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Discussion Starter #1
I was prepping to change the Serpentine Belt/Drive Belt in my '09 Versa via instructions from FSM on Nico club, but I figured I'd scroll through my Haynes manual as well before doing the swap. It looks like the info in the Factory Service Manual may be for a 1.6L engine. It says to loosen the Idler pulley bolt & the Idler pulley lock nut, pull the belt & swap, retighten.
However, when I scrolled through the Haynes, it says for a 1.8L model: "Rotate the belt tensioner clockwise using a wrench on the pulley bolt to release tension on the drivebelt. The tensioner can be locked in position by inserting a drill bit or other metal rod into the lock holes. **Caution: Do NOT loosen the drivebelt tensioner pulley bolt or it will be necessary to replace the entire tensioner with a new one."

This sounds pretty straight forward, but all the advice I was getting centered around loosening the pulley lock nut & adjustment bolt. I just wanted to see i anyone listening/reading has changed the belt on a 1.8L model, and can confirm for me.

Thanks in advance for any help!
Clay
 

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I was prepping to change the Serpentine Belt/Drive Belt in my '09 Versa via instructions from FSM on Nico club, but I figured I'd scroll through my Haynes manual as well before doing the swap. It looks like the info in the Factory Service Manual may be for a 1.6L engine. It says to loosen the Idler pulley bolt & the Idler pulley lock nut, pull the belt & swap, retighten.
However, when I scrolled through the Haynes, it says for a 1.8L model: "Rotate the belt tensioner clockwise using a wrench on the pulley bolt to release tension on the drivebelt. The tensioner can be locked in position by inserting a drill bit or other metal rod into the lock holes. **Caution: Do NOT loosen the drivebelt tensioner pulley bolt or it will be necessary to replace the entire tensioner with a new one."

This sounds pretty straight forward, but all the advice I was getting centered around loosening the pulley lock nut & adjustment bolt. I just wanted to see i anyone listening/reading has changed the belt on a 1.8L model, and can confirm for me.

Thanks in advance for any help!
Clay
This guy is changing out the tensioner and it may give you some helpful information. Good luck!!



 

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Without having looked at mine I'll say that generally all you have to do is to lift the tensioner arm up against the spring pressure to relieve it on the belt to let it come off. You never remove a pulley unless damaged. Now, having said that, I know that getting to some arms that are buried in front of engine can be somewhat problematic, and why tool makers make long arm pry bars specifically to get to those hard to reach tensioners. I used to rent them out all the time when I did parts.

I'm thinking without proof that they say you have to change the tensioner if the pulley bolt is loosened because it is loctited and breaking the loctite loose can let the bolt come loose to tear things up. Don't quote me on that, it's just a guess. If you loosen the bolt the spring comes unwound off its' stops and it can be fits getting it all back together again.

If the engineer was not stupid, often you can try to TIGHTEN the pulley bolt and it then lifts the tensioner arm up for you, and how I lifted up Ford ones to remove belts. The unit must be built to unspring in the correct direction for that to work. On the Fords a boxed end wrench hooked around the open end of another boxed one that fits pulley bolt made a double long wrench that had enough length to easily install belts or pull them off in seconds. On Tempos I used an allen wrench clamped hard in videgrips to hook the short arm of the allen inside the pulley edge to lift it up to remove belt.

I have not had the need to cobble up a tool yet on my Nissan, coming soon though.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Pimperell for the video! I was able to see him pull the tensioner arm up when putting the belt back on. Sure as hell hope I never have to change the tensioner. Looks like a pain.

Thanks to you Amc49 as well. I think the boxed on boxed will work great. Gonna knock it out tomorrow.

I really appreciate the input. You guys are the BEST!

Thank you,
Clay
 

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As far as my concern they ALL need to go back to manual tensioners. I'm working out a design to make one for my Focus cars, the OEM part there is absolutely horrible as far as wear life goes and there is another very bad side effect the designers never apparently considered. The tensioner is aggravated by crankshaft harmonics coming down the rubber belt to induce a sympathetic vibration in the tensioner arm once the part gets older to drop off some spring tension. The arm then begins to vibrate trying to match the give and take of the forward/backward warping of the outer vibration damper ring, which is normal to counteract crank vibration. It then makes tensioner rattle internally as it gives and takes on the spring to smash against internal spring stops. A racket like the engine has a bad rod knock at idle. I've seen brand new tensioners do it in a month after they wear the internal damper off the spring to then spring freely either way. Why almost every Focus you run across rattles at idle like the crank is about to jump out on the street.
 

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A bit late, but I would invest in a belt tensioner wrench. Saves ALOT of hassles.
Also sometimes you can get a 3/8 in breaker bar into the hole to get the tension off.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
A bit OT here, but is it the 2013+ that switched to a manual tensioner for the serp belt?
Not sure what they changed on the 2013, but it looks like the 1.6L engines have the manual tensioner, 1.8Ls have the automatic.
 
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