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Had my 16 Note SV with 56,000 miles, CVT: in to the Nissan dealer for an oil change (got $15 for oil change coupon in mail). They did one of those multipoint checks while doing oil change. Only thing they found wrong is they said I needed a new battery.

I know it's just a come on.....the car starts and runs fine.

But:::::
How long are you folks getting out of the original battery?
 

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My father in law traded in their 1998 Nissan Maxima in 2007 with the factory battery in it yet. He never even thought about it because it always just did it's thing. Given how small they size car batteries today, you'd probably be lucky to get 5yrs out of one. It seems extremely hot climates are tougher on automotive batteries than colder climates.
 

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When I was in parts the OEM battery life of all brands was close to the same, or about 4 years max..............you can always have one of the ones that goes a whopping distance just because of the randomness of it all, battery science is never exact. I've had a 3 year Walmart battery go to 11 years before and right now have one that is now at 8+. Batteries that sit a lot in undriven cars last longer if you keep them charged up on time, they shake less, it is the vibration of car moving that shakes the sulfation loose to then drop to bottom of cells to build up to short them out over time. If you keep the battery disconnected while it sits then it does not cycle down to run down over and over nearly as fast, that extends the life too.

To OP, the battery check can show a battery that is getting low even though it seems to perform fine. The loadtest number drops during battery life and that number is the true tale of what kind of shape the battery is in. The later Fords will begin to do a needle sweep like Nissan does normally, it shows a battery as being low and the sweep showing up means you have maybe 2 more months left before your first fail to start. If one is tuned in, (I do it all the time) one can tell when a battery is close to the end by simply picking up on how the starter solenoid reacts, the slight differences often tell you when it is getting weaker but you have to have an ear for it and the familiarity of how the car usually sounds at cranking.
 

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Batteries just aren't as good as they used to be. When the factory battery went bad on my mom's Grand Marquis I went and bought what was supposed to be a top of the line battery. If I recall correctly I had to trade for 3 different batteries before I finally got a good one. I was also having to buy a new battery nearly every year for her riding mower. This past spring I decided to cut the ends off the battery cables and replace them with terminals for a car battery and put a car battery in it. I was able to buy a 2 year free replacement, 5 year pro rated battery at Rural King for about $55 and I'd been paying $20-25 for lawn and garden batteries and having to replace them yearly. I didn't have any problem starting that 15.5HP motor this year.
 

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For my lawn equipment batteries, I just keep a $6 harbor freight tools battery tender/trickle charger plugged into them over the winter. My riding mower battery is from 2009. If you let them sit all winter, you're lucky to get a few years out of them.
 

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For my lawn equipment batteries, I just keep a $6 harbor freight tools battery tender/trickle charger plugged into them over the winter. My riding mower battery is from 2009. If you let them sit all winter, you're lucky to get a few years out of them.
I've got some of the trickle chargers from Harbor Freight too but, I still had lots of issues with lawn mower batteries only lasting a year or slightly over. Best lawn mower battery I can recall ever having was an Interstate that lasted 7-8 years but the last time I priced an Interstate I could buy a full size car battery for just a few dollars more. The reviews for the Interstate batteries were kind of hit or miss too and sure didn't want to pay $50 for one and it only last a year.
 

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When I sold lawn batteries it was understood they pretty much cycle out every year, most customers accept that and the industry itself is pointed in that direction. I made mine go longer too and then quit using them at all, simply jumping the mower off with a car battery. I use it as well on my cordless Makita drill since the batteries got old and refused to charge up.

The vast majority of car batteries will go bad at 3-4 years regardless of the brand or quality or life level. The 7-8 year ones are the worst about not making full time there and Motorcraft were the only ones that even came close to hitting warranty life, most others die in 5-6 years and often sooner. Why I never buy more than a 3 year battery, most of those will go to 4 years and even the 2 year ones commonly go 3 years. All of that learned from selling them OTC for years.
 

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A guy that got over a million miles out of a Mercedes had a tip to keep your electrical system in great shape. He said to replace the battery and generally all fluids at the recommended schedule
That way to don't strain the system any more than is necessary. It's not always the cheapest route. It depends on how long you want to keep it. I'm 65 and my 2018 Versa has 6,700 on it and I want to drive it to the grave!
 

