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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2016 Versa sedan.
70k miles
Recently had the spark plugs and coils done and a bunch of other work a month after changing the coils "autozone brand".Car started shaking misfiring stalled out died does not run anymore. There was a burning rubber smell. The reason was one of the autozone coils actually melted and exploded when I tried to put the old coils back in it still cranks no start you smell gas out the exhaust so there's just no spark. I'm getting power to the coils but it seems to not spark no matter what.
Codes
1st it had a ecm mem failure code. Cleared that then it was a comm error with the fuel level sensor. Now no codes.

Guessing autozone coil smoked ecm? Grabbed a junkyard one hopefully it runs for 5 seconds showing the ecm is the issue. Any ideas from the Versa masters?
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2016 Nissan Versa S (manual transmission)
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There are some individuals on ebay that will test & repair your ECM/PCM then return it for $90. If it can't be repaired, they will write your VIN# to another ECM/PCM. You might want to contact them and see if they can help you.

I've never worked with them, but if it were my car I might roll the dice for $90. At least you would know for sure whether you have an ECM/PCM issue or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
There are some individuals on ebay that will test & repair your ECM/PCM then return it for $90. If it can't be repaired, they will write your VIN# to another ECM/PCM. You might want to contact them and see if they can help you.

I've never worked with them, but if it were my car I might roll the dice for $90. At least you would know for sure whether you have an ECM/PCM issue or not.
It's my cousin's car my Uncle said he'll foot the bill to get it rebuilt but like you said its a shot in the dark. Here's me "testing" it. I got a jump box and my Aries hooked up so it has good power since the battery got run down cranking so much.

I had a free car back in 03 a 88 old's cutlass Cierra with a 3.3 and we put in ignition modules and they would run then blow up every 5 seconds and we ended up junking the car....

 

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How exactly did you confirm power to the coils? Did you check all of the fuses that provide power to the ecm? You always want to check all powers and g kind to a module before replacing it and you should always feel a little uneasy about replacing a module, since it's usually not the problem and is commonly misdiagnosed.

I'd check the fuses, and all powers and grounds on the ecm with the key on engine off. It's not fun on these with the ecm connect being the idiot that it is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
How exactly did you confirm power to the coils? Did you check all of the fuses that provide power to the ecm? You always want to check all powers and g kind to a module before replacing it and you should always feel a little uneasy about replacing a module, since it's usually not the problem and is commonly misdiagnosed.

I'd check the fuses, and all powers and grounds on the ecm with the key on engine off. It's not fun on these with the ecm connect being the idiot that it is.
Check the vid I got the test light blinking but when you plug it into the coil it doesn't do anything On all 4 of them
 

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I'm not sure that you are making contact by backpacking with the test light. It might be too big. Do you have a t pin you can use?

Did you pull the coil, ground the test light, and put the tip of the light near the end of the coil boot to see if a spark jumps out of it?

The yellow wire is the power that comes from a 10a fuse in the IPDM. Your test light should light, when you back probe the yellow with your rest light to battery ground with the key on. Make sure you do all of these tests with the connector plugged in.

The white wire is the control wire from the ecm. The coup has a transistor that switches this on and off.

The black wire is a constant ground, so your light should shine going from there to B+.

See what you get there, and with the coil out, trying jumping the spark to your test light tip. If possible, get some t pins or probes so you can be sure you are getting in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm not sure that you are making contact by backpacking with the test light. It might be too big. Do you have a t pin you can use?

Did you pull the coil, ground the test light, and put the tip of the light near the end of the coil boot to see if a spark jumps out of it?

The yellow wire is the power that comes from a 10a fuse in the IPDM. Your test light should light, when you back probe the yellow with your rest light to battery ground with the key on. Make sure you do all of these tests with the connector plugged in.

The white wire is the control wire from the ecm. The coup has a transistor that switches this on and off.

The black wire is a constant ground, so your light should shine going from there to B+.

See what you get there, and with the coil out, trying jumping the spark to your test light tip. If possible, get some t pins or probes so you can be sure you are getting in there.
Thanks for the Intel I'm gonna try that today before we switch the junk yard ecm. I did pull the coils put a spark plug in them ground the plug and try to get it to spark but it does nothing and it literally just cranks and you smell raw gas and it doesn't even try to fire at all.
Does that Car only have one fuse Box? I checked all the fuses inside that panel on the driver side between the door and they all were good. If that fuse were blown would I still be getting codes and the scan tool light up?
 

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IDPM is in the engine bay, near the battery
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm not sure that you are making contact by backpacking with the test light. It might be too big. Do you have a t pin you can use?

Did you pull the coil, ground the test light, and put the tip of the light near the end of the coil boot to see if a spark jumps out of it?

The yellow wire is the power that comes from a 10a fuse in the IPDM. Your test light should light, when you back probe the yellow with your rest light to battery ground with the key on. Make sure you do all of these tests with the connector plugged in.

The white wire is the control wire from the ecm. The coup has a transistor that switches this on and off.

The black wire is a constant ground, so your light should shine going from there to B+.

See what you get there, and with the coil out, trying jumping the spark to your test light tip. If possible, get some t pins or probes so you can be sure you are getting in there.
Thanks for the intel it was the coil fuse on that weird pullout fuse panel. I thought my 06 Altima had a strange fuse box this one is just crazy hidden. It started but the motor was knockin so shut it off then it cranked sputtered pumped the gas like crazy now it's running fine. Still gotta remove those time bomb Autozone coils from under the intake.

I had a similar issue on a 2013 Bmw. put in a Autozone water pump (electric) and after a year it died and when we put a new OEM one in it didn't work. The autozone pump melted the wire and blew a fuse inside the glovebox...
 
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