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There are a lot of theories on the net about when to switch over synthetic oil. Some say not before 10K, some say not before 20K, and some say you can do it whenever. I'm approaching 1,500 miles and regardless, I will be changing my oil.

So, what's everyone running in their engine?
Should I go synthetic now or later?

I would use Mobil 1 Fuel Economy.
 

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There are a lot of theories on the net about when to switch over synthetic oil. Some say not before 10K, some say not before 20K, and some say you can do it whenever. I'm approaching 1,500 miles and regardless, I will be changing my oil.

So, what's everyone running in their engine?
Should I go synthetic now or later?

I would use Mobil 1 Fuel Economy.
I personally changed to synthetic at 7500 miles. Only reason I waited that long is because I got my first oil change done at the dealer.

I say put it in now. As far as using Mobil 1 I think you can save yourself a few bucks and go with a different brand. Valvoline is cheaper and proven to work better. If you want the best get Amsoil or Eneos oil.
 

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Ive been getting synthetic blend oil changes from the dealer since day one. Its been about a yr now, 6000 miles, using mid grade gas. I get about 25mpg in city driving, 1.8liter engine, great performace. But its all in what you want and can afford. I can afford a synthetic blend, and I am very happy with the results. If I get 5yrs out of this car with no problems, well...... Im happy.
 

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that is not a reputable site. Where are the analysis? Who is writing it? If mobil1 is the best synthetic why are they not allowed to even claim it's synthetic in Germany or Japan. Because it's not a true synthetic. I am not denying it's a good oil. But it is on par to to other class III oils like Valvoline Syn power which cost significantly less. And it's not even on the same playing field as class IIII like Eneos, Amsoil or German Castrol.

In the end it's still a great motor oil and if your pockets deep enough use it. It will treat your car right.

edit: Just read that site and even says in there that Amsoil is superior to the mobil1 and even penzoil is. How did they come to pic mobil1 anyway?
 

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Ive been getting synthetic blend oil changes from the dealer since day one. Its been about a yr now, 6000 miles, using mid grade gas. I get about 25mpg in city driving, 1.8liter engine, great performace. But its all in what you want and can afford. I can afford a synthetic blend, and I am very happy with the results. If I get 5yrs out of this car with no problems, well...... Im happy.
You will get 5 years out of using regular dino oil if you are on top of oil changes. I'm going on year 3 of using the cheapest oil possible in my beater car. It's a 92 infiniti g20. Thing runs like a champ. Just have to change the oil when needed and don't stretch it. That car has 160k+ miles.
 

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MPG King!
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Discussion Starter #8
Okay, this is shady... every synthetic oil comparo I've come across so far is an AMSOIL dealer or sponser with AMSOIL splashed across the top...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Through 6 pages of Google searching, almost every website is an AMSOIL dealer or sponsored... the website names are all variations of the same thing.
 

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That is how Amsoil sells it's products. They are very hard to find in stores. YOu can read up at http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/ and look at oil analysis if you want.

Also you can read here about the different grades of oils http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil.

Amsoil is no doubt superior to Mobil1. But is the cost worth it? I ran walmart supertech in my old car and the engine was perfect after 218k turbocharged miles. This is going with 5k miles oil changes. My point is if money is no object and you want the best then mobil1 is not it. If money is an object and you want the best for your money, again mobil1 is not it.

I am in no way saying mobil1 is not good. It's great oil and will make your car last probably forever with the right oil change intervals. I'm just saying so will a cheaper oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
APLPIX:

Because this is the stage where metal shavings and other particles are coming off. Would rather get rid of them now than later. I might wait until 2K miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The best thing you can do for your engine is to change your oil and filter after the first 20 miles. Most of the wearing in process happens immediately, creating a lot of metal in the oil. Plus, the amount of leftover machining chips and other crud left behind in the manufacturing process is simply amazing !! You want to flush that stuff out before it gets recycled and embedded in the transmission gears, and oil pump etc...
 

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The best thing you can do for your engine is to change your oil and filter after the first 20 miles. Most of the wearing in process happens immediately, creating a lot of metal in the oil. Plus, the amount of leftover machining chips and other crud left behind in the manufacturing process is simply amazing !! You want to flush that stuff out before it gets recycled and embedded in the transmission gears, and oil pump etc...
I read a site that said the same thing. Considering your vehicle was driven on the trailer, off the trailer, test driven, driven around the back to get washed, then back out the front to deliver to you, you already missed the break in.

Now engine oil is not going to touch your transmission gears. You would either have CVT fluid, ATF or gear oil depending on your transmission. Now your telling me at not even 1500 miles you are swapping out your transmission fluid too?

Just go by the Nissan recommended oil change interval of 3,750 or 7,500 miles like the manual states. I did my oil at 3,750 for the first one and noticed zero metallic substance.
 

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I called the dealer and they said regular oil and filter is all that's needed, and all 7 oil changes done by them so far have been with regular 5W-30 oil.

That's what we put in her on Monday.

If Chuckie (my parents minivan) can last 14 years on regular oil, no problems mechanically, then I'm not worried about my Versa.
 

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I called the dealer and they said regular oil and filter is all that's needed, and all 7 oil changes done by them so far have been with regular 5W-30 oil.

That's what we put in her on Monday.

If Chuckie (my parents minivan) can last 14 years on regular oil, no problems mechanically, then I'm not worried about my Versa.
Too many variable though. Someone who lives in dusty conditions or does alot of short trip then tries to go with 7500+ mile oil changer intervals on dino oil might not get 14 years of service out of their car. But someone who does alot of highway, always has the car up to temp without alot of short trips and clean environment I bet the engine would show very little wear with 7500+ mile oil changes on dino oil.
 

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That makes sense.

I don't put a lot of kms on my car though, I have just about 32K after 2 years.

Chuckie now has about 180K on him. He rarely gets driven. My dad just checks him out when we take him on long trips. Usually we drive my V or my brother's SE-R when we go out.
 

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There are a lot of theories on the net about when to switch over synthetic oil. Some say not before 10K, some say not before 20K, and some say you can do it whenever. I'm approaching 1,500 miles and regardless, I will be changing my oil.

So, what's everyone running in their engine?
Should I go synthetic now or later?

I would use Mobil 1 Fuel Economy.
If you're going to go by a site for what to use, why use the 3rd best? Get the 1st best.

We switched the Versa at 1k. Used AMsoil first, but now we use Walmart Syn, its a lot cheaper, and it works just as well. Nothing wrong, 47k on the odo now.
 

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my experiences with synthetic, i swear by it. i will switch to synthetic after my next oil change, that will be at 15000kms or so.

i had:
1991 nissan nx 1600 - 451000kms, engine still ran, body rotted. synthetic at 117000kms (when i bought it)
2002 Nissan Spec-v - 275000kms, then the infamous precat failure got me. synthetic at 10000kms

one important thing to remember about synthetic is that it maintains its viscosity, so on cold winter start-ups this is a BIG advantage because the oil gets to the vital parts quicker, it's not mollases at -30, it flows when conventional dyno oil is thick.
i also changed the OIL at 10000kms, BUT the filter every 5000kms still.

k, my 0.02
 
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