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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I did the first CVT fluid/filters change on my '16 Versa SV today at 029993 miles. The fluid was pretty dark in the pan but while it was draining in a stream I could still see a green cast to it and the fluid didn't smell burnt. I measured 120 oz. of fluid out but I sloshed a small amount out of the pan a couple times while moving it so I added an extra 2 oz. to make it up refilling with 122 oz. When I removed the cartridge filter it was pretty black but I didn't see any signs of metal contamination in the filter. When I pulled the pan off and replaced the pan filter the magnets in the pan were a little fuzzy but, nothing I'd consider abnormal. By the time I finished my back was hurting so bad it was making me sick (chronic back pain) so the left inner fender is still hanging loose and the car is still on jack stands. Hopefully tomorrow afternoon I can start it for the first time check for leaks around the cartridge filter housing to be sure the o-ring sealed good, run it through the gears, stabilize the inner fender, get it off the jack stands and take it for a test drive. Worst part of the job was removing the battery tray to have some work room and getting the filler plug out. Figuring out how to get the filler plug out probably took at least a half hour before I finally got it to release. I'd bought 10 quarts of Nissan NS-3 about a year ago hoping it would be enough for 3 changes but if the same amount drains on the next two changes I'll have buy a couple more quarts on the third drain/fill. My plans are to change again at 60K, then between 90 and 100K do about 3 drain/fills to get it cleaned up again.
 

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A couple of tips to make it easier in the future. For the cap on the tube, bring a prybar or something long enough to reach the cap from under the car and blast the cap off from the bottom. It will break the little clip off so you don't have to fight with it again and will pop the cap right off. I wack a prybar with a hammer to accomplish this. There's an o ring that still keeps it on plenty snug.

To add fluid, you can leave the battery tray on and get two funnels. One small one that you can fit down to the tube and a long one that will reach that funnel. So you'll be doing fluid in the long one that will be going into the small funnel, that's in the tube.

If possible with your budget, it's best to do the drain and fill twice in a row like it says in the service manual, since hardly anything comes out compared to what stays in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
A couple of tips to make it easier in the future. For the cap on the tube, bring a prybar or something long enough to reach the cap from under the car and blast the cap off from the bottom. It will break the little clip off so you don't have to fight with it again and will pop the cap right off. I wack a prybar with a hammer to accomplish this. There's an o ring that still keeps it on plenty snug.

To add fluid, you can leave the battery tray on and get two funnels. One small one that you can fit down to the tube and a long one that will reach that funnel. So you'll be doing fluid in the long one that will be going into the small funnel, that's in the tube.

If possible with your budget, it's best to do the drain and fill twice in a row like it says in the service manual, since hardly anything comes out compared to what stays in there.
After seeing there was an o-ring on the cap I put it back on and turned it so it wouldn't lock back down. I might could have got by without removing the battery tray but when I started I couldn't see where the filler cap was located and thought it might be underneath the battery tray. I've got one of the old metal transmission funnels with the long flexible spouts that were available years ago but didn't use it this time since I'd already removed the battery tray. Since I know where the fill tube is now next time maybe I can just move the coolant overflow bottle out of the way, remove the cap and use the transmission funnel to get the same results. I just liked about 6 oz. getting 4 qts. of old fluid out so I figure I got about 1/2 of the old fluid. Years ago I had a '76 Chrysler, it had a drain plug in the torque converter so when doing a fluid/filter change not only did I remove the pan but also drained the torque converter and replaced all the fluid.
 
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