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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is My granddaughter's car. I know very little about it.

2009 Versa S Sedan 1.8L, 110,000 miles. Bought with about 34,000 miles. Nothing but oil changes so far.

The complete exhaust is shot, catylitic converter and all.

I would like a once and done stainless system. And all needed hardware.

I would buy everything seperately if need be.

I haven't found any good recommendations with a lot of searching.

I will need help installing or to find a shop. A guy from Indiana volunteered if timing works out.

Does anybody have a recommendation for a good stainless cat?

A good stainless cat back system?

A complete stainless system - manifold back?

What I need for hardware to install?

Shop recommendations within a couple / few hours of northeast Illinois?

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Does anybody have a recommendation for a good stainless cat back system?

Before I spend another 20 hours searching.

I can't believe with what I have heard about the way these exhaust systems fall apart that I am not getting any results for a stainless system to replace them.

Exhausing it is.
 

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I don't think a direct fit SS full cat-back system exists.

The OEM catalytic converter assembly is made of stainless steel to some degree. All catalytic converter shells are as far as I'm aware or they'd be shot in no time due to the heat they generate.

I feel for you. I had the full cat-back system replaced on our 2015 Versa sedan last year. I believe the shop used a system from Napa. It looks like junk already living in the People's Republic of NY. Cost me $600 for about $250 worth of parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
This is all I have found for cat back stainless so far

I am ordering this cat.


I haven't found a recommended bolt on stainless cat back exhaust yet

I have a tentative list for hardware and hangers

It's obvious the pipes on the cat aren't stainless. LOL.
 

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Looks to be OBD II compliant.

I have bought catalytics from a place called Airtek/ Catco in Hobart, IN. They make all kinds of emissions and exhaust parts.
They are right off of 65 and Ridge. Just something to check out.,
Can't remember any names, but I thought there was 1 or 2 good shops around Mokena-Orland-Tinley.
 

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it will come a time when I'll have to do it too.

I actually found the same system you found on ebay...I'm not sure about overall quality but nissan OEM one seems not very high end (and I took great care of it).

Cat works fine. Please let us know if you find some good options :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I think I am going to order the 2 parts off Amazon.
The hardware I will try to order tomorrow at a dealership. I have a list.

I also have to order hardware for changing the right lower control arm and look into ordering the subframe bushings.

I'm starting to get overwhelmed. I was ok up until the subframe got added to the mix
It seems foolish to save that as a project until later. Maybe we are lucky and it doesn't need those parts yet. It doesn't look like something I am capable of doing myself, anyway. In my current physical state.

Thanks.
 

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I think I am going to order the 2 parts off Amazon.
The hardware I will try to order tomorrow at a dealership. I have a list.

I also have to order hardware for changing the right lower control arm and look into ordering the subframe bushings.

I'm starting to get overwhelmed. I was ok up until the subframe got added to the mix
It seems foolish to save that as a project until later. Maybe we are lucky and it doesn't need those parts yet. It doesn't look like something I am capable of doing myself, anyway. In my current physical state.

Thanks.
the bushings need to be pressed out and replaced with the new ones. But those can wait a little longer than the lower control arms, because if a ball joint goes out while driving....
Hopefully you can wait for the subframe. It's not an easy job, if the car has rust beneath it the bushing might be "welded" to the subframe, you would need a lot of heat and hammering. Also after that it needs to be realligned...

For the lower control arm check Moog brand, I used those two and after 4 years they are still as new.
The right one is the easy one..the driver side is way worse because you have to lift the transmission a bit.

I would love to help you but I live in east Ohio :/
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
the bushings need to be pressed out and replaced with the new ones. But those can wait a little longer than the lower control arms, because if a ball joint goes out while driving....
Hopefully you can wait for the subframe. It's not an easy job, if the car has rust beneath it the bushing might be "welded" to the subframe, you would need a lot of heat and hammering. Also after that it needs to be realligned...

For the lower control arm check Moog brand, I used those two and after 4 years they are still as new.
The right one is the easy one..the driver side is way worse because you have to lift the transmission a bit.

I would love to help you but I live in east Ohio :/
Not long ago, I wouldn't have batted an eye. I just have a litany of health issues and my abilities are severely diminished

I need to have the subframe and bushings checked. I ordered some new bolts for the subframe with the exhaust hardware order.

Going to call and make an appointment at the local dealer for an inspection.

Parts won't be here until next week.
 

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I have a magnaflow cat on my ‘15 and an hks exhaust. I’ve been wanting to remove that resonator at a trusted shop for more oomf. I just want a stainless pipe from the cat to the axle back. Just so you know. The cat will increase the sound inside behind the fire wall. Sounds great!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I have a magnaflow cat on my ‘15 and an hks exhaust. I’ve been wanting to remove that resonator at a trusted shop for more oomf. I just want a stainless pipe from the cat to the axle back. Just so you know. The cat will increase the sound inside behind the fire wall. Sounds great!
What is a hks exhaust?
Is HKS Stainless?
 
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