[hemifan87]

ok so from what I have heard NST stoped making the light crank pully for the versa but heres another company makeing them. has anyone had any exspereance with this company?

Nissan Versa Lightweight Pulley - fits all 1.6L and 1.8L Models - Pulleys

 

[JoshG]

Yay, it fits 1.6 litres!

 

[RedAlertV]

Looks pretty decent, at least is not an ebay brand.

 

[JoshG]

^^^ That too!

 

[Ben_B]

In theory pulleys can be a bad idea because the stock one is weighted and balanced properly to reduce vibrations in the crankshaft.

Harmonic balancer - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

[BORNGEARHEAD]

I bought the 2JR pulley for my wife's 2012 Versa cvt hatch. The pulley for the Versa and the Juke are the EXACT same pulley. They are offering a special on the Juke pulley for $99. Buy that one and save $15.

Nissan Juke Lightweight Pulley - fits all 1.6L (MR16DDT) - Pulleys

On a side note, I have used lightened pulleys(mostly Unorthodox Pulleys) for 10 yrs on numerous Nissans and put lots of hard miles on them. I've NEVER had a problem with them.

 

[hemifan87]

thats great to hear that you had good luck with them thats one of the mods I want to do

 

[Ben_B]

Any gains from the butt dyno?

 

[hemifan87]

well its sposed to be 80% lighter then the stock one and if I remember right the NST one was 70% lighter then stock (which was like a 5hp gain) when I get the money I think Im going to try this one.

 

[unmei]

...
this was the pully i was talking about a couple months back that no one wanted. i hate my life.

 

[Hschlick84]

...
this was the pully i was talking about a couple months back that no one wanted. i hate my life.

Whoa there...no need to think negative thoughts! :biggrin5:

 

[nukepower]

How easy of an install is this?

 

[nukepower]

Today's project!

 

[athikerguy4life]

Please please please do a how-to. I'd love to do this mod, but idk if I wanna tackle it without some good directions

 

[JoshG]

Excuse me but what does the pully do?

 

[athikerguy4life]

It's lighter than the stock pully, so its easier for the engine to turn it. Basically it makes the parasitic draw from the ac, alternator, and everything else a little less. The way it was explained it me is that it it doesn't make new horsepower (like a cai would), it frees up horsepower the engine already has but cant put down to the wheels.

 

[nukepower]

Ok, I'm going to post a quick how-to on this in here. I took some pics while I was working but I didn't think about doing this until now. Hopefully you guys are mechanically inclined.

I noticed 2 small differences after this installation.
1. I felt a small increase in the quickness of my accelerator.
2. And I don't know if it's just me, but the vibration in my brake pedal that everyone's talking about lessened.

Now, I did all the work at my local auto hobby shop, so I had some weird tools at my disposal.
I used:
-Impact wrench
-Serpentine bet tension wrench (or a long wrench)
-Pulley pulling kit
-Flathead and phillips screwdriver
-10mm socket wrench

First thing you need to do is raise the car to take off the front-right wheel.

All these arrows point to where you need to remove push pins or screws to remove the wheel well.
Basically just remove anything that you need to in order to take that whell well off.


Now the picture above is a little hard to see, but the pulley that the orange arrow is pointing to is the main pulley to replace.
The circle is around the hex on the belt tensioner.
Find the wrench that fits and turn clockwise. It's spring loaded so hold the tensioner as far left as you can and slide the belt off the the main pulley. You don't need to pulley the belt completely off all the pulleys.



The picture above shows the main pulley. First take out the middle bolt (orange arrow). I honestly have no idea how you would take this out without an impact wrench. I would look at videos on youtube of people using breaker bars, but an impact wrench is the easiest way to go.
A little oil will drip when you get the bolt out, but that's supposed to happen.



This is the kind of puller I used. Put the to smaller bolts into the small holes in the pulley (green arrows). Then slowly tighten the large bolt in the middle. DO NOT DAMAGE THE THREADS ON THE INSIDE. I do;t even want to think about how fu*ked you'd be if you did.
Once the stock pulley is out, slide the new pulley in, lining up the notch on the pulley with the notch in the block.



Then just reverse the process. Hand tightening the pulley bolt, then tightening with the impact wrench, opening the belt tensioner, sliding the belt back on, and locking the wheel well back up.

Hopefully this did it for you. If you have any questions, PM me or something.

 

[athikerguy4life]

What is the tool you used to pull it actually called? Also, did the pulley come with instructions or was it a "figure it out for yourself" kind of thing?

Thanks for the write up!

 

[nukepower]

You can borrow the tool for cheap at autozone.
Pullers - Specialized | Loan-A-Tool® Program | In Our Stores | AutoZone.com
It should be the "timing gear puller"
And it was a "figure it out for yourself" kind of thing. haha.
Although I went to an Auto Hobby Shop, which they have on pretty much all large military bases for military personnel. They have mechanics there that are there to answer any questions.

 

[JVersa]

Hows it feel? Any change?