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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello, I’m new to the forum. I have a 2011 Versa hatchback with a 4speed auto tranny, 81k miles, a short ram intake, disconnected the coolant line to the throttle body and that’s it. My question is is that when I first start the car and drive, it shifts from 1st-3rd smooth and problem free but it takes a very long time before it shifts into 4th. I’ll be on the freeway at 60mph in 3rd gear pushing 2900 rpms for like 10-15 min and it’ll eventually shift into 4th. I have O/D ON. I’ve searched and have found nothing. Has anyone else had this issue? Thank you.
 

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Hello, I’m new to the forum. I have a 2011 Versa hatchback with a 4speed auto tranny, 81k miles, a short ram intake, disconnected the coolant line to the throttle body and that’s it. My question is is that when I first start the car and drive, it shifts from 1st-3rd smooth and problem free but it takes a very long time before it shifts into 4th. I’ll be on the freeway at 60mph in 3rd gear pushing 2900 rpms for like 10-15 min and it’ll eventually shift into 4th. I have O/D off. I’ve searched and have found nothing. Has anyone else had this issue? Thank you.
Overdrive is just top gear. Hitting the OD off button limits the trans to the first 3 gears and locks out 4th, which is overdrive.
 

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How are your tire psi? You may have a sticking brake or some increased in rolling resistance that causes more of a load on the car before it relaxes and goes into top gear.

Lets say you go 5-10 mph has your desired speed then try to maintain a little less. Will it go into od til you give it too much throttle then pop back out?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
How are your tire psi? You may have a sticking brake or some increased in rolling resistance that causes more of a load on the car before it relaxes and goes into top gear.

Lets say you go 5-10 mph has your desired speed then try to maintain a little less. Will it go into od til you give it too much throttle then pop back out?
My tire psi is correct on all four tires. City driving it’ll still stay in 3rd gear for 10-15 min on a hill or not. In the freeway the same. I do not touch the O/D button at all. I looked under my car today and their are oil stain on the transmission pan. I went and got a quart of transmission fluid and poured half of the bottle in. It does “shift softer” but it still stays in 3rd for a long time. No matter how much throttle I give it, it’ll still stay in 3rd and it won’t shift still. I’ll be climbing rpms and it’ll stay. Has anyone dealt with this before?
 

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My tire psi is correct on all four tires. City driving it’ll still stay in 3rd gear for 10-15 min on a hill or not. In the freeway the same. I do not touch the O/D button at all. I looked under my car today and their are oil stain on the transmission pan. I went and got a quart of transmission fluid and poured half of the bottle in. It does “shift softer” but it still stays in 3rd for a long time. No matter how much throttle I give it, it’ll still stay in 3rd and it won’t shift still. I’ll be climbing rpms and it’ll stay. Has anyone dealt with this before?
https://www.nissanofrr.com/blogs/1337/signs-nissan-needs-transmission-flush/
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My tire psi is correct on all four tires. City driving it’ll still stay in 3rd gear for 10-15 min on a hill or not. In the freeway the same. I do not touch the O/D button at all. I looked under my car today and their are oil stain on the transmission pan. I went and got a quart of transmission fluid and poured half of the bottle in. It does “shift softer” but it still stays in 3rd for a long time. No matter how much throttle I give it, it’ll still stay in 3rd and it won’t shift still. I’ll be climbing rpms and it’ll stay. Has anyone dealt with this before?
https://www.nissanofrr.com/blogs/1337/signs-nissan-needs-transmission-flush/
Thanks for the link. Checked it out and I’m just gonna do a tranny flush. Has anyone dealt with this problem?
 

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I had a supercharged tacoma like that with about 52 thousand miles on it. When cold I had like 2 gears which was ok since its 25 in my neighborhood. After a few minutes I got all 4 gears. When traveling 70-80 mph unloaded and level ground I couldnt get it to engage over drive myself. Sometimes on long trips it would work for a few hours then quit for a few hours with no indication of over heating or any error codes. Changed fluid 3 times after driving around the block and no change. I traded the truck for my honda and got more in trade than I paid for it as I purchased it at an auction. >:D

Thanks for the link. Checked it out and I’m just gonna do a tranny flush. Has anyone dealt with this problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Lol that Tacoma held its value like it should. In the sense of a different brand of car I have been debating on trading mine in. I have had piston slap since I got it at 52k, HORRIBLE gas mileage and it’s just too loud on the road plus my fiancé HATES riding in it. I still owe 11k and pay $200 a month for it. I really don’t want to pay $400 a month for a car, that’s just stupid. I guess I gotta just stick it out. CarMax would buy it for 4K, WHICH IS A JOKE, and stack the rest onto whatever. That negative equity is out ravenous. Has anyone done a voluntary repo?

