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I have a 2010 Versa HB that needs Right and Left Lower Ball Joints. Are the ball joints replaceable without replacing the Traverse Links too? I would rather not spend $75 each on the complete traverse links if not necessary. Also, according to the FSM, one bolt on the drivers side will not clear the transaxle without lowering the Front Suspension Assembly. Is the Ball Joint replaceable without removing the Traverse Link?
 

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"Officially" the BJ is not separately replaceable. I don't know if you can "hack" that, but you don't need to spend $75 for the part. I just completed my left side on a 2009 Versa, and am about to do the right side. Get the part from rockauto dot com. You'll find that it's under $20 per side, and about $10 for shipping.
 

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X2, Nissan prefers to sell the entire control arm as it guarantees that the BJ will be tight. Once a part is pressed out sometimes the new one does not press in as tight, the removal of the old one is a semi-destructive process that can wallow the hole out if somebody is incompetently pressing the part out.
 

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In the process of trying to determine the specifications for the nut and bolt that hold the ball joint in place, I have discovered that NAPA actually does sell this ball joint as a separate part (in a kit with that nut/bolt). Still scares me to think of just replacing that, but if that's what you want to do, they have the part... HTH.

(BTW, does anyone know/can anyone tell me the size and strength of this nut/bolt? Mine has clearly been replaced with a cheap hardware store special, so I can't use that for reference!)
 

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When I had mine replaced, I went for the entire LCA. I also have a VERY good relationship with my Nissan dealer, and they put my NAPA arms on for me!
 

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I was told by NAPA that this is a 55mm long, 10mm diameter, 1.25 pitch, flange head, 12.9 grade (yeah, seriously!) bolt. They had dug out one of their balljoint kits and taken a look at the bolt it contains. Unfortunately they only sell 10.9 grade bolts "loose". I posted more about my adventures trying to find this, and the nearest equivalent I've found to date, in another thread about this same topic.
 

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Use your original 12.9 part over, if it pulls up OK to the torque figure it is fine.

Metric parts use 'property class' as the rating method; it is not the same as SAE spec 'grade', which will only be about grade 8 and fine.
 
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