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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone! I'm new so I hope I am going about this correctly. I have a 2012 Versa Sedan SL 1.6. Before Christmas the check engine light came on and I took it to Advance Auto to read the code. They said it was showing the upstream oxygen sensor was faulty. I ordered both upstream and downstream (figured if one went the other was soon to follow) sensors online, both being Bosch. My local garage installed both and reset the engine light. It stayed off for about 1 1/2 days. I took it back in and they inspected it but they could not find a problem. I ordered a second upstream sensor, this time from a Japanese company which I forget at the moment, NGK or something similar, like the Bosh supposedly OEM replacement compatible. Had it installed and reset and sure enough, the next day the light was back on. I decided I had had enough of this, so I took it to Nissan to see if the wiring between the sensor and the engine had a broken wire, or corrosion or something. The wiring checked out but they found a small air leak in the exhaust manifold gasket so they replaced that and reset the light. The next day....oh you are ahead of me aren't you?....the light came back on. I was about to have my oil changed at another garage that I use occasionally, and they gave it the once over and found a fairly loose hose clamp somewhere on the intake side. They tightened that and....have you heard this song before?....the next day the light came back on. They did reread the codes the next day ant it was P0037 and P2A00. Up to now I have been VERY reluctant to purchase the ORIGINAL NISSAN Part since it is outrageously expensive....even our local Nissan Service people admitted the same. But they said that some cars are picky and require OEM parts. The way I figure it, probably only a handful of companies make these parts, and that shouldn't be an issue. I am about to roll the dice for a THIRD time and get a Walker...which they claim are made on the same assembly lines as the original, but I thought I would check with you good folks first. I find it hard to believe I would be the only one with this problem, so I'm coming to you folks with a zillion miles of Versa experience under your belt. Anyway, thanks for reading and hope someone out there has the silver bullet for my problem. All the best....Don
 

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From a quick search, P0037 is a heater circuit malfunction, bank 1, sensor 2. Given our Versii only have one bank, this is the sensor downstream of the catalytic converter.

I would stop throwing new sensors at the problem if this is the exact code that persists. If it is, the circuit that supplies power to the heater element portion of the sensor is not getting power and needs to be troubleshot. O2 sensors will still work if their heaters are inop, but you will get a check engine light.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
From a quick search, P0037 is a heater circuit malfunction, bank 1, sensor 2. Given our Versii only have one bank, this is the sensor downstream of the catalytic converter.

I would stop throwing new sensors at the problem if this is the exact code that persists. If it is, the circuit that supplies power to the heater element portion of the sensor is not getting power and needs to be troubleshot. O2 sensors will still work if their heaters are inop, but you will get a check engine light.
Proman, Thanks so very much for this info. Does this circuit that supplies power to the heater element have its own fuse? If not, I guess my Nissan dealer needs to look at that particular circuit. MrA
 

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It should have it's own fuse or some form of circuit interruption in a power distribution module. Heated O2 sensors will have 4 wires. Two for the sensor/signal and two for the heater.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It should have it's own fuse or some form of circuit interruption in a power distribution module. Heated O2 sensors will have 4 wires. Two for the sensor/signal and two for the heater.
OK....sounds like something Nissan needs to look at. Just surprised....well, maybe not.....that Nissan didn't find it when I had it in with this problem last time. I guess they thought that leaky gasket was the problem and looked no farther. Again, amy thanks! MrA
 

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Discussion Starter #8
P.S. I was just wondering, could the vacuum leak be a worn gas cap? MrA
 