I had a supercharged tacoma like that with about 52 thousand miles on it. When cold I had like 2 gears which was ok since its 25 in my neighborhood. After a few minutes I got all 4 gears. When traveling 70-80 mph unloaded and level ground I couldnt get it to engage over drive myself. Sometimes on long trips it would work for a few hours then quit for a few hours with no indication of over heating or any error codes. Changed fluid 3 times after driving around the block and no change. I traded the truck for my honda and got more in trade than I paid for it as I purchased it at an auction. /images/NissanVersaForums2/smilies/tango_face_devil.png

Thanks for the link. Checked it out and I’m just gonna do a tranny flush. Has anyone dealt with this problem?
 

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Unless you are willing to declare bankruptcy voluntary repo just means you turn in the car take whatever they say it's worth and your still on the hook for the rest of the loan. Then you have to buy another car.....and you have bad credit on top of that.
 

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Repo? They sell your car at auction and credit you that from what you owe plus tack on a few fees.

I paid in all 10 or 11 thousand for my car new and owe like 6 on it now. What did you pay for yours and was it new or used?

Ok, so driving at highway speed if you press the over drive button nothing happens? See for most automatics there is an extra shift that seems to take place where once you are at highway speeds your rpms drop another 500 or so. This is when the torque converter locks up. This didnt happen in my toyota til I exceeded 50 mph. Over drive is the addition of the highest gear before lock up. You have have lock up in 3rd gear. Typically auto trannys first unlock the converter if temperature is an issue or the clutch is damaged, unplugged, etc. Then if its still a thermal issue you loose high gear and the tranny reverts to 3rd gear.

So, what did the dealer or a trany shop tell you? Have you ever towed with your car or get really stuck in all the frozen stuff we have had the past few months?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Im not going to file for bankruptcy, I’m just gonna pay it down then trade it in to have less negative equity.

Unless you are willing to declare bankruptcy voluntary repo just means you turn in the car take whatever they say it's worth and your still on the hook for the rest of the loan. Then you have to buy another car.....and you have bad credit on top of that.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Yes, repo was an option that appealed to me most. For the most part the car has been nothing but reliable. I drive 100 miles a day 5 days a week for work (50 miles one way) and gas up here in the PNW is $3 a gallon and I fill up 2-3 times a week which comes out to $60 a week. Now X that by 4 and that’s $240 a month. Another option was trading it in and pay $400 a month for hybrid or diesel car. Less gas money spent but redirected into monthly payment for the car. I’m on the fence about everything lol.

I haven’t went to the dealer cuz I don’t have a warranty on it persay. No I haven’t towed anyone. This winter has been brutal up here and I know that has to be a factor. I’ve pressed the O/D button and it downshifted on the freeway.

Repo? They sell your car at auction and credit you that from what you owe plus tack on a few fees.

I paid in all 10 or 11 thousand for my car new and owe like 6 on it now. What did you pay for yours and was it new or used?

Ok, so driving at highway speed if you press the over drive button nothing happens? See for most automatics there is an extra shift that seems to take place where once you are at highway speeds your rpms drop another 500 or so. This is when the torque converter locks up. This didnt happen in my toyota til I exceeded 50 mph. Over drive is the addition of the highest gear before lock up. You have have lock up in 3rd gear. Typically auto trannys first unlock the converter if temperature is an issue or the clutch is damaged, unplugged, etc. Then if its still a thermal issue you loose high gear and the tranny reverts to 3rd gear.

So, what did the dealer or a trany shop tell you? Have you ever towed with your car or get really stuck in all the frozen stuff we have had the past few months?
 

