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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone my name is Ayessa and I live in Stockton, CA. I purchased my 2013 Nissan Versa SV from Hertz Car Sales in Hayward, CA. I needed a reliable commuter car that got great gas mileage while also being a slightly family style car. I purchased (and am still paying on) this car back in June of 2015. The car had 45,000 miles on it. Now at 95,000 miles my CVT transmission is going out. I took it to Nissan on January 30, 2016 to have the CVT reprogrammed because there's a recall for it. After that my car started to mess up. I lose horse power, it makes like clicking noises, and my transmission is slipping. I took it to an auto repair shop a few days ago and they advised me that nothing is wrong with the power train on the car but the CVT is going out and because it's a special transmission that they don't make parts for that my whole transmission would need to be replaced which is $3000+. I called Nissan of Stockton because I had no problems with my car until they did the reprogram and was advised to call the California consumer affairs departments. I called them and they advised me I would have to have my car checked out by a Nissan certified shop before they can do anything and that they don't know if they will be able to do anything because I am outside of warranty. I don't understand why they wouldn't when I had no problems with my car until the reprogramming. Anyway, so I called Stockton Nissan and they told me I would have to pay $120 for a diagnostic after which I have to call the consumer affairs department back to let them know what happened. Reading others with the same problem and being outside of warranty it seems that Nissan isn't willing to help and has you pay out of pocket for things they mess up. I have my appointment to take my car in on Monday to the Tracy Nissan since I don't trust the Stockton Nissan and from there I will know further. From reading others and other Nissan cars with the CVT problem and seeing there was a class action before on the same transmission but in the Pathfinders I feel there should be a new class action to come out for the newer cars as well. Nissan extended their CVT warranty to 120k miles on the 2000-2010 I believe but nothing after which is unfair because these transmissions seem to keep messing up. Is anyone else having this same problem?
 

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Hi.

The CVT issue was a Technical Service bulletin not a recall. Main difference is a TSB less severe and you pay if your car is out of warranty.

It looks like your TSB was filed as NHTSA No.: NTB-15-069 Component(s): ELECTRICAL SYSTEM NHTSA ID Number: 10058388

See under "Manufacturer Communication No" Go here and input car info: Keeping You Safe | Safercar | National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA)

I would call Nissan directly.
Write down the customer service reps name, date, time & number you called and where your call was transferred to if it is.
Tell rep what happened when you took your car in for the CVT TCM reprogramming. Tell them you would like the reprogramming re-done at another Nissan dealer for free. Location convenient to you.
If the rep says no, ask for a supervisor. Prepare for a stall. It looks bad on the rep if they can't blow you off so they'll try their best. Insist.
If the supervisor is "busy" (they usually are, get supe's name and say you want them to call you back today. Also ask for an e-mail address.
If no one calls you back that day send email. In email say you called, no one called back and ask for the free re-programming again. If no auto response to your email giving a reply by date, give it 24 hrs. If no email write a letter.
If nothing I'd contact your local paper if they have a consumer advocate or complaints columnist. The one that works in my city's main newspaper gets stuff moving in 24hrs.

It's a pain I know, but without names dates and times you'll be sunk. Nissan, like most companies hate bad press.

BTW, I recently bought a bicycle for 20% off just because I wrote 1 email. The store had a bike on sale and I went to buy it. I got the old, we can't find it, it was an inventory error. So sad, too bad. That was the department manager so I got his managers email, sent him one and the next day he replied saying go pick out a comparable bike for the sale price.

Nissanusa.com contact info
Nissan Consumer Affairs P.O. Box 685003 Franklin, TN 37068-5003
Phone: (800) NISSAN-1 (or 800-647-7261)
Monday through Friday: 7:00 AM to 10:00 PM CST
Saturday: 7:00 AM to 5:00 PM CST
 

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I am having the same issue with my 2012 Nissan Versa - 65,000 miles. how did your problem turn out? I am being told I need an entirely new transmission when the issue only occurred after the reprogramming.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I am having the same issue with my 2012 Nissan Versa - 65,000 miles. how did your problem turn out? I am being told I need an entirely new transmission when the issue only occurred after the reprogramming.
So, I had my transmission replaced and now my car won't run. I'm being told it's either my flywheel or torque converter. The shop that "fixed" my transmission did a faulty job and I drove my car about a week and a half and now it isn't running. I have a warranty on the transmission but because the parts that could be the problem are in between the engine and tranny the guys are being shady. So I have a whole new mess to deal with. =( How is yours going?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
For anyone interested, below is a link to the NTB-15-069 recall bulletin in its entirety. (Straight from the Dept of Transportation website) It took me a LONG time to find what was actually being done to the CVT Transmission when they said "reprogram" and I hope to save you all that time.

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/UCM508067/SB-10058388-9756.pdf
Thank you. Nissan already said it wasn't on them for my tranny messing up so they aren't going to help. I went ahead and tried to have the tranny replaced but ended up with a whole new world of problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi.

The CVT issue was a Technical Service bulletin not a recall. Main difference is a TSB less severe and you pay if your car is out of warranty.

