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Car shut off

2547 Views 76 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  snaggz7
Hi! I drive a 2014 Nissan versa note it’s got 170k miles but only 50k miles on the tranny I do doordash in it and I was leaving a customers house and it shut of and I started it again and it shut off again I started it a 3rd time and turned the A/C off and it drove home once I got it there I cranked the ac all the way up with the headlights on to see if it was a bad battery and it drove fine it makes noises and stuff when the ac is on I have had codes for a bad MAF but changed it 2 times does anyone know what I can change or check I have a parts versa with 89k miles I can’t loose my car it’s all I got lol thank you I’m just hoping it isn’t another transmission issue
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Is the check engine light on (now)?? If so, what are the codes??
Did you have to crank it for extended periods to get the car to start??
No it’s been on for a MAF but I cleared it changed the maf and it never came back I have a rough idle with ac on but if it’s off it seems alright I’ve pulled codes for cat bank 1, maf, and airflow all having to do with air but I thought I fixed it a bad maf can’t shut down a car can it and yes I was delivering for 4-1/2 hours and I left it running at a customers house when I got in and put it in reverse and then drove down the road less than a second in it shut off I turned it on and drove and it did it again but the second time it was harder to crank and then it ran fine for a 30 min drive home I’ve been having a lot of problems with it recently I don’t know what it is
(1) Did you reset the computer after installing the new MAF?? (disconnect the battery for 10-15 minutes)

(2) Have you changed the engine air filter lately??

(3) As far as running rough, have you changed the spark plugs lately?? how about fuel injector cleaner??

(4) Can you elaborate on the statement, that you pulled codes for "cat bank 1"?? Was this a P0420 code for the catalytic converter??
I didn’t I drove it because where I bought it said it would auto reset, air filter, plugs and coils, cabin air filter, all have been replaced back in July and everything was new except the coils they came out of the parts car but yes fuel injector cleaner I use Lucas I used it a few weeks ago and yes when the MAF started acting up I pulled P0420, and P0101 I replaced the filter and they went away?
I'm not 100% sure that is right or wrong. Since it doesn't cost anything, I'd disconnect the battery for 15-20 minutes and let the computer reset itself.

You will lose your radio presets, but you can put those back in, just write down the stations.
That’s fine lol I don’t need them I never preset them the old woman who had it before me had country set on it I just don’t know what to do I’ve heard a fuel regulator is a common issue as is the MAF I’ve only ever replaced the sensor could it be a VAC leak? It’s got like no power as it is I have to have the throttle down past halfway to even get it to back out of the yard
The P0420 code is "low catalyst system efficiency" which (usually) means the catalytic converter has gone bad or your downstream 02 sensor is bad. Most of the time it is a bad cat and with 170K on the car, I'm thinking your catalytic converter is worn out or clogged.
The hard starting and general decline of the car has me thinking the catalytic converter is clogged causing back pressure.
Where you live, do you have to take your car through any periodic inspections?? Emissions or general inspections?? Anything like that??
Yes I’m in nc so I have a yearly full system performance inspection bad cats fail as does rough or rich running and it passed not but 8 months ago back in April I believe I’m coming due on another it’s not pulling a cat code now so I’m unsure if that’s what it is when it died as soon as it drove again it had 0 lights on the dash I drove it for about 45 minutes today and it didn’t have any problems (aside from the cvts normal hard shift in the first gear) it’s a new transmission and I have the fluid changed every 30k I’m coming due on another (51k) as of now that’s all that’s on the tranny brand new from Nissan so I assumed it wasn’t that
OK... so it appears you have an intermittent problem. You don't have a current "check engine" light, but there may be some stored codes that could shed some light on the problem.
(1)Do you have access to an OBD2 scanner?? (borrow one from a friend??)

(2) When you drove the car today, was it hard starting??

(3) Did you try disconnecting the battery for 15-20 minutes (to clear the computer)??

(4) Anything different you did today, as opposed to the day when it was acting up??

(5) When you turn the key on and before you engage the starter, can you briefly hear the fuel pump (listen carefully, it isn't very loud)??
It still starts first crank it only hard started the second time I tried to start it yesterday my dad has one I’ll try and borrow tomorrow mine got stolen on a car I sold lol I couldn’t hear the pump today I haven’t ever had any trouble with it but I have got a noticeable decrease in gas mileage (33mpg) it was getting 41 when I bought it I will try the battery in the morning before I get ready to leave is there a relearn process? The only thing different is I didn’t drive it for 5 hours straight today I did yesterday and shut it off only briefly but never long enough to cool off it’s only ever broke down once other than this when a mechanic I took it to left the rad cap off and it was refilled and it’s been absolutely fine since then that’s was 4 months ago and this is something else, I don’t have the money for a actual mechanic now I’ve got $30 to my name but I have a whole 89k parts car which is why I’m trying to fix this on my own thank you for helping me
The fact that your gas mileage has gone down significantly, worries me. It does sound like the car may be running rich. From what I understand, when you disconnect the battery, the car should attempt to re-learn on its own.

