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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)

I wanted to share my experience in upgrading a 2014 Versa S that originally had manual locks and crank windows during the worst of COVID-19. Used it as a project to pass the time as well as helping my sister who owns the car. I meant to write this sooner, but been busy. I will say in the 2 years it has been since I did this, it has not had a single problem.

My goal for the project was to set it up as if it came from the factory. This mean essentially replacing all the wires inside the car all the way from the dash to the taillights, including the wiring going to the fuel pump and top of the gas tank. I will focus on what was done overall vs how to remove each item as the shop manual for the car covers that quite well. If your plan is to do the same, go ahead and gut the inside of the car entirely as you will have done so at one point or another during the process.

A few small notes you will run across during your reading.
  1. This is a long time consuming process
  2. You are going to have to tear out your entire interior.
  3. You will be spending quite a bit of money, as much as $2,000.
  4. You will have to repin the connector going to your instrument cluster if you don't buy a new dash and cluster.
  5. The BCM may or may not need to be replaced.
  6. Nissan keyfobs may not work, but an aftermarket remote start and alarm system will have one that works.

WARNING: This was not cheap, nor is it a good way to get a cheaper car with power locks and windows. This was way more difficult than I anticipated.

Started with the doors

I had originally hoped that the main harness was used in enough variations that if I could just get everything for the doors it would just work. It was not the case.

For each door you will need to purchase the items indicated below. I tried looking up the part numbers I purchased, but didn't have them available. Will update if I can find them. Each item is door specific from what I remember.

  1. Nissan Wiring Harness for door with power locks and windows (try to save mounting clips as much as possible)
  2. Power door lock actuator and latch
  3. Power window regulator (existing window will mount the same into power regulator)
  4. Door panels & power switches (I ended up having to purchase the switches separately of the panels)
Started by removing everything in the door, noting the path of the wiring. I detached the door wiring harness from the connectors inside the car which involves removing necessary panels inside. Pulled everything out except for the inside and outside handles. The handles can be left alone as they will work with the power components.
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Once I had everything tore out, I just started placing the new wiring in where the old wiring was. You will have more wires and mounting locations because of the power lock items, but the door will have the proper mounting spots available. I ran the wires back out the door and back into the car reverse of how I took the old harness out. After umounting the window from the original crank and window mount, I replaced it with the power regulator and mounted the window to the new one and plugged it in. I replaced the latch and actuator with the power one, and plugged it in. I hooked up the handles just the same as they came out. Reassembled the door and repeated that for all the doors as shown below. Keep in mind, you can plug them into the inside of the car again, but none of the power items will work cause the inside harness isn't wired for it. This is where the fun really started as I had to figure out what all I would need to replace to get it functional.

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Inside of the car

To my point earlier, the easiest way to get it done, is to remove nearly everyting. Seats front and back should be removed. All trim panels and dash should be removed, and if I remember correctly, I even took the carpet out. The reason for this is that the harness that runs under the dash along the reinforcement bar needs to be replaced. The harness(s) going along the floor all the way to the taillights need to be replaced. In my case the BCM did not need to be replaced or reprogrammed.

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In my case I purchased everything on ebay, EVERYTHING! When I did this, I was sure to check all the connection points to make sure they appeared correct. I will note that the common ones I saw different were airbag connections, as well as connections down near the shifter where they may have also had some sort of AUX or USB. A good seller should give you enough pictures to confirm everything is good with the harness.

Much like I did with the doors, I just went along and put the new harnesses in trying to match the path and using the same mounting points. It is pretty straight forward until you get to the fuel pump and gas tank. You will have to remove the cover which sits right below where the back seat goes. The new harness should also have this cover. You should be able to connect the fuel pump no problem, but there are some connectors at the top of the gas tank. I can confirm that you DO NOT NEED TO DROP THE GAS TANK! It is a little tricky but you can get everything connected.

At this point the power locks should work. There were 2 things that didn't work for me afterward, and while both are probably fixable, I only bothered fixing one of them.

The interior pieces for cars with power locks and windows and ones without are apparently different, and so is the instrument cluster. Because of this, and even with the plugs being the same, they are pinned differently. So unless you want to swap out your dash and instrument cluster, expect that your instrument cluster won't work. I had no intention of swapping it out, so I repinned the connector going to the instrument cluster. I don't have a diagram myself, but can say if you compare the pins between both in the shop manual, you can see where to move everything to.

The other thing that didn't work was a keyfob. I tried programming, and so did the dealership. They were not able to, and couldn't figure out why it wouldn't as I should have had everything. I am sure there is a solution, but I didn't push to find it as I installed a remote start that had its own, and didn't see a point in spending more time or money.

I will revise this based on interest and new information if and when able. I leave you with a few photos of how it appeared when nearly finished.
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3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Haha! That would have been easier for sure! All things considered, it was the best option for her as it was what she wanted anyway. Getting another car that already had it really wasn't in the cards at the time, and it kept her in the car she already liked to begin with. Although it was a lot of work, I am still glad I did it. Had a few other people asking if I could do the same to theirs even given the cost.

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
@dkmura Thanks! I do certainly agree that you don't see as many that really just tell it how it is with costs included, and I think that is important to know what your really getting into. Although I certainly don't regret doing it as it was the right way to go in my case, I never would have thought it would cost that much! Labor costs would have easily doubled the cost of the job itself...easy!
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