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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I have a 2012 versa hatchback with the 1.8. Drove fine and when I parked it and came out next day, the car does not want to start. It cranks, just won’t turn over. I’ve read as much as I could on the subject and I get mixed opinions. Check engine light is on and reading cylinder 4 misfire and also a rich bank code, p0304 and p0172. I noticed in misfire videos that their cars are still running, just very poorly. When mine was running last, it didn’t run poorly or seem like it was misfiring. I had the car running at idle for an hour when check engine light came on. After no start happened next day, My first thought was check coil and plug on number 4 and if that looks fine then check fuel pressure. I’m not a mechanic by any means but I know a little bit. I’d rather not try to splice into fuel lines if not necessary, but if I don’t test fuel then I’m stumped as to where to start at next instead. Any opinions or help would be greatly appreciated!!!
 

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I am in a very similar situation with my 2012 and 1.6. All of the sudden it just cranks and won’t start. Actually sputtered and died the first time but nothing since. The cheapie OBD reader says “no DTCs” so I checked fuel pressure. Disconnect fuel pump fuse and crank engine (1min?) to relieve pressure. Lift off rear seat cushion, pull off cover to get access to top of tank. Remove quick connect (use rags to catch fuel spillage+caution) and clamp a piece of 3/8 fuel line onto the nipple with a 100psi gauge on the other end. Reinstall fuse and crank, you should have around 50psi. Mine does have 50psi? so all I know now is check for spark and then start throwing parts at it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I am in a very similar situation with my 2012 and 1.6. All of the sudden it just cranks and won’t start. Actually sputtered and died the first time but nothing since. The cheapie OBD reader says “no DTCs” so I checked fuel pressure. Disconnect fuel pump fuse and crank engine (1min?) to relieve pressure. Lift off rear seat cushion, pull off cover to get access to top of tank. Remove quick connect (use rags to catch fuel spillage+caution) and clamp a piece of 3/8 fuel line onto the nipple with a 100psi gauge on the other end. Reinstall fuse and crank, you should have around 50psi. Mine does have 50psi? so all I know now is check for spark and then start throwing parts at it.
I have an inline spark tester and since number 4 is only coil that is exposed, I will start testing there. If spark is good I will try fuel pressure test I guess. I appreciate the advice for how to test pressure. I will update this thread when I find out what’s going on. Please let me know what you find with yours as well as this seems to be a consistent issue with these cars and very little advice on the subject.
 

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I'd probably go after that rich code since that can cause the misfire too. With the key on engine off what does your coolant temp sensor read? It should be within 5* of ambient.

Rich conditions can be cause by bad engine coolant temp sensors, high fuel pressure (unlikely), leaking injectors, timing (unlikely without a code), mass air sensor.

Try holding your floor to the floor whole cranking to get any fuel out of the cylinders, then try starting it with the maf unplugged. Don't try cleaning the sensor, a dirty sensor would cause a lean condition, not rich.

Clear the codes since a hard misfire can disable fuel injectors to protect the converter.





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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I appreciate the advice. Mine doesn’t have a temp gauge on the dash so I have no idea when it’s running at ambient or not. Is there some other way to test the temp sensor? I’ll have to search where the maf is located. I also did not clear the codes as I did not know how to on the rental odb reader that I used, it was a weird one from autozone
 

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You can see what the ECM is seeing from the temp sensor with a scan tool that can read live data.

The maf sensor is on too of the intake tube. If you follow the air box where the filter is, you'll see it. Maybe google a pic.

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Today we finally had a decently warm day so I went outside and tried a few things that were recommended. Still won’t start, even with check engine codes cleared, gas pedal to the floor and maf unplugged. Hooked up a spark tester to coil 4 and inline tester lit up while firing. I’m assuming that means I’m getting spark. Pulled maf sensor out to see if anything obvious was in there and it looked fine, although I guess that doesn’t mean it’s necessarily good. No check engine light other than rich code so I’m going to assume maf sensor is good still. Any advice on where to check next?
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Yes, you have spark. did you clear the codes and just the rich code came back? This could be a clue since it shouldn't even know if it's rich if it didn't start running. Did you check the ecm coolant temp sensor with the scan tool? Usually maf failures cause lean conditions, but not always. So many things can cause a cranking no start.

