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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi everyone,

My car started stuttering the other day after admittedly driving it a little hard on the highway (had to rush my wife to the airport). The jerking motions are noticable at low speeds - specifically if you maintain the car below 40 Kph but it disappears when accelerating. The check engine light came on for a few hours then was gone by the next day.

Had this problem for about two days now.

My car's an '07 sedan, automatic CVT transmission.

Your assistance will greatly be appreciated.

Thanks
 

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Hi everyone,

My car started stuttering the other day after admittedly driving it a little hard on the highway (had to rush my wife to the airport). The jerking motions are noticable at low speeds - specifically if you maintain the car below 40 Kph but it disappears when accelerating. The check engine light came on for a few hours then was gone by the next day.

Had this problem for about two days now.

My car's an '07 sedan, automatic CVT transmission.

Your assistance will greatly be appreciated.

Thanks
You may have picked up some bad gas containing water at your last fill up. You might try some of the fuel enhancement treatments sold at most auto supply stores. Drygas is one that is supposed to remove moisture from gasoline, and has worked for me in the past. I believe that StarTron also makes fuel additives that will remove water. Good luck!!!
 

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No code? Was the check engine light blinking? Usually a blinking light means a misfire and bad fuel sounds like a good cause. Performance issues are hard to pin down. Could also be a stuck pcv valve or egr.
 

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If they run ethanol in your fuel there is really zero need for any sort of drygas measure as the ethanol itself performs that function.
 

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If they run ethanol in your fuel there is really zero need for any sort of drygas measure as the ethanol itself performs that function.
Ethanol myths

MYTH: fuel additives can cure or prevent all issues from ethanol-blended fuel.

TRUTH: there is no practical additive that can prevent phase separation from occurring. The only practical solution is to keep water from accumulating in the tank in the first place. In addition to using high-quality fuel additives, you should purchase quality fuel from trusted sources, check fuel filters and fuel tanks periodically for sediment and water, and keep up with manufacturer-recommended preventative maintenance schedules.

MYTH: Fuel additives can make phase-separated fuel (that has separated into layers of water and low-octane gas) usable.

TRUTH: “Bad” fuel should be completely removed and replaced with fresh fuel. Nothing can rejuvenate old fuel. To prevent fuel from going bad, most manufacturers recommend high-quality fuel additives to prevent sediment, gum and varnish buildup that forms when fuel goes bad, control moisture, help prevent phase separation and prevent fuel system corrosion.
 

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Well..... I still think bad fuel could be the issue. I ran e85 in a honda insight and when it was below freezing I got a cel for trim out of adjustment. I dont know if nissan makes flex fuel vehicles for other countries or if where the op lives they sell different grades of fuel and ethanol.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi Guys!

Sorry for the delayed response. But it turns out that one of my spark plugs wasn't firing well. So the diagnostic machine read a cylinder misfire.
Switched the coil from the misfiring cylinder just to ensure that it wasn't the culprit too - turned out it was OK so just replaced the set of plugs with Iridium tipped ones.

Car runs fine now.

I suspect the shop I've been taking it for regular service didn't replace the plugs the last time. I suspect a lot of things weren't done that I paid for whenever I took my car there.

Never going back there again.

Anyway, thanks everyone for the input, you've all been much help.

Thanks!
 

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Hi Guys!

Sorry for the delayed response. But it turns out that one of my spark plugs wasn't firing well. So the diagnostic machine read a cylinder misfire.
Switched the coil from the misfiring cylinder just to ensure that it wasn't the culprit too - turned out it was OK so just replaced the set of plugs with Iridium tipped ones.

Car runs fine now.

I suspect the shop I've been taking it for regular service didn't replace the plugs the last time. I suspect a lot of things weren't done that I paid for whenever I took my car there.

Never going back there again.

Anyway, thanks everyone for the input, you've all been much help.

Thanks!
Than you for getting back to us with the answer to your problem. Sometimes we are just left to wonder what the outcome was.
 

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I would of expected that from Nigeria, not Kenya. Glad you figured it out. Should of been some misfire codes or blinking check engine light. The blinking check engine like is a universal sign in most cars of a misfire.
 