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Well, change the fluid or go to a 3rd party like jiffy lube and get it changed, flush or what ever they do. If It were me Id get a can of cooler flush and flush that too. https://www.autobarn.net/kooler-kleen-transmission-flush-cleaner.html?site=google_base&gclid=CjwKCAiAz-7UBRBAEiwAVrz-9YVvk5PUHr2ls2abyxwp91-_WI40WMQ3BkKl2ZsoV06F53HAghiCIhoCb-4QAvD_BwE

The 5 speed runs at 3 grand at highway speed, so its a non issue for most of us that yours rev higher.

Yeah, Id stay away from diesel or hybrid. Maybe a plug in hybrid can help you save, but most of those have such high up front costs that you would need to own and drive the car til you hit 200-300 thousand miles to break even or even come out ahead. With the versa being purchasable new for 10 grand its hard to justify a 20-30 thousand dollar car. Hell, the Chevy Sonic actually won some bust buy poll in regards to price vs repairs.

I had a 2nd gen honda insight hybrid. I got 104 thousand miles before engine problems. Most got half that before they started to have engine problems. It was a fully loaded car for 18 grand, but when you look at cars like the versa S and base sonic, etc its not an economic decision.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I might try the kooler flush. Thanks for that. Yea 70 mph at 3k rpms has the engine roaring. I try my best to stay at 2300 at 60mph. I would buy the hybrid used. I’m not worried about depreciation cuz that’s with everything, just worried about reliability. I’m just gonna keep the Versa until I pay it off. And like I said before, it’s been extremely reliable, just horrible gas mileage and piston slap. Weird no one else has ever experienced this transmission problem..

Well, change the fluid or go to a 3rd party like jiffy lube and get it changed, flush or what ever they do. If It were me Id get a can of cooler flush and flush that too. https://www.autobarn.net/kooler-kleen-transmission-flush-cleaner.html?site=google_base&gclid=CjwKCAiAz-7UBRBAEiwAVrz-9YVvk5PUHr2ls2abyxwp91-_WI40WMQ3BkKl2ZsoV06F53HAghiCIhoCb-4QAvD_BwE

The 5 speed runs at 3 grand at highway speed, so its a non issue for most of us that yours rev higher.

Yeah, Id stay away from diesel or hybrid. Maybe a plug in hybrid can help you save, but most of those have such high up front costs that you would need to own and drive the car til you hit 200-300 thousand miles to break even or even come out ahead. With the versa being purchasable new for 10 grand its hard to justify a 20-30 thousand dollar car. Hell, the Chevy Sonic actually won some bust buy poll in regards to price vs repairs.

I had a 2nd gen honda insight hybrid. I got 104 thousand miles before engine problems. Most got half that before they started to have engine problems. It was a fully loaded car for 18 grand, but when you look at cars like the versa S and base sonic, etc its not an economic decision.
 

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+1

Yeah, most people get the CVT model. Id get the 4 speed if I couldnt get the manual. Wonder if the 4 speed has a filter in the pan you can change? I actually dropped the pan on my honda and its cvt had an internal filter, 3 magnets then an inline filter on the tranny cooler. I changed they all, clean the mags and put like 7 qt of cvt fluid back in it. Man, it shifted better than new.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Their is a filter but I read that it does not need to be replaced ever as in it’ll last the lifetime of the car

+1

Yeah, most people get the CVT model. Id get the 4 speed if I couldnt get the manual. Wonder if the 4 speed has a filter in the pan you can change? I actually dropped the pan on my honda and its cvt had an internal filter, 3 magnets then an inline filter on the tranny cooler. I changed they all, clean the mags and put like 7 qt of cvt fluid back in it. Man, it shifted better than new.
 

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I checked rockauto.com and they sell the filter and pan gasket. If you are handy Id try that and new fluid. Id also check and clean the pan and the magnets. What the pan looks like will tell you about your tranny condition.

Drove my V S today. Its 3 grand at 60 mph and 4 grand at 80. Ive driven a lot of economy cars and its pretty common for them to rev that high at highway speeds. I average over 40 mpg tank to tank cruzing at 70 or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Completed a drain and fill to no success. Still stuck in 3rd gear fir about 10 mins on the highway and off in the streets. Crazy to me how NO ONE ELSE has ever dealt with this problem.
 
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