Nissan Versa Forums banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
244 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Had my 16 Note SV with 56,000 miles, CVT: in to the Nissan dealer for an oil change (got $15 for oil change coupon in mail). They did one of those multipoint checks while doing oil change. Only thing they found wrong is they said I needed a new battery.

I know it's just a come on.....the car starts and runs fine.

But:::::
How long are you folks getting out of the original battery?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
249 Posts
My father in law traded in their 1998 Nissan Maxima in 2007 with the factory battery in it yet. He never even thought about it because it always just did it's thing. Given how small they size car batteries today, you'd probably be lucky to get 5yrs out of one. It seems extremely hot climates are tougher on automotive batteries than colder climates.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,244 Posts
When I was in parts the OEM battery life of all brands was close to the same, or about 4 years max..............you can always have one of the ones that goes a whopping distance just because of the randomness of it all, battery science is never exact. I've had a 3 year Walmart battery go to 11 years before and right now have one that is now at 8+. Batteries that sit a lot in undriven cars last longer if you keep them charged up on time, they shake less, it is the vibration of car moving that shakes the sulfation loose to then drop to bottom of cells to build up to short them out over time. If you keep the battery disconnected while it sits then it does not cycle down to run down over and over nearly as fast, that extends the life too.

To OP, the battery check can show a battery that is getting low even though it seems to perform fine. The loadtest number drops during battery life and that number is the true tale of what kind of shape the battery is in. The later Fords will begin to do a needle sweep like Nissan does normally, it shows a battery as being low and the sweep showing up means you have maybe 2 more months left before your first fail to start. If one is tuned in, (I do it all the time) one can tell when a battery is close to the end by simply picking up on how the starter solenoid reacts, the slight differences often tell you when it is getting weaker but you have to have an ear for it and the familiarity of how the car usually sounds at cranking.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
128 Posts
Batteries just aren't as good as they used to be. When the factory battery went bad on my mom's Grand Marquis I went and bought what was supposed to be a top of the line battery. If I recall correctly I had to trade for 3 different batteries before I finally got a good one. I was also having to buy a new battery nearly every year for her riding mower. This past spring I decided to cut the ends off the battery cables and replace them with terminals for a car battery and put a car battery in it. I was able to buy a 2 year free replacement, 5 year pro rated battery at Rural King for about $55 and I'd been paying $20-25 for lawn and garden batteries and having to replace them yearly. I didn't have any problem starting that 15.5HP motor this year.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
249 Posts
For my lawn equipment batteries, I just keep a $6 harbor freight tools battery tender/trickle charger plugged into them over the winter. My riding mower battery is from 2009. If you let them sit all winter, you're lucky to get a few years out of them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
128 Posts
For my lawn equipment batteries, I just keep a $6 harbor freight tools battery tender/trickle charger plugged into them over the winter. My riding mower battery is from 2009. If you let them sit all winter, you're lucky to get a few years out of them.
I've got some of the trickle chargers from Harbor Freight too but, I still had lots of issues with lawn mower batteries only lasting a year or slightly over. Best lawn mower battery I can recall ever having was an Interstate that lasted 7-8 years but the last time I priced an Interstate I could buy a full size car battery for just a few dollars more. The reviews for the Interstate batteries were kind of hit or miss too and sure didn't want to pay $50 for one and it only last a year.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,244 Posts
When I sold lawn batteries it was understood they pretty much cycle out every year, most customers accept that and the industry itself is pointed in that direction. I made mine go longer too and then quit using them at all, simply jumping the mower off with a car battery. I use it as well on my cordless Makita drill since the batteries got old and refused to charge up.

The vast majority of car batteries will go bad at 3-4 years regardless of the brand or quality or life level. The 7-8 year ones are the worst about not making full time there and Motorcraft were the only ones that even came close to hitting warranty life, most others die in 5-6 years and often sooner. Why I never buy more than a 3 year battery, most of those will go to 4 years and even the 2 year ones commonly go 3 years. All of that learned from selling them OTC for years.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
17353
A guy that got over a million miles out of a Mercedes had a tip to keep your electrical system in great shape. He said to replace the battery and generally all fluids at the recommended schedule
That way to don't strain the system any more than is necessary. It's not always the cheapest route. It depends on how long you want to keep it. I'm 65 and my 2018 Versa has 6,700 on it and I want to drive it to the grave!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
I had to replace mine early in the winter months here, 2016 SV Note. I don't know if it was stock (I'm the 3rd, and likely final, owner of the car) but it was a tiny battery!! Something like 440 CCA rated, an older guy at Autozone had never seen on rated so low!!

Got a good price at Walmart (free install) and loaded with 600 CCA now...turns over the engine regardless of how cold it is, very happy with it!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,244 Posts
Batteries in the '60s for four cylinders typically went at 300 amps...................and even lower, the ratings system back then said to go at least 1 amp for every cubic inch of engine displacement, that's 120 amp for a 2 liter engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Depends on different factors. Sometimes bad from the get go. We always recommend battery services when the terminals and battery top have corrosion and people never want to do them but that crap ruins them. The battery top has to be clean and so do the terminals.

When the tops are a mess, you can usually place your positive lead on the positive terminal and touch the top of the battery case with the negative, and read voltage. You shouldn't see voltage there. That grime and corrosion is actually making a path between the two terminals as a small short.

The dealer likely tested the battery using their battery/charging system tester as a courtesy and it said the battery was bad. It might not be bad enough to show signs yet but may leave you stranded at some point. You can get a second opinion test at one of the auto parts stores too if you are skeptical.

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
I've got a 2017 Versa SV Special that I got new at the end of December 2017. I've got a little over 19k miles and it's been trouble free. I was at the dealer this morning for an oil change and their "complementory inspection" found my battery failed the load test, even though I hadn't noticed anything wrong. They replaced the battery under warranty, no cost. :)

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,244 Posts
Oh, there is a cost there alright. Smart dealers will increase shop throughput in periods of low work by taking low mileage cars still in warranty and warranting work on those to get the chargeback from Nissan corporate that is normally provided for. It's one big reason why you can find them alternately anxious to work on your car 'for free' as opposed to not wanting to help you at all.

In extreme cases some will heavily abuse that to get huge corporate windfalls by making up warranty issues out of the blue. I once was a victim of that, a car taken in stupidly for what should have been only a fuse turned into a nightmare with more than $6K in charges that were absolutely non-existent, they were simply bleeding Ford corporate out of every last cent they could. I paid nothing of course but they gave me back a junker instead of the brand new car I left with them. Then when I leaned on them with legal the lies flowed so hot and fast I formed an idea of dealers that has lasted to this day.

That dealer claimed they found electrical issues from the factory all over the place, the windshield leaked heavily to cover the PCM with water, the windshield and both front seats supposedly were removed and reinstalled as well as all 4 doors removed for 'noise issues', as well as all tires getting balanced when the car was so smooth you couldn't even tell you were moving at 70 mph. They produced a dealer order and complaint list with a counterfeited signature by me, I had never signed anything at all. The car came back to me shaking the steering wheel so hard you could not go over 30 mph. I carefully inspected the car to find not one bit of all that work was done except for the utterly incompetent wheel balancing, they did not even remove the original wheel weights, just stacked more on top of them. I could have started a wheel weight store with what I pulled off the car myself to go back to perfect driving at 70 mph.

So, while dealers using the warranty can be very helpful, they can also turn out to be your worst nightmare. Myself, I never give them a chance to do bad, the urge is too strong in our Trump world of crooked is right, only idiots stay honest.

I suppose I should have thanked them for changing the fuse to make the window go back to working, the initial complaint.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top