Even really rich cars usually at least try to start when you hold the pedal to the floor. Not the first time you try cranking it, because this disables the injectors. You do this after it doesn't start normally, it's call clear flood mode.

Before you clear the codes, there is a section in the scan tool called freeze frame data (FFD). It takes a snap shot of data when the code sets. See what's in there for coolant temp, rpm, vehicle speed, long term fuel trim, short term fuel trim. It will also say what code that info is related to.

After you get the above info, you can clear the codes, try starting it a few times and see if any are stored again. Avoid changing any parts on a vehicle based on the name in a code.

You can try spraying some brake cleaner into the intake boot and see if it tries to start to tell if you are missing fuel. It's possible that the rich code is old. That'll save you from doing a fuel pressure test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Here’s all of the original info I have. I just went back out to read codes again and I must have erased all of that because it’s not showing it anymore. Hope this helps!!
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just went outside and checked again. I think I erased all of that earlier 😩 because it’s not giving me anything other than two codes now. One is new but it’s from when I unplugged a sensor when testing the spark, other is the same rich code.
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I'd be ok ruling out any spark issues for now with that. Yes, that looks like the ffd. Let's see what it says for LTFT, ECT, RPM, A/F sensor (might be called something else, but it will have a voltage unit. I like that you are going through with the tests. Diagnosis is just time well spent if you want to save money.

So those codes returned after you cleared them and the car still has not started?

With the engine cold now, it would be good to go into the data stream, or live data, data monitor mode, whatever they call it, and see what the IAT and ECT say. They should be within a few degrees of each other, and the ambient temp outside.

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I ended up buying a $40 scanner from harbor freight, I don’t think the model I have does live stuff like you’re talking about. The code for the air intake is new but I also had a sensor on the intake unplugged while cranking for spark test. Rich code returned after clearing. I also noticed one code says stored and one says permanent, not sure if that matters. Do I need to go rent a better scanner again?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
and yes I want to be thorough with diagnosing and agree that taking the time to do it will save me in long run plus I’m learning a bit. I’m no mechanic by far but I’ve always done as much repairs myself as possible and use common sense often with my cars. For some reason this Nissan is baffling me. I really appreciate your input and taking the time to respond when it’s not your problem to worry about.
 

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No problem!

If the one you bought is the small one with two buttons then it doesn't have the live data function. If you go on amazon or ebay and search bluetooth obd2 dongle, pick the cheapest one with good reviews then download an obd2 app on your phone like torque pro for $5 and you'll have about $15 into a set up that does quite a bit. Live data with graphing is ideal, which that would get you. Do you have a multimeter? Any one besides that free red one at harbor freight.

The air intake temp code would definitely set if you unplugged the maf while cranking. Permanent status codes don't clear until the problem is actually fixed and the ecm runs it's tests to determine its all good and I see that's the rich code. I see that the rear o2 sensor was reading lean when the rich code set, which is interesting. Let's ignore the rich code for now since it shouldn't be preventing the car from starting. It might just be a red herring here.

Try the brake cleaner or some other alt fuel source in the intake. I don't like using starting fluid because I know people who have been burned by it even infighting without spark leading them in the wrong direction. Brake cleaner will work. Does it sound like it's trying to start at all when you are cranking it?




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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I’ll look into the scanner app. When I spray brake cleaner, am I spraying it at the throttle body where the silver flap is? I remove the rubber boot going to intake and that’s what I see. Do I lift that flap and spray some inside of there? The car sounds like it’s trying to start in my opinion. I crank on it and it seems like it wants to fire but just doesn’t. Once you let me know if I’m spraying brake cleaner in the right place I will try that and let you know. I don’t have a voltage meter other than the free harbor freight special. What were you thinking of having me check with it?
 

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You don't have to touch the throttle plate, just do a quick couple of toots of spray in the direction of the throttle and quickly jump in and try to start it. The atomized chemical will get sucked in as a fuel source and try to start if the issue is no fuel.

That scan tool should read live data.

That little meter will work, it's just the only one I've ever seen that seemed to give me wrong numbers once, ha. We might check a couple of connectors at some point with it.

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Okay I have to leave for work shortly but as soon as I get free time I will try the fluid in the intake and see what happens. I’ll write back as soon as possible
 
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