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Discussion Starter #1
My passenger front tire seems to lose the most air more often. My other three wheels are always stable at 36 PSI but the passenger front can go down to 30 PSI two or three days then couple days. 25 PSI triggering the TPMS. Although now I check it more often before the light comes on.

Is this normal? Since that wheel is the drive wheel.

I can't spot any punctures etc...what to do?

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Don't forget to check around the valve too. I have a slow front leaker as well, but it's very slow
 

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My passenger front tire seems to lose the most air more often. My other three wheels are always stable at 36 PSI but the passenger front can go down to 30 PSI two or three days then couple days. 25 PSI triggering the TPMS. Although now I check it more often before the light comes on.

Is this normal? Since that wheel is the drive wheel.

I can't spot any punctures etc...what to do?

As other posters have mentioned, check the valve itself for a leak with soapy water. If possible, jack the car up and rotate and inspect the tire carefully, looking for embedded nails or screws. Sometimes if you have a nail or screw stuck in your tire, it will leak air slowly. If you do find a nail or screw, do not pull it out, unless you are going to plug the tire yourself. You can drive it to a service station to have it taken care of. If, after doing the above, you find nothing out of sorts, you may have a rim leak, in which case, you may have to have the tire remounted. Good luck!!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for all the suggestions.

I sprayed some water all around the tire and noticed on one of the inner treads some very small air bubbles coming out. There is no visible puncture I can see where these bubbles are coming out so must be a super super small hole, how can I fix that?

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You can take it to a shop, and usually for $20 they can plug it for you. However, if you want to buy a plugging set, you can do it yourself. The basic procedure is to use the reaming tool to make the hole bigger and roughen the rubber, insert a plug bead into the plugging tool, coat it with rubber cement, then push that plug into the tire until you see the two ends of the plug sticking out of the tire. Then light it on fire to vulcanize the rubber plug. It's MUCH easier to take the wheel off to do this. You need a compressed air source too, since you will lose alot of air in the process of plugging the hole.
 

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Discount Tire repairs tires for free whether you bought them there or not. However, if the leak is past the last sipe then the tire is not repairable. In this case, either fix it yourself or put Slime in the tire. However, if you put Slime in the tire most shops will not repair it if you get a nail or something in it because a patch plug wont adhere to the inside of the tire due to the SLime.
 

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Yeah if the hole is in either side shoulder wall it's not recommended to repair it. Rear wheels i would do it on a case by case basis depending on how close it is to sidewall, because the back end on any FWD takes little load. Patches won't work on the shoulder wall since the shoulder wall is what flexes and takes axial load transfer, the patch would quickly fall off.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I ended up taking to AAA where I use to take my old car to near my home, it was a long thin screw that was in the inner tread of the tire.

When I complained to my dealer about it during a recent oil change I now know they did not check it. He said when he pulled the nail it was not leaking which is BS, because I was loosing air pressure and you could see bubbles when I sprayed water on it. I know it was leaking and today when the tech pulled the screw I could hear all the air hissing out.

Thanks for all the assistance. I don't have a Discount Tire near my home otherwise I would have taken it there.

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*tread. .
 
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