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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a 2010 Versa S 1.6. I have a 2008 Hyundai Accent 5 speed. I made a poor man's short ram by removing the intake snorkel and throwing in a K&N filter, and on my Accent doing so drastically increased my acceleration performance.

Is this possible to do on the 2010 Versa or is the snorkel a pain in the ass to remove?
 

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Very possible to do. I haven't installed an intake yet, but I've easily removed first two plastic bits
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Now keep in mind, I want to retain the functioning air box. So my intent is to remove the snorkel only, with a functioning air box with an open hole to the filter. I have not had a chance to look at the air box yet to see if that will work, hence my question.
 

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There are many others with much more experience than I who will gladly chime in, usually after work hours lol.
We'd love to hear a more in depth comparo between the Accent and Versa when you have time ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have a 10 year high school reunion and a baby shower to handle this weekend, but on Sunday I am going to get under the hood and see what I can do. I am not satisfied with the Versa's low end acceleration, it doesn't compare to my Accent one bit. But I remember my Accent was in similar shape before I did these mods.
 

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Won't notice anything. It's there for a reason... to get cool air flow into the air box from the small panel gap between hood and top cover. Now, that said i don't disagree with using an alternative intake setup, but the stock air scoop must be retained IMO, there is no reason to abandone it. What you could do, is buy an aluminum MAF housing, attach to stock boot from TB to what was the airbox, and put a large surface area cone filter on that MAF housing, then cut off part of the front air scoop, and run some of that race car brake cooling hose directed to the cone filter (or dryer hose, depending on if you care about cosmetics or not).

Alternatively you can cut the MAF sample tube out of the airbox, but of course then you're out one perfectly good airbox.

2 75 OD 70mm OD MAF Housing for Ford Nissan GM Slot Style w Air Straightener | eBay


Air straighteners do help with hot wire MAF's especially if you have bends immediately before and after the MAF sample tube or otherwise don't have a good straight shot/length of piping to get accurate readings and good driveability.
Many ways to skin a cat, you can do it any way you want.
 

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K&N's have an increased flow rate/reduced pressure drop because they filter less... plain and simple. I would advise against K&N's, don't go with one just because it's a bandwagon. I would go with a traditional dry filter such as Amsoil's great Dryflow filters, go with the largest cone or cylindrical filter you can fit, one of the primary goals with these aftermarket intake setups is to increase the surface area of the filtering media to reduce pressure drop.

Honestly unless you have internal mods i highly doubt any of these motors need a cold air intake or benefit from one.
 

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If you put a cone filter on your car in that location, you will get a cool noise but, you will increase your intake air temp dramatically. Because you will be sucking air directly from the engine compartment. Ambient air intakes temps do make a difference. Putting an unshielded intake(SRI)next to the engine is not going to benefit you outside of the cool sucking sound.

I am not trying to start a peeing contest with the other poster with this subject but, I totally agree about using a freer flowing panel filter. Which one is your choice. Always ask questions and do your research.
 

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Which is why i said to retain the stock air scoop at the front of the engine bay and duct it so that outside air is blowing over the filter when moving. If you want a cold air intake, build it yourself with common materials, don't spend $200 for something that delivers marginal (if any) gains, unless you either have money to blow or are making a show car where you need that stupid name brand on your car just for "street cred" or some imaginary pissing contest for who has the most money to blow on the most pointless stuff.
 

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Which is why i said to retain the stock air scoop at the front of the engine bay and duct it so that outside air is blowing over the filter when moving. If you want a cold air intake, build it yourself with common materials, don't spend $200 for something that delivers marginal (if any) gains, unless you either have money to blow or are making a show car where you need that stupid name brand on your car just for "street cred" or some imaginary pissing contest for who has the most money to blow on the most pointless stuff.
Done and done.
 
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