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Hello everyone! I'm new so I hope I am going about this correctly. I have a 2012 Versa Sedan SL 1.6. Before Christmas the check engine light came on and I took it to Advance Auto to read the code. They said it was showing the upstream oxygen sensor was faulty. I ordered both upstream and downstream (figured if one went the other was soon to follow) sensors online, both being Bosch. My local garage installed both and reset the engine light. It stayed off for about 1 1/2 days. I took it back in and they inspected it but they could not find a problem. I ordered a second upstream sensor, this time from a Japanese company which I forget at the moment, NGK or something similar, like the Bosh supposedly OEM replacement compatible. Had it installed and reset and sure enough, the next day the light was back on. I decided I had had enough of this, so I took it to Nissan to see if the wiring between the sensor and the engine had a broken wire, or corrosion or something. The wiring checked out but they found a small air leak in the exhaust manifold gasket so they replaced that and reset the light. The next day....oh you are ahead of me aren't you?....the light came back on. I was about to have my oil changed at another garage that I use occasionally, and they gave it the once over and found a fairly loose hose clamp somewhere on the intake side. They tightened that and....have you heard this song before?....the next day the light came back on. They did reread the codes the next day ant it was P0037 and P2A00. Up to now I have been VERY reluctant to purchase the ORIGINAL NISSAN Part since it is outrageously expensive....even our local Nissan Service people admitted the same. But they said that some cars are picky and require OEM parts. The way I figure it, probably only a handful of companies make these parts, and that shouldn't be an issue. I am about to roll the dice for a THIRD time and get a Walker...which they claim are made on the same assembly lines as the original, but I thought I would check with you good folks first. I find it hard to believe I would be the only one with this problem, so I'm coming to you folks with a zillion miles of Versa experience under your belt. Anyway, thanks for reading and hope someone out there has the silver bullet for my problem. All the best....Don
thats nott cheap i have 2010 nisan versa sl with 108kmi on odometer my headlight melted the power plug on back of lamp i think someone piut led or xenon in halogen ju/st doesnt get that hot then i beleive at time bu/lb melted plu/g the wire short ciru/ited and tripped fuse link on positive battery cable going from alternator and now i gotta booster pack to start engine since alternator ou/t of charging circuit and trickle of electrical juice getting to alternstor to excite field to generate electrivcity in alternator technician blamed it on gas situ/ation not likely/. ill replace link when i get 15$ and a app that does electrical system voltage and amperage readings on app themes know any ?
 

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thats nott cheap i have 2010 nisan versa sl with 108kmi on odometer my headlight melted the power plug on back of lamp i think someone piut led or xenon in halogen ju/st doesnt get that hot then i beleive at time bu/lb melted plu/g the wire short ciru/ited and tripped fuse link on positive battery cable going from alternator and now i gotta booster pack to start engine since alternator ou/t of charging circuit and trickle of electrical juice getting to alternstor to excite field to generate electrivcity in alternator technician blamed it on gas situ/ation not likely/. ill replace link when i get 15$ and a app that does electrical system voltage and amperage readings on app themes know any ?car runs after booster jump fine wants to heat up maybe or compartment filter was removed im not to worried but changing the coils on plugs and plugs been done about 100k and so called tune up. o2 sensor next and then destruction to throttle body trick
 

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thats nott cheap i have 2010 nisan versa sl with 108kmi on odometer my headlight melted the power plug on back of lamp i think someone piut led or xenon in halogen ju/st doesnt get that hot then i beleive at time bu/lb melted plu/g the wire short ciru/ited and tripped fuse link on positive battery cable going from alternator and now i gotta booster pack to start engine since alternator ou/t of charging circuit and trickle of electrical juice getting to alternstor to excite field to generate electrivcity in alternator technician blamed it on gas situ/ation not likely/. ill replace link when i get 15$ and a app that does electrical system voltage and amperage readings on app themes know any ? fuselink suspected 14$ part but hglad not high tech cars they are engine and precise and will go 300kmi. once got parts to put in cheap is easier or economically the way to repair think it ou/t and history of repairs and keep your own records too to look back and dyagnose computers design the beasts of burden i hope to get 300k -500kmi on odometer if not a million oh yeah my relatives own a volvo shop
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Check Engine Light: I'm back again!!!!!