It will also reset all the monitors, (which may help) as the car will run a "drive cycle" and look for problems. It will communicate any problems it finds in the form of a "check engine" light and associated codes. With those codes, we'll attempt to use parts off your "parts car" to repair your ride.

When you borrow your father's OBD2 reader, try to get the fuel trim numbers. I'm pretty rusty on fuel trims, so I'll need to re-educate myself.

And yes... I know what it is like to be down to my last $30. I'm hopeful we'll figure this out and be able to utilize parts off of your "parts car".
thank you! So so so much I take care of a 73 year old and my fiancé who is disabled and this car is how I get them around lol so I can’t afford to loose it I start a job next month so couldn’t be worse timing than now, my parts car was made in the same factory a month after mine was ironically I’m not very mechanically savvy but I can change basic parts messing with fuel seems scary I’ll disconnect the battery in the morning and then I’ll either take it to my dads or to advance auto and borrow theirs I think it has live data but not sure I really really appreciate how nice you’ve been and agreed to help me! I love my versa I don’t wanna see her go out the woman before me abused the heck out of it (ac was broke, oil changes only when pressure light came on, wrecked in front and back, air filters were never changed, gas only when at a quarter tank, and she would slam on the accelerator at a stop, no tune ups… ever, belts the same I need to change that)she lived on a dirt road and the no air filters clogged the blower motor and she I brought her back when I got it and only recently had issues with it it may be running rich and stalling because it runs really really rough when first started on a cold day and then smooths out
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Yes... glad to (attempt) to help. For the record, I'm an "old school shade tree" mechanic, I was an accountant for over 30 years, so "wrenching" on cars was a hobby that I enjoyed with my Dad. I still do most (but not all) of my own car repairs, although my Versa has just needed maintenance... so far.

It seems I do more wrenching on my girlfriend's old Dodge Neon than anything else. She loves that car, so I'm doing my best to keep it alive.

Yes... back in my day, when the car ran rich, you adjusted the mixture screw on the carburetor. Those days are long gone.
So I drove it for about 35 minutes and here are the pics from the obd it’s still running rough the advance guy said I can’t do that and unhook the battery for 10 minutes because it messes with the computer oh well did it anyway lol
Telephony Communication Device Output device Portable communications device Audio equipment

Telephony Communication Device Portable communications device Gadget Mobile device

Communication Device Telephony Gadget Portable communications device Gas

Communication Device Gadget Output device Audio equipment Gas

Telephony Communication Device Mobile device Portable communications device Gadget

Telephony Communication Device Portable communications device Gadget Mobile device

Gadget Gas Display device Font Multimedia

Telephony Portable communications device Mobile phone Communication Device Mobile device

Plant Gadget Communication Device Measuring instrument Gas

Communication Device Gadget Telephony Portable communications device Display device
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Advance said battery had no reserve
I don’t have any of that unfortunately I did think of a VAC leak myself and checked the hoses I undid months ago but couldn’t find a loose connection, I would be able to do what’s in that vid lol, I don’t know how to read any of that data it just told me that it was fine aside from the battery, I did only drive it a few hours today I’m sure a long term drive would make more problems apparent to the system, the parts car I bought from a junkyard for 300 bucks they cut the cats off of it it might still have the sensors but I know it runs and drives they just wouldn’t give me the cars cats… b holes lol does anything else jump out?
I looked at the rest of the numbers last night.
(1) The oxygen sensors voltage is a bit high, so it could be that
(2) The VPWR is low (voltage), which reinforces the fact that your battery is getting weak, but you already knew that (from the Advance Auto guy). I'm not convinced that a weak battery could upset the computer enough to cause a rich condition.

