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find a performance tuning shop in your area. any import will do, but not a "import expert" general shop. those are generally a bunch of malarky. Look for a place like this:J-Tune Performance » Nissan and Infiniti Performance Specialists. Dyno Tuning. Everything For Your Motorsport Needs.
(I have no affiliation, nor have I ever worked with/for them)

Nissan/Infinity would obviously be best, but Mazda, Honda, whatever... hell even a European shop will work ok for this.

Tell them that your engine stalls with no load, but drives fine under load. the "no load" is important. Also obviously tell them you're getting a crank sensor code, but changing the sensor is getting you nowhere. These guys are experts at diagnostics; to properly build a highly tuned car, you have to be an expert at diagnostic work.


Now, this sounds like it may be a case of bad compression. If you bought the car used and the issue was present almost from day one, you wouldn't know it until you started to stall out or got your sensor code.

Piston slap is a relatively common failure on these, and results in lost compression as the cylinder walls wear away, allowing the piston to wobble, and piston rings to lose contact, which bleeds compression away. If the issue is minor to moderate, the worst impact will be at idle, under no load. it may have enough contact still so that once you get it under load its being fed enough A/F to mask the issue.

This you can check for yourself. Go and pick up a basic compression tester, then google online for the procedure. Doing the test cold is fine for this; All you're looking for is difference between the cylinders. Greater than a 10% drop signals an issue. For instance, if you get 150-150-150-80, then cylinder 4 either has bad rings, piston slap, or leaky valves. to rule out valves, pour a capful of oil into the cylinder, then quickly re-run the test. if it jumps back up, then the issue is valves, if it stays low, then its the piston or cylinder.
 

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i have to agree, parting it is going to be a lot of effort, for very little in return, or at least a lengthy timeframe to get the stuff sold..

you could get some cash for the 6MT (trans, shifter, mounts, cables), CV shafts, ECM/BCM, engine harness and ignition switch with keys.

I know there are folks looking to do MT swaps, and those are the parts they'd need to avoid a trip to the dealer to get the IMMO serviced.

beyond that it gets sketchy. maybe the A/C compressor and a couple other random goodies fetch a few bucks.
 
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