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I'll add that usually there is a code accompanying this issue. I can't remember which one but it's a high idle code of some sort. I know it gets set when the idle is +/-100 rpms from target. Or there could possibly be a p0101 maf sen circuit code.

If you have a scan tool, I'd try it again, or see what your fuel trims are with it.

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I've never tried the relearns manually, only with scan tool, so I don't know how you would know if you did them right.

I wouldn't worry about memory retention, but since the battery was just replaced, I would be 100% sure that the terminals are very clean and tight. I just had this happen to me last week where I just cl abed and tightened terminals and the truck was acting weird afterwards. Either not starting or dying. I recleaned and fitted them and reconnected and it fixed it.

The scan tool will show if your mixture is good. I think the questions are, is the mixture good, is it the load that's stalling it or is the engine rocking in gear disrupting a connection, possible torque converter issue?

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I've never tried the relearns manually, only with scan tool, so I don't know how you would know if you did them right.

I wouldn't worry about memory retention, but since the battery was just replaced, I would be 100% sure that the terminals are very clean and tight. I just had this happen to me last week where I just cl abed and tightened terminals and the truck was acting weird afterwards. Either not starting or dying. I recleaned and fitted them and reconnected and it fixed it.

The scan tool will show if your mixture is good. I think the questions are, is the mixture good, is it the load that's stalling it or is the engine rocking in gear disrupting a connection, possible torque converter issue?

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I'd be hesitant to put a maf sensor in it without some data. $30 sounds like a really cheap one, that may be fine, but it's rolling the dice with these things.

If you get a scan tool that can read live data ($15), you be able to tell a lot more. For example, if the sensor is dirty (which they almost never are on Nissan's), if you have a vacuum leak, or fuel delivery issue. If the shop is willing to fire one into it without diagnosing it, I'd bring it somewhere else.

It doesn't work on all cars, but seems to work well on these usually, if you unplug the MAF and it runs better, it's a indication that it could be the sensor.

Fuel trim data is critical for diagnosis on modern vehicles. Matt from Schrodinger's Box on youtube probably has the best video on them out there, in a way most can understand.

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I wouldn't chase the g sensor. If it stalls when you take it out of park, I would believe the torque converter 100%. If you had a scan tool that could communicate with the transmission you may be able to see it happening in the data, but so far my money is on the TC.

Does it happen constantly?

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Those bulletins probably only apply if there are no driveability issues, which you have. Search for a local diagnostic tech that works mobile or bring it to the dealer. I'd put the old MAF back in it or they might want to replace the cheap one with a factory one, which probably still won't fix it, but when a car comes in with a bunch of new parts, I dont want to wonder if the new stuff is bad too.
 
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