As far as vacuum leaks, the car is used and you don't know who has been there before you. A pinched gasket here or there and you have a small vacuum leak. I'd also check around the intake manifold and ALL the vacuum hoses.
dang could be why I was pulling cat codes before, I don’t think it could cause stalling, I will look through the engine bay do you know how much shops charge to go a vacuum test? I have a shop I use that does my transmission fluid for $150 which I have found is extremely cheap maybe I’ll call them I just don’t think I’d have the cash lol unless it’s like $20 I might attempt that vid you sent me
Well I’ll have to look for the sensors on the car I don’t know how hard they are to change but I can’t imagine too hard I’ve got ramps and a Jack, isn’t lean and rich causing more combustion either way and therefore using more gas? I have no idea I checked my hoses and my air box the air box is dirty but I also live on a dirt road so maybe it’s clogged? Or the cats are clogged? Does any of that “fix in a bottle” work? Also I noticed my belt is extremely playable and loose and spoke with a mechanic is that a major fix they quoted me $150 to replace a belt that seems crazy I’m starting a job soon and I wanted to get some maintenance done when I got my first check but $150 for a serpentine belt seems insane idk I need this fixed before I start because it won’t make the drive right now
Nope... The few people I know who have tried it were not successful.
Dang how do unclog it then?
I'm not 100% sure. I think it depends where the leak is and if its before or after the MAF. I started doing research and attempting figure out this vehicle's symptoms. The poor gas mileage, rough running and hard starting. I stumbled across three possibilities that would meet that criteria. (1) Vacuum Leak (2) Faulty Oxygen Sensor(s) (3) Faulty IAT sensor (I don't think his Versa has an IAT) Being that this poster was down to his last $30, I thought testing for a vacuum leak would fit in his budget and answer some of the symptoms or at least we could rule that out. We needed to start attempting to rule out some of the possibilities, without firing the "parts cannon" at his Versa. Something is telling the ECU to add more fuel, thus his FLI% is high (should be at 14.7% - approximately). He has changed the MAF twice, so I can't imagine both MAF(s) were bad. I guess that could be a possibility, just unlikely. As I have stated numerous times, I'm a "shade tree" mechanic at best. I learned to fix cars with my Dad as a hobby when they had points and condensers and carburetors. Attempting to keep up with the latest technology is quite taxing. I'm sure the original poster will welcome any and all help to fix his Versa.
I really appreciate your helping me I’ve looked for pinched hoses and hadn’t spotted any but they might be underneath as it’s a compact space I will look on the parts versa for sensors, iat no but it has a MAP sensor which I was told could be causing it as well but I am unsure
You don't unclog them... you replace them.
Personally, I've had good luck with catalytic converters I purchased off of ebay. (One on a Pontiac and one on my GM work truck) I sold the Pontiac, but still have my truck. The one on my old GM work truck came from Canada, but I don't remember the manufacturer.
I hesitate to recommend ebay cats as some people have NOT had good luck with them.
You might also want to look at rockauto for a catalytic converter.
At this point, I think its prudent to attempt to rule out other possibilities, before firing the "parts cannon" at the car, as you said you don't have the cats from the parts car.
Yes that’s true I wish I did as nc requires complete functioning cats to pass a car and I’m due for a inspection next month luckily it’s only $20 but I am due I also got context from the incident all lights were still on the dash the car just stopped running but was still “on” and it started fine the first time turning back on the second time was really really rough to start took a few cranks sounded like a old car from the 50s cranking but then rode fine and I have been driving it since as it hasn’t really done it again the battery is barely starting it now I’m gonna see if the previous owner still has a warranty on it, it runs rough mostly in cold weather so I don’t know if that info is helpful
Yeah our was replaced with one that’s a lot smaller than the original water battery with the holes on top hoping Walmart will replace the battery and that it’s still under warranty, I’ll look into replacing the map sensor, and I hate the heat
Couldn’t stand it if we lived in it
How is the battery in the "parts car"??
Not the right size unless I can somehow raise the positive terminal the negative fits but the positive is too short
How is the battery in the "parts car"??
Update:: TCS light came on and stayed on while parked and then all the way home (20 mins) and is still on now, car didn’t seem to have any problems, battery has gotten worse and when headlights are (on) all dashboard lights dim completely, and I cannot run A/C, Charger, heat nothing it’s a miracle my brakes still work. I am thinking battery is not producing enough power for secondary systems, your thoughts? TPMS system is on due to the parts car coming with better tires and I just swapped wheels.
The TPMS light will be on because the sensors (inside the tires) aren't matched with the sensor numbers in the computer. Check your air pressure (for the time being) and have the computer reprogrammed to match the sensors (when you get money)

In regards to the dimming of the lights, I'm thinking the alternator should be able to keep all that OK while the car is running (unless the alternator is going bad, also). A bad alternator will cause a battery to go bad quicker, as well. Some auto parts places will have a battery load tester which also doubles as a alternator checker. My load tester checks both alternator and battery.

I don't know about TCS light.

Maybe call a couple of auto parts stores and see if they will test both the alternator and the battery.
Well I’ve known for awhile that my serpentine belt is bad it’s been causing a rough idle and making noises upon researching it I did break down from my car dropping all fluid and I filled it up and haven’t leaked since they said when it happened the water pump went out but tested it and did it was good…. And my car did stall, now the battery is having no reserve power and the AC is making the car run rough I’m thinking that the belt is causing all of my problems. Your thoughts? The shop quoted me $125 for trans fluid and $175 for a belt should I try doing it myself?
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