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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone, I hope this message finds you well.

The other day, my 2007 1.8 automatic started stuttering. My usual mechanic was out of the country, so I took it to another shop. They hooked up the car to a scanner and said it was coil #3 . $155 for the coil, $70 for plugging in the scanner and $70 in labor later, the problem was solved.

2 days later the problem started again. This time my usual mechanic was in. I told him what had happened and he came home to try to fix it. The first thing he told me is they had screwed me with the coil price, but they had at least actually changed it. This time it was coil #2 , but he looked a little further and found a rubber gasket on one of the 3 computer hook ups to be broken and it was starting to show some corrosion. He cleaned it up and found a few pins were starting to corrode. He took the computer to a local computer shop. They opened it up, made sure the corrosion had not been running through inside of the computer. They further cleaned it up, tested it and said everything should be fine. The mechanic came back and tested the car, but it was still stuttering, so he changed coil #2 , like the scanner said. He only charged me $220, $100 for the computer shop, $60 for the coil and the rest for his labor. Though I was pretty confident this would solve the problem. Two days later, the car started stuttering again. I haven't gotten it to the scanner yet, but I'm guessing it will be coil #1 or #4 . My WAG is #1 , though it may be one of the new coils. However, something is ruining my car's coils and 2 mechanics haven't found out what it is.

Now, before I go directly to Nissan and get charged ungodly amounts of $ for just coming into the shop, has anyone had a similar issue?

BTW, I asked my usual mechanic to change the spark plugs, since he had already had to take the intake plenum out to get to the coil and the car is close to 70k miles. He went to buy them and called me to say each plug costs $20, since they are apparently iridium plugs. I then asked that he just change them if he thought it was necessary. He said they should be fine. Does anyone know about iridium plugs on the MR18? I mean, I trust this mechanic, but $80 for plugs on an entry level econobox sounds like a terrible thing for Nissan to do. I've always thought much higher of them.

Anyway, sorry for the long post. I appreciate any info.
 

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Welcome to the NVF
On a 2007 anything, stuff can really start to nickel and dime you. Stick with your trusted mechanic, you can't put a price on trust eh?
IMO switch around the known good coils to see if the symptoms move with it. Also be sure your coils are 100 per cent attached, sounds like mechanic already did though.
I still have original ignition coils at 248000km, but I had my iridium plugs swapped out at 200k. Mechanic said they looked okay to him.
So IMO, stick with your mechanic, he/she is treating you right
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks! To my trusted mechanic I shall stick. He scanned the car earlier today and it was coil #4 this time. I'm glad it's an inline 4 and not a V8. The mechanic said he knows a shop that has only been dealing with Nissans for several years now and actually does some of the work for the local Nissan dealer. He'll take the car to that shop directly in hopes that they will be able to shed some light on this problem without the factory price tag. Once the problem is found I'll post on it, just in case anyone else comes across a similar issue.
 

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You're welcome any time.
True about the inline four. When we bought our Altima, I purposely avoided the V6 cuz the transverse mounting means murder working on the rear side of the motor. I'm glad wife's new Charger is RWD, thus longitudinally mounted V6. Yes pls post results. Curious to know how many or often the coil packs pack it in, and price.
Edit...and if coil problems are limited to first year 2007 models. My 2008 still on original ignition coil packs, as mentioned above.
 

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I'm still on my originals as well. It's an '08.

Popping one after the other that way is worrisome, and usually isn't the way those things go. In my experience, I'd be looking at the wiring harness for shorts or exposed wires. Even if the individual wires are bundled and wrapped, I'd remove some of the covering to inspect the individual wire casings for splits and exposed sections.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OK, it's been a while and I'm almost afraid of saying this, but it seems as if the problem is solved. After a month at the mechanic's, much trouble shooting, much trouble, including having to reprogram the computer twice and reprogram the throttle body to the computer once, 2 different computer shops that couldn't find anything and an additional electromechanic that couldn't find anything wrong, the mechanic called me up to say "I'm gonna change the plugs and the remaining coil. If that doesn't work, I don't know what to tell you." Well, I must say I've been driving the car for 2 weeks since then without further issues.

The mechanic still doesn't know what to make of it. After changing the third coil, while still at the shop the car accelerated to a 2500 rpm idle. The computer shop fixed it and then the accelerator stopped responding after about a half hour of use. The computer shop fixed it again, this time it was the throttle body. Then it blew a fuse. The mechanic changed it and then the next day the transmission started shifting to top gear after launch. The second computer shop came in and fixed it. Then the car started misfiring again and the computer said it was the last coil. To make sure he didn't miss anything, he got the electromechanic to check the wiring for a second opinion. He said everything looked fine. It was at that point that he called me with the news and suggested swapping the plugs like I had thought of doing before and changing the remaining coil. This seems to have worked.