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I repeat post #4 , that has not changed. The ethanol doing what I said is why the fuel separates, and you CAN use the gasoline portion once phase separated as the ethanol is the bad part then. I pour off the gas portion and use it all day long in the lawn mower and it runs fine. Look at the contents of most gas dryers, they are isopropyl or ethanol alcohol in content.
 

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Ethanol gas is the number one reason for a small engine ( lawn mower, chain saw, snow blower, atv) to have a problem or failure. It breaks down and gums up the fuel system. Especially when the machine has been sitting a while.
BTW how is gasoline more expensive than gasoline plus ethanol.
1 < 1+1 right? Lets see...
Fuel to plant crop
Water to grow crop
Pesticide (fuel x2) to grow crop
Fuel to harvest crop
Fuel to transport crop to storage
Fuel to transport crop to ethanol plant
Water, fuel, electricity to turn crop into ethanol
Ethanol added to gasoline
Fuel to get Ethanol+gasoline all over the country
Fuel to get new fuel filters from parts store
And each time the fuel is turned in to c02. How is that better for the environment?
But the gas pump says 1>1+1
oh thats right its because 2+2=5
 

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The ethanol is cheaper because the government pays a subsidy for the plants to make it. I used to print ethanol company financial reports. I'd bet it still costs roughly between $6-$7/gal. like it used to but once the subsidy kicks in it cost maybe $2.50 when gasoline was $3.50. Why you have such issues with ethanol % creep like we do here, the legal number is 10% for E10 but commonly at that the number often tests out at up to 20%. Since they cannot pipeline ethanol (check out the multimillion dollar pipe damages Exxon suffered way back when they first insisted it could be piped, needless to say they got the picture quick!) they truck it in and then easy to simply tilt the fuel with more ethanol to gain more profit locally. It got so bad here in the North Texas area all the dealers started testing fuel on every car coming in for warranty fuel system repairs and found that many cars had way too much ethanol and instant voiding of all warranty then.

Ethanol laced fuel burns cleaner with less CO and CO2 than straight gasoline but the main difference is the amount of electrical power needed to make it pushes it to cost more in energy use, and the mileage drops when it's added too. Gasoline 14.7/1 A/F ratio, ethanol around 9/1 or so. Another big reason to tilt the fuel, it sells more product. Funny, it burns cleaner but more of it needed and then the advantage disappears. So, any savings there are absolutely fake.

I personally loathe the stuff but forced to live with it here.

OP's initial problem could have easily been from swallowing a small amount of water borne in by fuel, I've had it happen to me before. Ethanol is pretty much transparent when running a car constantly but you have no control over what has happened to the fuel before you buy it. Get some DA to store it while letting air get to it and you got a problem.
 

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Back in the day the idea was to use the crops famers could grow in abundance to make ethanol to supplement our fuel needs vs pay the farmers to not grow certain grains, etc.

Also other things like grass clippings, old newspapers, and other organic matter can also be made into ethanol.

Well, sadly it got screwed up and ungreened when the rubber hits the road. Kind of like the whole biodiesel/veggie fuel thing. Its one to use old dirty oil to fuel a vehicle, its another to mix clean oil with methanol(SP?) to make diesel.

At least mixing solar, wind, hydro, coal, LP, Nuclear power seems to not care what is going down or up the wire. I say up incase you got a few panels and grid tie inverters. >:D
 

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Here, I use fuel out in the open and no smoking to clean parts for car work, the cheapest solvent. On a humid day you will see water form in the bottom of the gas in about 5 minutes of mixing it up washing parts. It gets cloudy too as the phase separation thing happens.
 

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Kerosene is way too oily and leaves residue, the ethanol has one great effect, due to being water miscible it allows gasoline to rinse off by use of water to leave pretty much bone dry parts capable of even being painted when dry, or epoxy can be used on it with great adhesion. Just try that with kerosene...............

I don't waste any time with water based degreasers of any sort other than Pinesol for like carb parts, that stuff will eat holes in the parts if you are not super careful. The rest of the water based degreasers are too expensive and don't work for squat to me.
 
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