Well I copied every reply Poman and printed it out. My wife scheduled a visit this morning with Nissan and showed them what you had recommended to me. Here is their print out reply:

"Customer states: Check engine light is back on, have replaced the intake gasket (was told it was exhaust last time) and an upstream sensor (I did it twice, but they never replaced the upstream sensor). Still not fixed, check and advise.
Checked heater circuit of downstream 02 sensor, heater circuit has 12v which is the Nissan speck. Checked continuity of 02 heater output signal circuit. Circuit has no excess resistance (0.01 ohms) and is also in Nissan specs. Also tested both circuts for shorts to both power and ground. both te4sted OK. Visually inspected harness (they were supposed to do this last time, another look wouldn't hurt) for damage and none found. Per Nissan repair manual, if all the above tests good vehicle needs a new oxygen sensor. Priced a Nissan Factory downstream oxygen for code P0037 $410 plus taxes."

I had the downstream sensor replaced when the the check engine light came on showing a problem with the upstream. I figured I would have both replaced while I was at it. It is a Bosch.

OK folks, I'm pulling out whats left of my hair. Now what? (I am not paying $410 for something that should be brand new I can get for less than $100!!!) Thanks.....MrA
 

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Could be the Bosch O2 sensor itself. Those can be hit or miss in terms of quality and compatibility.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
OK....what does anyone know about Walker? They make a big deal on their website that their parts....in this case O2 sensors....are manufactured on the same assembly lines as original equipment. Anyone have any experience with them? Thanks! MrA
 

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They probably mean Bosch assembly lines. It's always funny to hear about how bad Bosch O2 sensors can be since they INVENTED O2 technology as we know it. The Walker name is nothing special.

OP, if you have a problem with ECM itself intermittently dropping the O2 heater signal you could have problems there. If the wiring harness has a break in it that shows say only on bumps then the tech can test all day and come up with good results yet part still be flawed. Myself I would begin to look very closely at the connector there.

I see no mention of the actual output of the sensor signal at all. No mention of heater actually working either, if you have 12 volt and heater doesn't work how does one know that? Say it was broken but still had a connection bypassing the resistance to not heat? Did the tech at least hold the sensor long enough for it to get warm in his hand? You can short the heater itself yet not have a short to 'power or ground'.

The techs give up pretty quick when they start losing money. I for one would likely jack into the 12 volt heater input and drive the car around looking at it to see if it drops out somewhere. Don't expect them to do that.

'Checked continuity of 02 heater output signal circuit. Circuit has no excess resistance (0.01 ohms)...'

Wondering about that one. See 'bypassing' 3 paragraghs up. If the heater in sensor itself is the typical resistance type there should be a certain amount of ohm simply to reflect the heater portion itself. That amount given seems too low for that. Can't say as I would have to go to parts store and measure a few to get an idea. Tech DOES say 'excess' so there may have been a subtraction for that as well.

Not all solutions are within grasp of the dealers, they only care about the ones that make them big money. I've proven that a thousand times myself. One never has any idea of what was actually done unless they stand over him to watch him do it. He may have just written that 'work done' to get the big part sale. It is common to cover up smaller errors found with bigger parts sales and the dealers are adept at that steering procedure.
 

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While we could argue quality, there is also compatibility that needs to be taken into account.
The part may be manufactured to OEM specs, but the part just might not work with the ECM, and still throw codes.
Cheap is not always the best solution.
Were it me, I would go with either Nissan OEM, or Denso.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
amc49, Thank you for your detailed input about the problem. Sadly, it sounds a bit like looking for a needle in a haystack with all the possibilities. I am having the Versa in for an oil change next week at a differnt garage, and I will ask them to check the connector that you recommend as being the best place to start. I think you nailed it when you spoke of the dealer not wanting to mess with anything that doesn't result in a bigger proffit. The sad thing is that they could throw a genuine Nissan part on it, tack on the labor to bring it to $400, and still not solve the problem. (one honest person in the service department even said as much). Again, I will keep my fingers crossed that there is a bent pin in the connector that can be easily seen, otherwise I may be forced to live with the light. (Well, until I cover it with tape anyway!) Sadly as we know, the problem isn't the light because of the codes, it doesn't idle correctly and the gas milage has dropped. Thanks again! MrA
 
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