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2017 Nissan versa sedan s plus. The dealer changed out my alternator and now the charging voltage id 12.9. I monitor the voltage with a scan guage. I think it was nearer ti 14v with the original alternator but I really cant remember. im hoping they didn't install the wrong alternator.
 

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2017 Nissan versa sedan s plus. The dealer changed out my alternator and now the charging voltage id 12.9. I monitor the voltage with a scan guage. I think it was nearer ti 14v with the original alternator but I really cant remember. im hoping they didn't install the wrong alternator.
That charging voltage is low:

A car alternator needs to be putting out at least 13-14 volts (ideally between 13.8 and 14.2 volts) to effectively charge a 12 volt car battery.
 

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Look at the alt for markings showing it is a new Nissan part if you got charged a high dealer price there. While I was in parts we had OEM dealer clients that took advantage of the lifetime warranty on things to buy our alts because the delivery stream could get them to the parts store far faster than the OEM delivery was. Well, of course those alts suck (20% failed out of the box) and common for many of them to not work at all right but the dealer doesn't care as the parts store suffers the loss mainly other than reinstall labor. The dealer also lets people think they are factory parts when they are not and simply tell the customer they are lifetime warranty and the customer is foolish enough to buy that, thus guaranteeing that the dealer was likely able to charge easily twice what the alt was worth in the process. I saw that stuff enough to throw up.
 

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I saw no markings showing a gen Nissan part.
Are you running into any problems with the alternator they put in?? I have a scanguage on my 2012 Versa, and the voltage usually sits at about 13.5 and 14 volts which is usual charging voltage.
 

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Does the voltage jump up when a load is put on it? I.E. The A/C or headlights?

It should have a load detector to save fuel as well as the life of the alternator so it'll be at roughly the 12.9 you are describing and then jump up to 14 or so when a load is detected.
 

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One should ALWAYS have them run a new alt up on their in shop machine and have them check RIPPLE when they are testing it. It is the test result that tells you the diode section is properly handing only DC voltage over to the regulator.

You can test for it yourself with a VOM by setting the meter on A/C instead of D/C and then looking for the number given at battery + as being as low as it can go. Engine warm idled and all power loads off. It's a good idea to have a known good result there before trouble ever shows up, later comparison can tell you how bad diodes are breaking down.
 
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