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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got a good long life out of this CVT. I just followed the 'severe" fluid change interval.

It started to leak fluid about two months ago, all over the drivers side rim, and undercarriage. So I think it would have gone further if the seal had not failed. It still moves and will crawl up to 55mph, so if I decide to fix, I should be able to limp it to the dealer.
This car has served me well.

First symptoms I noticed oil on wheel rim, then noises right after a cold startup.
 
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I have a 2014 versa note. I'm also in the rust belt in Canada. I have had similar issues recently, not sure if it's related, but here goes.

About a month ago, the CVT transmission cooler line started leaking. I saw small puddle of cvt fluid on drivers side corner, dripping from radiator drain plug area. The bottom of the engine bay, drivers side and along the radiator, looked freshly rust proofed. I was leaving a puddle everytime I parked.
Check transmission lines coming from radiator passengers side, the thin lines going down, then along bottom of radiator to drivers side. At which point they turn to rubber and cross over.
Specifically, check the metal segments that run along the bottom of the radiator, especially towards the end of the metal segment closest to transmission. There is a plastic support piece holding them there. Look for rust bubbles on the metal lines, its difficult to see. But the lines pop out of there plastic holders easily. Easier to see the leak if the car is running and actively leaking.

This also results in low fluid level and high fluid temperature, which would explain power loss.

The lines are like 30 dollars a piece. You almost certainly won't need any of the ones that are just rubber. Job takes like 15 mines for the lines.

Depending of course on how much fluid you have lost and weather you have been topping up at all. I lost maybe 2-3 L in maybe a week's time. Out of about 7. You seem to have a slow leak, probably return line.

I would also then suggest you try replacing the fluid in the transmission several times. Drain and fill, maybe driving a couple of days in between. You'd need to do it maybe five times. Mine drives better at 250k km than it did at 100k km. Your milage is higher though.

If it turn out to be the lines, and if it drives fine cold it's probably still worth trying.
You might be able to squeeze another few months or year out of it.
 

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The 4spd AT in my 2015 1.6s sedan shares the exact same lines as the CVT models. The metal section at the bottom of the radiator shroud rotted right though on mine last winter, right where the metal line clips into a plastic clip. I ordered the steel section of line but never used it. I ran a section of hose from the radiator cooler to the transmission instead. These steel lines are a problem across the board for Nissans. Have to keep an eye on them and spray them with fluid film or the likes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I've located the leaking , it's either the rubber hoses or the cooler nipple on that CVT square cooler/heater.
It drips a good 4-5 drops of fluid after I park it.

I've finally figured out how to properly fill this CVT, you open drain plug, remove that allen riser tube, drain, put back together, pop off fake dipstick from tube, use a funnel with a rubber hose or remover battery tray, fill slowly 2.5 quarts of NS-2 fluid, drive for 15 minutes to operating temp, loosen up drain plug(leave riser tube in) and let it drain to a trickle, install plug/dipstick and GTG

So every two weeks I'll do a fill/drain.
The hose looks like a PITA to replace, getting to the spring hose clamps is near impossible,(the hose leaking is t he one that runs between the other nipples fro the bottom to a top nipple on the CVT cooler.) Might be just better off removing the front end and radiator.

I have a 2014 versa note. I'm also in the rust belt in Canada. I have had similar issues recently, not sure if it's related, but here goes.

About a month ago, the CVT transmission cooler line started leaking. I saw small puddle of cvt fluid on drivers side corner, dripping from radiator drain plug area. The bottom of the engine bay, drivers side and along the radiator, looked freshly rust proofed. I was leaving a puddle everytime I parked.
Check transmission lines coming from radiator passengers side, the thin lines going down, then along bottom of radiator to drivers side. At which point they turn to rubber and cross over.
Specifically, check the metal segments that run along the bottom of the radiator, especially towards the end of the metal segment closest to transmission. There is a plastic support piece holding them there. Look for rust bubbles on the metal lines, its difficult to see. But the lines pop out of there plastic holders easily. Easier to see the leak if the car is running and actively leaking.

This also results in low fluid level and high fluid temperature, which would explain power loss.

The lines are like 30 dollars a piece. You almost certainly won't need any of the ones that are just rubber. Job takes like 15 mines for the lines.

Depending of course on how much fluid you have lost and weather you have been topping up at all. I lost maybe 2-3 L in maybe a week's time. Out of about 7. You seem to have a slow leak, probably return line.

I would also then suggest you try replacing the fluid in the transmission several times. Drain and fill, maybe driving a couple of days in between. You'd need to do it maybe five times. Mine drives better at 250k km than it did at 100k km. Your milage is higher though.

If it turn out to be the lines, and if it drives fine cold it's probably still worth trying.
You might be able to squeeze another few months or year out of it.
 

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Yep. Bunch of threads here on proper level checking and draining by removing the allen key riser pipe up in the drain plug.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Fixed the leak.
I'm guessing the fluid heater had cracked whenever I hit something, I did hit a **** a while back then noticed the drivers side rim getting all oily.

Nissan wanted like 600, got it for 42 bucks on Ebay... I had to remove the cooling fan to get to them damn bolts.
 

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