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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I started my Nissan Versa SL 08 a few days ago and noticed the check engine light was on. I went to an auto zone to for the free diagnostic, and it was throwing the code P1421.

It turns out there is a service bulletin for this, with the possible causes listed as:

- Lack of intake air volume (block air filter)
- Fuel injection system (Clogged fuel injector or bad fuel pump)
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)

I am not experiencing any "drivability" or starting problems so I am assuming the ECM is faulty. Of course I don't want to pay ~$100 bucks for the dealer to reprogram the ECM so I tried resetting it. I disconnected the battery and it was a no go. Then I tried the pedal trick (key in, wait 3 seconds, press accelerator 5 times, wait 7 seconds, hold accelerator for 10 seconds) and the light still came on.

After that I tried replacing the engine air filter and reset the ECU using the pedal sequence. Initially, that seemed to work--the check engine light was no longer on. I drove for maybe 30 miles and then the check engine light would come on for a second and shut off again. I parked the car for maybe 10 minutes and, on start-up, the light came back on and did not shut off. In total I have gone about 60 miles with the new air filter and don't seem to be using any more fuel than normal.

Is there anything else I can try before taking it to the dealer?

Thanks!

P.S. Would this fix be covered under the 96 months/80,000 Federal Vehicle Emission Control Limited Warranty since, according to this, the ECU affects vehicle emissions?
 

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Nissan pedal dance

A few months ago, I cleaned the throttle body on my 07 Versa. Two months later, my CEL came on and the code indicated something about the air flow. I did a LOT of reading on other Nissan forums about what all can be accomplished with the "pedal dance". Apparently the pedal dance sequences are the same for most all Nissans.

I don't have the links here (they are bookmarked on my Nook at home), but in addition to reading and clearing codes, variations of the pedal dance can be used to re-learn some of the air flow characteristics. It is a long shot, but look around on other Nissan forums and you will find some computer re-learning steps using the pedal dance. It fixed my problem. Could save you a bunch of money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, the light came on this morning and stayed on during my entire commute to work. Funnily enough, it did not come on when I started the car to head home in the evening. Here's to hoping it doesn't come back on.
 

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The most common reason for the check engine light to come on is the gas cap not fitting tightly. Did you fill the tank recently? If the cap isn't on tight, the pressure in the tank drops as it empties and the light comes on. When you fill it back up and screw the lid on tight, the light goes out after a few miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
In case anyone is interested in how I resolved the problem, I replaced the engine air filter (a few dollar and a couple minutes fix) and the light eventually went off and never came back on. I'm not sure if a dirty engine air filter was the problem, but the light hasn't come on since.
 

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which was number 1 on your list in the first post! Congrats on the easy fix. I should really changed mine. I don't think I have done it in 60k miles. Maybe 90k:eek6:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
which was number 1 on your list in the first post! Congrats on the easy fix. I should really changed mine. I don't think I have done it in 60k miles. Maybe 90k:eek6:
Okay, I'm not superstitious, but sometimes I wonder...

I turn on my car today --the very day I posted what I had done and saying I had no further problems, even though the "fix" was done months ago-- and the check engine light is on. Turns out it's flashing the same code. I don't get it.

I'll have to troubleshoot it later this weekend.
 

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Okay, I'm not superstitious, but sometimes I wonder...

I turn on my car today --the very day I posted what I had done and saying I had no further problems, even though the "fix" was done months ago-- and the check engine light is on. Turns out it's flashing the same code. I don't get it.

I'll have to troubleshoot it later this weekend.
I know this thread was back in 2012 but what was the resolution?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I know this thread was back in 2012 but what was the resolution?
r2urbo, I never had a permanent fix.

It comes on occasionally (few times a year), generally more often when the weather is cold. For now, I just plug in my wifi OBDII device and clear the code with my phone. If I don't clear the code it will eventually go away on its own--it could take a day or it could take a week.
 

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r2urbo, I never had a permanent fix.

It comes on occasionally (few times a year), generally more often when the weather is cold. For now, I just plug in my wifi OBDII device and clear the code with my phone. If I don't clear the code it will eventually go away on its own--it could take a day or it could take a week.
thank you @nissanversa08
 

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Just an update. I took my 2010 Nissan Versa SL Hatchback to the Nissan dealership and they determined it was the ECM issue. They reprogrammed it for free because it was still under warranty.
 

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r2urbo, I never had a permanent fix.

It comes on occasionally (few times a year), generally more often when the weather is cold. For now, I just plug in my wifi OBDII device and clear the code with my phone. If I don't clear the code it will eventually go away on its own--it could take a day or it could take a week.
I have the same problem. The check engine light comes on more often during the cold weather. No problem at all in summer. I simply clear the code using an OBD II scanner. Been almost seeing this problem and no problem with my car so far.
Someone suggested that it could be a dirty throttle body, cleaned it without removing it from the car. But, the code still came out when the weather went below freezing. Now, I doubt it might be related to a vacuum leak in the car. Next time when the code comes I will see if there is any vacuum leak. My car has 140K, so I am also considering cleaning the fuel injector. Let's see what happens. It's not a real problem, as once I clear it, it wouldn't come back for 300-400 miles.
 

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There is a bulletin that addresses this issue with a software update. If you already got the update, you could try cleaning the throttle body, performing the "pedal dance" for idle air volume learning, accelerator pedal released position learning, and the throttle closed position learning.
 

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There is a bulletin that addresses this issue with a software update. If you already got the update, you could try cleaning the throttle body, performing the "pedal dance" for idle air volume learning, accelerator pedal released position learning, and the throttle closed position learning.
Where can I find the link? How do I update the software? Is it the obd2 software that needs to be connected to in order to update?
 

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I don't have a link for it but I believe this page has one somewhere.

You can't do the update yourself so it's gotta go to the dealer or other shop that does oem module updates, but most don't. I'd just bring it to the dealer and pay the hour.

They might want to try to diagnose it (I would) but you can tell them that you saw that code and a technician told you there is an ecm update that fixes it. If you do it in a 'just throwing it out there" type of way, they may not charge you for any diag. Who knows though. Most places don't charge if they are aware of a bulletin like this. It's just that it can be really annoying when customers insist that they know the problem because they read it online, it doesn't go well when they're wrong.

Good luck!

Sent from my moto g fast using Tapatalk
 
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