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I had to replace mine early in the winter months here, 2016 SV Note. I don't know if it was stock (I'm the 3rd, and likely final, owner of the car) but it was a tiny battery!! Something like 440 CCA rated, an older guy at Autozone had never seen on rated so low!!

Got a good price at Walmart (free install) and loaded with 600 CCA now...turns over the engine regardless of how cold it is, very happy with it!
 

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Batteries in the '60s for four cylinders typically went at 300 amps...................and even lower, the ratings system back then said to go at least 1 amp for every cubic inch of engine displacement, that's 120 amp for a 2 liter engine.
 

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Depends on different factors. Sometimes bad from the get go. We always recommend battery services when the terminals and battery top have corrosion and people never want to do them but that crap ruins them. The battery top has to be clean and so do the terminals.

When the tops are a mess, you can usually place your positive lead on the positive terminal and touch the top of the battery case with the negative, and read voltage. You shouldn't see voltage there. That grime and corrosion is actually making a path between the two terminals as a small short.

The dealer likely tested the battery using their battery/charging system tester as a courtesy and it said the battery was bad. It might not be bad enough to show signs yet but may leave you stranded at some point. You can get a second opinion test at one of the auto parts stores too if you are skeptical.

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk
 

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I've got a 2017 Versa SV Special that I got new at the end of December 2017. I've got a little over 19k miles and it's been trouble free. I was at the dealer this morning for an oil change and their "complementory inspection" found my battery failed the load test, even though I hadn't noticed anything wrong. They replaced the battery under warranty, no cost. :)

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Oh, there is a cost there alright. Smart dealers will increase shop throughput in periods of low work by taking low mileage cars still in warranty and warranting work on those to get the chargeback from Nissan corporate that is normally provided for. It's one big reason why you can find them alternately anxious to work on your car 'for free' as opposed to not wanting to help you at all.

In extreme cases some will heavily abuse that to get huge corporate windfalls by making up warranty issues out of the blue. I once was a victim of that, a car taken in stupidly for what should have been only a fuse turned into a nightmare with more than $6K in charges that were absolutely non-existent, they were simply bleeding Ford corporate out of every last cent they could. I paid nothing of course but they gave me back a junker instead of the brand new car I left with them. Then when I leaned on them with legal the lies flowed so hot and fast I formed an idea of dealers that has lasted to this day.

That dealer claimed they found electrical issues from the factory all over the place, the windshield leaked heavily to cover the PCM with water, the windshield and both front seats supposedly were removed and reinstalled as well as all 4 doors removed for 'noise issues', as well as all tires getting balanced when the car was so smooth you couldn't even tell you were moving at 70 mph. They produced a dealer order and complaint list with a counterfeited signature by me, I had never signed anything at all. The car came back to me shaking the steering wheel so hard you could not go over 30 mph. I carefully inspected the car to find not one bit of all that work was done except for the utterly incompetent wheel balancing, they did not even remove the original wheel weights, just stacked more on top of them. I could have started a wheel weight store with what I pulled off the car myself to go back to perfect driving at 70 mph.

So, while dealers using the warranty can be very helpful, they can also turn out to be your worst nightmare. Myself, I never give them a chance to do bad, the urge is too strong in our Trump world of crooked is right, only idiots stay honest.

I suppose I should have thanked them for changing the fuse to make the window go back to working, the initial complaint.
 

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I had the same spiel that the battery needed to be replaced from those Firestone or Goodyear outlets. Before I bought my Versa Note I had a used 2000 Honda Accord and never had issues with the battery that came with the car. But when I took it down to Firestone for tires or something they told me the battery failed the load test and eventually needed replacing. It's all a con if you ask me or they must be using ultra-sensitive equipment. I eventually bought an electronic battery tester and one of those battery fluid testers to check the condition of the battery myself, in case this happens again.

As far as the Versa Note battery, I have a 2016 and I've gone on trips and left the car sitting for 2.5 weeks and it starts right up when I come back. But I'm in Hawaii so temps are around 75-90 F all year round. I know the 2016 at least comes with a high output OEM alternator from the factory. On my 2013 Mustang, the Ford Motorcraft battery crapped out in about 3 years and I replaced it with an Interstate.
 

