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Discussion Starter #1
My 2013 SL sedan heater never gets hot. Warm at best. The fan blows well at all speeds. The hot/cold dial is a bit difficult to turn at about the half way mark. Run the car until the temperature gauge is in the mid range. Still not blowing hot air! Any suggestions on what to look at?

Maybe it’s becaise the car spent the first 5 years of its life in Arizona and it doesn’t know what to do when not using the AC mode. Only 37,800 miles on this car.
 

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The heat core may be plugged with particles in the anti-freeze.
The quickest way to get heat back temporary is to switch the 2 anti-freeze hoses going in/out the heat-core under the dash. This is a reverse flush the heat core.
But the particles are still suspended in your antifreeze. This is a temporary fix until you have time to flush your heat core and replace your antifreeze.
My cousin had done this on a Dodge Nitro and got heat right away. He also switched the hoses on the Monte Carlo SS and get some heat back. But not too hot. At least hot enough to prevent the windshield from fogging up on a cold day.
 

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Stat may not be closing all the way to overcool the engine.

Many cars used to have heater control valves that cut off heater core flow and those tended to clog up. Modern often have full flow at all times with no heater control valve at all, and those are much more resistant to the core clogging up. Those instead open an air door to the heater core in the HVAC box, too cool could have that door not opening up 100%.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
It was suggested to me by a local mechanic to “check the heater control valve.” My question is, where is the heater control valve on this car. It was easy to do on vehicles of the 60s and 70s, but I am not sure where to even look on these new cars.
He suggested this because the temperature adjust knob is difficult to turn at the half way mark where the temperature should get warm. He thought maybe it is corroded since it was previously always on the coolest setting.
Thanks for any help you can offer.
 

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No heater control valve, the core is constant flow like said.

Heater uses an air mix control and the cable comes off the temperature dial, the extra load you feel is the action of the cable, at first it operates one air door then later in the dial movement it also operates another to make two moving, you feel the difference in that. One door controls the amount of heater air, the other thinking puts the air down low for feet or high for defrost, or closes off a/c. Compound action there.

Possible sticking door at heater too, they seal the door edges with stick-on foam and sometimes in the heat the foam degrades to let the gum sealer ooze through the foam in a gummy mess, then the door can be almost impossible to open when it sticks shut due to the 'glue' on it. Fords had hell with that and the cables broke all the time trying to open the door for more heat.
 
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