Either the plugs were fouled somehow and were causing the computer to go nuts (which I'd like it to be, for it means the problem is solved, though I doubt this) or, while fiddling with it, the electromechanic separated whatever cables were shorting out with each other and without knowing it temporarily solved the problem (which is the more likely scenario).

It could also be that the electromechanic found what the problem was and it turned out to be so simple that my mechanic won't admit to having missed it and wants to at least get paid for the last two coils he hadn't gotten paid for yet and used the changing the plugs deal to get some money back for having to have 2 computer shops reprogram the computer and the tb. meaning he never changed the plugs. I don't want to think this is what actually happened, but it is also a possibility.

Anyway, in the end (hopefully) it cost me 4 plugs and 4 coils...for now. If anyone runs across similar coil issues, I guess they should give the plug change a try. Again, it's unlikely that this is the problem, but it just may be.

I know it may have been of very little help, so please accept my apologies for the long post...again.
 

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Wow.. this was a shitshow. Something a competent tech could have fixed in one visit. During this whole operation, did any of the techs tell you it would be advisable to replace all 4 coils? Once one coil blows, the others are gonna. It's just good practice to replace all of them, saves time and money down the road. Proper diagnosis is hard to find. Plenty of parts replacers, but true mechanics are hard to find.
 

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I'll agree with that. Even dealers aren't very good at diagnostics. If the scanner doesn't tell them what to do, they generally don't have a clue.
 

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2013 Nissan versa. Would barely run, and would spit and sputter. Checked codes and found P0300 for random misfire, and P0420 for catalytic converter insufficient flow. Replaced cat, and all 4 spark plugs. Ran well until operating temp, and started sputtering again. Check engine light flashing. P0300, and P0304. Replaced #4 coil. Car ran well for about 10 minutes and then died. #4 coil had spot that melted near valve cover. Replaced coil and spark plug on #4. Car ran fine for about 10 minutes. After a short trip to grocery store, car sputtered and died. Same issue #4 coil. Removed and replaced #4 coil and spark plug again. Car ran ok but would sputter at times. Replaced remaining coils and spark plugs. Check fuel for contamination and found water in fuel. (Likely original culprit) Drained fuel and dried out tank. Refilled fuel and tested. Began to sputter and died after driving for about 30 minutes. #4 coil shorted again. Replaced #4 coil and drove again. Ran for about 20 minutes and died. P0300 and P0302. Removed intake and found #2 coil shorted. Each time vehicle dies coil fuse blows. Checked wiring and grounds, and no naked or loose wires found. Each time coils short, melts plastic on left side of coil near valve cover. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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2013 Nissan versa. Would barely run, and would spit and sputter. Checked codes and found P0300 for random misfire, and P0420 for catalytic converter insufficient flow. Replaced cat, and all 4 spark plugs. Ran well until operating temp, and started sputtering again. Check engine light flashing. P0300, and P0304. Replaced #4 coil. Car ran well for about 10 minutes and then died. #4 coil had spot that melted near valve cover. Replaced coil and spark plug on #4. Car ran fine for about 10 minutes. After a short trip to grocery store, car sputtered and died. Same issue #4 coil. Removed and replaced #4 coil and spark plug again. Car ran ok but would sputter at times. Replaced remaining coils and spark plugs. Check fuel for contamination and found water in fuel. (Likely original culprit) Drained fuel and dried out tank. Refilled fuel and tested. Began to sputter and died after driving for about 30 minutes. #4 coil shorted again. Replaced #4 coil and drove again. Ran for about 20 minutes and died. P0300 and P0302. Removed intake and found #2 coil shorted. Each time vehicle dies coil fuse blows. Checked wiring and grounds, and no naked or loose wires found. Each time coils short, melts plastic on left side of coil near valve cover. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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2013 Nissan versa. Would barely run, and would spit and sputter. Checked codes and found P0300 for random misfire, and P0420 for catalytic converter insufficient flow. Replaced cat, and all 4 spark plugs. Ran well until operating temp, and started sputtering again. Check engine light flashing. P0300, and P0304. Replaced #4 coil. Car ran well for about 10 minutes and then died. #4 coil had spot that melted near valve cover. Replaced coil and spark plug on #4. Car ran fine for about 10 minutes. After a short trip to grocery store, car sputtered and died. Same issue #4 coil. Removed and replaced #4 coil and spark plug again. Car ran ok but would sputter at times. Replaced remaining coils and spark plugs. Check fuel for contamination and found water in fuel. (Likely original culprit) Drained fuel and dried out tank. Refilled fuel and tested. Began to sputter and died after driving for about 30 minutes. #4 coil shorted again. Replaced #4 coil and drove again. Ran for about 20 minutes and died. P0300 and P0302. Removed intake and found #2 coil shorted. Each time vehicle dies coil fuse blows. Checked wiring and grounds, and no naked or loose wires found. Each time coils short, melts plastic on left side of coil near valve cover. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Did you ever figure out problem I’m having the same thing happening and it’s driving me crazy
 
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