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Passing the battery load test is all based on the amp number they plug into the test, you can fail or pass based on that number. And if the guy testing is too lazy to dig up the number if the battery sticker is damaged to not show it then they pick a number out of thin air that can tilt the test result wildly too.

Like with most things you are guided by what the cheapest paid employee in the building does and says to you there. Why I have zero patience with any Republican business owner who b-tches and moans about not being able to find well-trained intelligent help, they brought it on themselves and well deserved I say. Only an idiot puts out max effort when they will get nothing for it.

From somebody who has worked auto parts 3X in life, it just gets worse and worse through the years. If you can count to 5 now they will make you a store manager but then you realize you get screwed even more than when you just walked into the door knowing nothing. It used to at least be a fun job but they managed to destroy that entirely as well. I did learn a few things about batteries there though. Like NEVER buy the upper end ones, they never pay off in the long run.
 

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Oh, there is a cost there alright. Smart dealers will increase shop throughput in periods of low work by taking low mileage cars still in warranty and warranting work on those to get the chargeback from Nissan corporate that is normally provided for. It's one big reason why you can find them alternately anxious to work on your car 'for free' as opposed to not wanting to help you at all.

In extreme cases some will heavily abuse that to get huge corporate windfalls by making up warranty issues out of the blue. I once was a victim of that, a car taken in stupidly for what should have been only a fuse turned into a nightmare with more than $6K in charges that were absolutely non-existent, they were simply bleeding Ford corporate out of every last cent they could. I paid nothing of course but they gave me back a junker instead of the brand new car I left with them. Then when I leaned on them with legal the lies flowed so hot and fast I formed an idea of dealers that has lasted to this day.

That dealer claimed they found electrical issues from the factory all over the place, the windshield leaked heavily to cover the PCM with water, the windshield and both front seats supposedly were removed and reinstalled as well as all 4 doors removed for 'noise issues', as well as all tires getting balanced when the car was so smooth you couldn't even tell you were moving at 70 mph. They produced a dealer order and complaint list with a counterfeited signature by me, I had never signed anything at all. The car came back to me shaking the steering wheel so hard you could not go over 30 mph. I carefully inspected the car to find not one bit of all that work was done except for the utterly incompetent wheel balancing, they did not even remove the original wheel weights, just stacked more on top of them. I could have started a wheel weight store with what I pulled off the car myself to go back to perfect driving at 70 mph.

So, while dealers using the warranty can be very helpful, they can also turn out to be your worst nightmare. Myself, I never give them a chance to do bad, the urge is too strong in our Trump world of crooked is right, only idiots stay honest.

I suppose I should have thanked them for changing the fuse to make the window go back to working, the initial complaint.
I'm skeptical of dealerships myself, knowing they're out to get my money but I never would've thought they'd go so far as to make fake warranty claims and then fail to make any actual repairs on your car, actually making your car worse.

I don't even bother considering the dealership's "inspection" results. They just take stuff apart and fail to put them back together. They failed to put back the cabin air filter compartment cover one time; I drove all the way from Boise back to Glendale (near Los Angeles) with that cover off the whole way and then didn't notice that the cover was off until several weeks later. That really pissed me off.

Anyways, I change the battery when the cranks get noticeably slower when starting up the engine. I just listen by ear. I bought my Versa Note brand new in September 2013 (6 years, 8.5 months ago) and it has almost 72,000 miles now. The cranks are getting slow now. I'm planning to buy a new T4 or T5 battery this week or next.

On another note, I replaced the battery in my wife's 2015 Kia Soul + about a month ago. She bought it brand new in February 2015 and it had about 51,000 miles on it when I replaced the battery. In her case, the battery completely went out; the car wouldn't even start up. Her Soul has the huge (to me) navigation screen which must eat up a lot of juice. Still, her battery cost ~$98 before taxes and core fee, less than the T4/T5 battery for my bare-bones Versa Note, which is looking to cost me at least $112 before taxes and core fee.
 

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My 2014 was just replaced a few weeks ago. Surprisingly, 6 years old. Of course I drive the car once or twice a week. I bought a new autocraft(with a 3 year warranty) for fear of being left on the road. Who knows how long it could have lasted. I just hope I get 4 years.
 
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