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Discussion Starter #1
Hey there,

I recently acquired a 2007 nissan versa hatchback. Its been great up until this last week when I came out to find out the battery was drained.

I noticed that the door ajar light has been coming on and off over the last week as well when going over bumps. I think I've narrowed it down to the hatch. If i slam it closed the light turns off however when I wake up in the morning the lights back on. I figured it would be fine as nothing else was faulty but it seems because it thinks the hatch is open the battery is being drained. Cabin lights arent staying on though so not sure why its draining. Also it will only sound the horn when i press the lock button on the fob if i make sure the hatch is slammed i not it just locks the doors without sounding the horn. Not sure if that info is useful just something i noticed

Any clues on where to start on solving this problem. Im tired of having to boost the car before going to work. (Starts fine after an 8hour shift at work, just doesnt like overnight)

Thanks folks.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also just ran my code reader cause I noticed i have the service engine soon light on. Didnt know that was the same as check engine until now. It was code p0037 which says its HO2S heater control circuit low (bank 1 sensor 2). I messed around with the hatch level when I was out there as well. It seems to be functioning okay. And was turning the light off when i manually clicked it etc. So not sure what else to think. Charged up my battery and got my fingers crossed for tomorrow morning until someone responds with suggestions. Thanks
 

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The rear hatch can trigger the light if it does not come down far enough by being held up too high by the bumpers that keep it from rattling. You might try screwing them in a bit, they are adjustable up and down.

Sensor problem or maybe the harness to it, the one AFTER the converter.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The rear hatch can trigger the light if it does not come down far enough by being held up too high by the bumpers that keep it from rattling. You might try screwing them in a bit, they are adjustable up and down.

Sensor problem or maybe the harness to it, the one AFTER the converter.
Any idea for the trunk if there is a fuse i can unplug to stop the light from running. I dont really use the car for more then a work commute. Or will removing the light bulb itself stop power from being sent and lost? I just dont want to have to boost it for now. Want a quick fix until I have time thos weekend or the next to dig in and solve that and the O2 sensor. Looked at the fuse panel under the drivers kick plate but not too specific. Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I feel stupid. Havent checked the engine bay fuse box yet. Gunna look around now. If anyone has the answer in the meantime though shout it out lol. Thanks

EDIT: FOUND IT. SORRY FOR SPAMMING THIS THREAD!!
 
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