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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings

I am changing the plugs and want to do a compression check. Its burning a lot and I just want to know where she is at. I pulled the fuel pump fuse and I have a button to hook to the starter to crank it. My car is a manual so I blocked the tires and tripple checked it was in neutral.

My compression check tool doesn't fit down the spark plug hole.

I managed to get my hose from leak down tester down in there and screwed in. However leak down doesn't have a shrader valve to hold the pressure in the gauge.

What type of compression gauge do you use and where did you get it? I am 30 minutes from a bigger town. The autozone loner is too big.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Ok harbor freight has one meant for coil packs and reaches down in there. I am getting a reading of:
Cyl 1: 140 lbs
Cyl 2: 150 lbs
Cyl 3: 30 lbs
Cyl 4: 40 lbs

Seems off. I'm curious how it even runs on those numbers
 

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So I found a LQK motor with 30k miles for $150! I normally do more research but I was so excited and didn't want to miss out. Going next week to get it. Are there any threads here for pulling the motor in and out? I am thinking of leaving the tranny in and lifting the motor out the top
 

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Ok we made a quick road trip and picked it up. I am surprised by how light it is. I have never had an aluminum block. Two strong guys could probably lift it. My dad and I aren't two strong guys so we rented a picker for an hour.

The spark plugs look original and what I would expect for 25k miles.

It has the original blue coolant in it.

The dickstip looks nice and clean.

I picked up tranny fluid for the manual, coolant, a thermostat, and I had sparkplugs and oil. I am $412 into it so far. I need a serpentine belt. I am debating on the water pump. It is $80. I pulled mine out and it looks flawless, which probably means nothing.

I am also looking for a pilot bearing. I am going to reuse the clutch but am reluctant to pull my old pilot bearing and reuse it. It is a stage 1 from Action Clutch. I will measure the thickness when I get it out and make sure there are no cracks.



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Ok, I am partway there. Basically, on the lower backside of the motor, there are two bell housing bolts facing the opposite direction. A ton of heat guards. A crank position sensor. And a little gremlin that stops you from getting to them. The proper procedure is to drop the subframe, but I don't have a lift. After this experience, I want one.

I have most of the bolts out, I thought. I supported the bottom of the motor on the pulley side with the stock jack and unbolted the motor mount. I hooked up the engine hoist and then could support it with that. I moved the jack to the transmission and was going to try and wiggle the engine out. But I missed some bolts. So I had to reattach the engine mount so I could jack it up again.

I am going to try getting some heat shields out of the way, but if I fail to separate them I am going to hate life. So I think I may just drain the tranny and pull the axles. And pull them both out.

Learning how difficult it is to replace the alternator, I may get a new one and do it while the engine is out.

I unbolted it and zip tied it up near the radiator. You have to bend some coolant lines take the bumper off to get it out.

I also learned the doner motor that was matched with an auto trans has a different flange for where the heater core hooks up. My manual car has one less pipe. So I have to switch those and get a gasket. The Nissan part number for that gasket is 11062-1KT0A. Any parts store should be able to cross-reference that number. I will post a picture of the flange.

So if you are reading this and about to do it, get a new water pump, alternator, tensioner pulley, and belt and replace all those. Get new coolant hoses (7 total) and spark plugs. And don't try to get here in again. I unbolted the AC pump and am trying to leave it in and not crack the lines. Fingers crossed.

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Not much traction here so I am posting on another thread. Follow here:

 
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