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Just wondering how many miles people are at with the 1.6? I keep seeing mixed info that this engine is crap and had rod knock but also seeing reviews of people at 150k and it's still solid??? Is it a good engine or bad? Anyone get to 200k?
 

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2015 Nissan Versa Note
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67,000ish

just issues with a bit of a shake when stopped at lights. Usually depressing the brake pedal stops it. I read that it may be the motor mounts.
I have a warranty forever program on the car so anything power train wise I’m covered just as long as my upgrades don’t cause any damage.
 

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Some of the 1.6's last a long time and some develope piston slap at low mileage. My '16 has 24,xxx miles. I bought it in Feb. 2019 with a rebuilt title and 10,546 miles. Thus far no problems with it. Mine has a CVT and I'm more concerned about the issues with these transmissions than I am engine problems. At least the class action law suit increased my warranty on the transmission from 5/60-7/84.
 

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2018 Versa, just short of 40,000 miles, manual transmission. Engine runs and sounds fine, but there has been noticeable power loss already. There is a long hill just outside of town that the car use to be able to maintain 70 mph on in 5th, without AC on. Now I have to downshift to 4th if I want to maintain hwy speed, or just let her slow to 60~.
 

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I just passed 90,000 on my 2015 1.6L last night. Still purring like a kitten. Like BooBerry's Note, I also have a shudder at red lights, but mine goes away if you shift into neutral or when the A/C compressor kicks in and idles the engine up. Beyond that, I replaced and retensioned the belt 6 months ago to get rid of a squeal, but haven't done anything to the engine other than routine oil changes and air filters. The front suspension is another story.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I just passed 90,000 on my 2015 1.6L last night. Still purring like a kitten. Like BooBerry's Note, I also have a shudder at red lights, but mine goes away if you shift into neutral or when the A/C compressor kicks in and idles the engine up. Beyond that, I replaced and retensioned the belt 6 months ago to get rid of a squeal, but haven't done anything to the engine other than routine oil changes and air filters. The front suspension is another story.
Thank your so much for your post. I've been wanting to see someone has more mileage than we do. Do you think the idle surge is from the ac compressor turning on and off while your at the light? I know my Mazda does this so the ac does not get too cold, it shuts the compressor off for a few seconds but when the compressor engages again it makes the idle surge down a little then recovers.
 

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Thank your so much for your post. I've been wanting to see someone has more mileage than we do. Do you think the idle surge is from the ac compressor turning on and off while your at the light? I know my Mazda does this so the ac does not get too cold, it shuts the compressor off for a few seconds but when the compressor engages again it makes the idle surge down a little then recovers.
Oh I forgot to ask what you've had to do with the suspension? Already I've seen the control arm bushings are bad, bad ball joints, it sounds like bad motor mounts and my front axle nuts were loose. Kind of scary. Retorqued them to 183 ft/lbs.
 

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On the idle shudder, it shudders whenever the revs get down below 800 rpm, whether the A/C is on or off. Could be engine mounts, but I wonder if the transmission isn't fully disengaging while at a stop.

On the front suspension, I've had to replace just about every rubber piece on it. Within the past year, I've replaced the control arms, sway bar links, front struts and mounts, and driver side CV axle. The sway bar links didn't have to be done, but I was already in there, so I just went ahead and replaced them.
 

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I do have a CVT. The driver side busted a boot on me back in December. There is hardly no room to get a slide hammer in there, either.
 

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Some of the 1.6's last a long time and some develope piston slap at low mileage. My '16 has 24,xxx miles. I bought it in Feb. 2019 with a rebuilt title and 10,546 miles. Thus far no problems with it. Mine has a CVT and I'm more concerned about the issues with these transmissions than I am engine problems. At least the class action law suit increased my warranty on the transmission from 5/60-7/84.
Interesting, will this warranty apply to a salvage-title vehicle?
 

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As 9-15-2020...my 2015 sv has 149,559 miles: generally trouble free, never left me stranded, changed the CVT Fluid at Nissan Dealer at 90k...(crooks charged me $289.00 but I'm so CVT paranoid that I wanted a Nissan Dealer receipt) Otherwise at 70k I replaced the Radiator Cooling Fan Assembly and for insurance threw in the 2 AC Relays, Rock Auto less than $100 bucks...did it myself. Did my routine 100k service...Iridium Plugs & Serpentine Belt, did it myself got all parts from Rock...100% Synthetic since new every 5k religiously, change Engine Air filter every 15k, change the Cabin Air filter 2 times a year, just before summer and just before winter, outside of that I do Brake Pads as needed and the rear Drum Brakes are still the original and look good at last inspection. Started Chasing a P2096 and cleaning the MAF Sensor seems to have done the trick, and finally slapped in a new Fuel Pump last week, (Airtex $170 from Rock) did it myself only because I'm type A about Fuel Pumps and get nervous after 150,000) DON'T be cheap, it you change the fuel pump yourself BUY THE LOCK RING REMOVAL TOOL FIRST!!!! Amazon tools $25.00,worth every penny. Hope that helps. good luck
 

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Interesting, will this warranty apply to a salvage-title vehicle?
On the idle shudder, it shudders whenever the revs get down below 800 rpm, whether the A/C is on or off. Could be engine mounts, but I wonder if the transmission isn't fully disengaging while at a stop.

On the front suspension, I've had to replace just about every rubber piece on it. Within the past year, I've replaced the control arms, sway bar links, front struts and mounts, and driver side CV axle. The sway bar links didn't have to be done, but I was already in there, so I just went ahead and replaced them.
Oil them and they'll last. It's a bother but not much. White lithium grease. Mine squeaked then the lube fixed it (15 Versa) love it otherwise, no problems, 43 mpg avg.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
As 9-15-2020...my 2015 sv has 149,559 miles: generally trouble free, never left me stranded, changed the CVT Fluid at Nissan Dealer at 90k...(crooks charged me $289.00 but I'm so CVT paranoid that I wanted a Nissan Dealer receipt) Otherwise at 70k I replaced the Radiator Cooling Fan Assembly and for insurance threw in the 2 AC Relays, Rock Auto less than $100 bucks...did it myself. Did my routine 100k service...Iridium Plugs & Serpentine Belt, did it myself got all parts from Rock...100% Synthetic since new every 5k religiously, change Engine Air filter every 15k, change the Cabin Air filter 2 times a year, just before summer and just before winter, outside of that I do Brake Pads as needed and the rear Drum Brakes are still the original and look good at last inspection. Started Chasing a P2096 and cleaning the MAF Sensor seems to have done the trick, and finally slapped in a new Fuel Pump last week, (Airtex $170 from Rock) did it myself only because I'm type A about Fuel Pumps and get nervous after 150,000) DON'T be cheap, it you change the fuel pump yourself BUY THE LOCK RING REMOVAL TOOL FIRST!!!! Amazon tools $25.00,worth every penny. Hope that helps. good luck
Thanks so much for your post. That gives me some hope if you're at 150k now and it's still going.
 

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Interesting, will this warranty apply to a salvage-title vehicle?
Apparently so, I received a notice from Nissan with the VIN on it stating it was covered. The notice is going in the glove compartment in case I ever have a problem I can show it to the dealer when I take it in for repair. I also won't disclose that the car has a rebuilt title. In all reality the factory warranty should cover all the drivetrain since it wasn't damaged in the accident but I know it doesn't.
 
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