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My fuel pump died today and I went to replace it.

I took the seat off and then there was this...
17402


It looks like it was glued/sealed shut.

I really don't want to spend a grand on a 10k car. I was hoping I could fix this myself but it looks like they made it difficult to repair on purpose.

Please advise on how to open this up?
 

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Carefully pry the cover off with a preferably plastic pry tool.
 

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' And how do I reseal it? '

Seriously, if you have to ask that question you are better off not touching it.

If they have chosen to use polyurethane to seal that then it may be harder to get off than you think. A plastic cutting tool won't touch that. Razor knife and don't cut your fingers off, the force needed may well be high.

If glued with ordinary silicone it will be easier to get off.

The method used there is to intimidate people into going to the dealer instead.

Hope somebody has at least checked fuses and changed a pump relay before going that far. Provided the issue even IS the pump, so often it isn't.
 

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My fuel pump died today and I went to replace it.

I took the seat off and then there was this... View attachment 17402

It looks like it was glued/sealed shut.

I really don't want to spend a grand on a 10k car. I was hoping I could fix this myself but it looks like they made it difficult to repair on purpose.

Please advise on how to open this up?
Ok you see those 3 tabs on plate take a small flat head or Phillips screw driver and twist it until it lines up with the hole in plate then take ya a putty knife to cut the foam or silicone under lid set UT to the side and it takes about 20-30 minutes to change out the pump assy. I just got done with my 2012 versa it's the easiest one I've ever changed n I've changed quiet a few I got my pump assy from rock auto parts for less than 75.00$ that included shipping n handling hopefully this will help ya out, it's easy as 123. Mike Sr.
 

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Yah, it's always funny when some wonk tells you 'how to do it' on what is obviously not the same setup the pics show.
 

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Good grief!
You'd like to think it's not sealed in place with something stronger than the cover. What a mess that would be. Of course the FSM states to "remove rear seat and remove inspection cover". LOL.

OP, I do like your optimism with your 10 grand car comment. My pretty much immaculate 2015 with 47K miles on it is barely worth $5K.
 

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What tabs, I see nothing on that plate at all.
Ok when u pull up the back seat u should be looking at a plate w/3 white plastic slotted tabs push down n turn the tabs 1/4- 1/2 turn then lift the plate n there's yur fuel pump assy.
17403
15801232456161269884353574239514.jpg
 

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This looks like another conspiracy from the manufacturer to bring more business to the dealers. Next time I'm at a Pull-A-Part if they have a newer Versa I think I'll see how hard it is to remove that cover. At the price these pumps cost new I was thinking about buying a used one from Pull-A-Part anyway if they had one so I could have it on standby. I can buy a used one there for under $30. Quite a savings when you consider the price of a new one. If I recall correctly when I checked Rock Auto awhile back the cheapest thing they had was well over $300 and I think I've read Nissan wants something like $800 for one. If I get one at Pull-A-Part I'll take pump, cover and all. I don't think RTV is gas resistant so who knows what they might have used.
 

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Doesn't have to be gas resistant at that point, there is zero (or better be, it would be a fuel leak if so!) fuel at that point, simply a cover on top of the real cover which seals the tank.

When you watch the evolution of car design as I have you learn to expect slight differences even in the same year models, often there is more than one vendor of parts and many designs are not exactly the same. I accept changes on the run, you just have to have enough knowledge to know if one will work on something else. One of the things that used to drive me crazy when in parts was people who refused to buy a part made by another maker because it looked slightly different to not 'be the same'. The customers simply freak out and won't buy the part even though it is identical in the way they fit and work. Then I would freak out and usually say something I shouldn't like that was why they sent us to school to be able to think out that the part would still work and why I got complaints from customers to territory managers from time to time. Then you have to go further to insult the TM next by telling him if the chain wants to sell f-cking parts they should buy those that look the same or STFU! I was continually in hot water over stuff like that. Fun.

There is a hard fast rule of junkyard parts.............some are dependable as h-ll and others you are asking for it using junkyard part. I view fuel pumps as closer to the latter. IF you spring for one make sure YOU yourself pick it, some yards pick the parts themselves and will not let you and pump is the wrong part to buy at that yard. If you do not like the way it looks then they expect cash just for having to yank it and the problems start. In the yard if they use ethanol in your local fuel then the pumps are often bad as the car sitting and commonly with the evap system compromised since people have been cutting hoses here and there to open it up. That lets tank breathe and then the pump goes bad in a week or two when the impeller rusts stuck to not work. Or worse, it works but erratic and stops and starts to drive you nuts. If I pull one myself I look for one that has already been changed and it must look new coming out (you MUST take the module APART!) and the impeller must turn with sticking pointed object in to turn it. Do NOT hook it up to power to run it, the worst thing you can do, they can tear up in seconds running dry after sitting dry.

I was roaming through post-'11 fuel pumps at Rock the other day myself and noted the difference in 1.6 and 1.8 pump prices and wondering what the real difference is. Maybe nothing but the fact they want to gouge you. I would compare the pressure both systems need and if the same then start looking at pumps really close, it may be that they may interchange if the design seems to be the same or close. Who cares if the pump is correct if it runs eh? Wouldn't be the first time I've broken that rule to run car for years on the 'wrong' part. I learned to use the entire 10 year period of YDS series Yamaha motorcycles to find parts when the original 305 twin parts became NLA because it was so low in production numbers, most 250 parts fit the same way and worked fine. That was 50 years ago.
 
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