ecm, as it is commonly the LAST part you ever suspect, unless one of the very few car models.that do have problems with them on a regular basis. I for one automatically think crook or airhead when dealers change ecms that quick. They just DO NOT FAIL that often.

'...simple time up is almost never the fix. Those days are gone.'

I assumed the word 'time' was intended to be 'tune' and I absolutely disagree. Cars still run exactly the same way they did 75 years ago, they just have a computer controlling them, the basic physics are still the same. It's thinking things like plugs are not the problem that get one to thinking the ECM is. Kinda silly.

90% of all dies at a stop are ignition related or past that vacuum leak, all other reasons take a back seat if the idle airflow has been verified.

The dealers actually promote SHORTER good running by only fixing the one part they can get to show up at running codes or livedata, they fix that only then let the car go back out with scads of little things still wrong that are guaranteed to make car come back much sooner than it needed to. And most of those things take pennies to address as compared to the parts bought. They have totally lost the value of the 'simple tuneup' as far as to the much greater length it can add to a repair longevity.

Why? It costs them money and they are happy if the car goes out right then appearing to run fine. Tomorrow is another day and another charge.

I have fixed so many fuel injected cars using just the simple tuneup idea I cannot count, you MUST be there to begin to even think about exploring further as the computer can tell you LOTS of things that can be read more than one way.

FYI, I have no formal training in car repair and glad of it. How I fix my cars at pennies on everybody else's hundred dollar bills. I can't think of the last repair I ever did that cost over $50 and that would likely be part of an engine or trans rebuild to get that high.
 
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Top