It looks like your TSB was filed as NHTSA No.: NTB-15-069 Component(s): ELECTRICAL SYSTEM NHTSA ID Number: 10058388

See under "Manufacturer Communication No" Go here and input car info: Keeping You Safe | Safercar | National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA)

I would call Nissan directly.
Write down the customer service reps name, date, time & number you called and where your call was transferred to if it is.
Tell rep what happened when you took your car in for the CVT TCM reprogramming. Tell them you would like the reprogramming re-done at another Nissan dealer for free. Location convenient to you.
If the rep says no, ask for a supervisor. Prepare for a stall. It looks bad on the rep if they can't blow you off so they'll try their best. Insist.
If the supervisor is "busy" (they usually are, get supe's name and say you want them to call you back today. Also ask for an e-mail address.
If no one calls you back that day send email. In email say you called, no one called back and ask for the free re-programming again. If no auto response to your email giving a reply by date, give it 24 hrs. If no email write a letter.
If nothing I'd contact your local paper if they have a consumer advocate or complaints columnist. The one that works in my city's main newspaper gets stuff moving in 24hrs.

It's a pain I know, but without names dates and times you'll be sunk. Nissan, like most companies hate bad press.

BTW, I recently bought a bicycle for 20% off just because I wrote 1 email. The store had a bike on sale and I went to buy it. I got the old, we can't find it, it was an inventory error. So sad, too bad. That was the department manager so I got his managers email, sent him one and the next day he replied saying go pick out a comparable bike for the sale price.

Nissanusa.com contact info
Nissan Consumer Affairs P.O. Box 685003 Franklin, TN 37068-5003
Phone: (800) NISSAN-1 (or 800-647-7261)
Monday through Friday: 7:00 AM to 10:00 PM CST
Saturday: 7:00 AM to 5:00 PM CST
Thank you for that. I went ahead and had my tranny replaced but am now dealing with more than I wanted to.

I spoke to Nissan and asked for the supervisor and got told I couldn't have their name or anything. I got tired of dealing with them and them giving me the run around.
 

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Just had the Valve Body in the CVT replaced on my 2014 Note. I had an intermittent shutter around 28mph, under load. Nissan replaced the valve body under warrant as 55K miles. Under the 60K mile power train warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just had the Valve Body in the CVT replaced on my 2014 Note. I had an intermittent shutter around 28mph, under load. Nissan replaced the valve body under warrant as 55K miles. Under the 60K mile power train warranty.
That's awesome. When my transmission went out I was no longer under warranty which sucks because they extended the tranny warranty for the older cars (I believe 1998-2011) but not for the newer ones with the same tranny.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Welcome, wow what an ordeal you've been through. I hope everything works out for you in the end. Your in the right place for help, good luck .Q
Thank you so much. Hopefully I can finally get my car up and running or get a new car which, sorry to say, won't be a Nissan.
 

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2014 Versa SV

Dealership just confirmed our CVT is shot. 45,000 miles. They are replacing it under warranty. We certainly won't be purchasing any vehicle with a CVT again.

I did just acquire a 2012 Nissan Leaf that I really love, despite the limited range. I suspect a year from now I'll be in the shop with the Leaf to have the battery replaced under warranty as it has been having a rapid decline. But if I get the battery replaced and it lasts me 5 years, I'll be happy.
 

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<Leaf Lion batteries>

Somewhere I read they run around $500/kwHr. Not sure what actual replacement total runs.
Usually $6,500 total, which is more than what I paid for the Leaf. If I can't get a replacement under warranty, I will continue to use it as my commuting vehicle as there is a charger near my work, so as long as it can drive 25 miles on a charge, I'm good.
 

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You'll have to keep everyone posted here on how long the Leaf batteries last. In this area, the dealer only has 1 tech trained to work on the Leafs. Expensive and dangerous (to work on).
 

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You'll have to keep everyone posted here on how long the Leaf batteries last. In this area, the dealer only has 1 tech trained to work on the Leafs. Expensive and dangerous (to work on).
If you're interested, check out mynissanleaf.com as that's where a lot of Leaf owners post about battery degradation and such.
 

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For those Nissan owners who are experiencing issues with their CVTs (Controlled Variable Transmission) I have a suggestion, especially those that have no dipstick.

Our 2012 Versa SL (82k miles) was diagnosed with a bad transmission according to the Dealership. They were very observant, given the fact that we had it towed there because it would either go into fail-safe or would stay in low gear. A quick google search will show that this is a common problem. Bad transmission just barely outside of warranty. (67k miles is the average). Oh, and the dealership will try and charge you around $150 to "diagnose".

We can't afford to pay $4000 for a new one when the car is worth less than that.

**IF your vehicle is outside warranty** and is equipped with the JF011E CVT or similar "sealed" transmissions, This might be worth a try, what I did yesterday FIRST before you fork over $4k. Change the fluid out.

The only way to do so is pumping up thru the drain plug (I'm sure there is another way perhaps thru a speed sensor hole, but this has easier access. I have scoured for a couple months methods to change the fluid yourself without specialty tools but there are only questions with no answers. Seems no one has tried.

Barely any tools are needed. So here I will show you what to use to properly follow the shop manuals instructions regarding a fluid change but without "necessary" tools.

First picture is the proper way to complete the task.
You'll need to locate the breather hose on top of the transmission between master cylinder and motor. Somewhat hard to notice. Pull the hose off.

Under the nozzletip of The $5 hand pump sprayer at Walmart contains a hole that fits snugly inside the breather hose.

To check the transmission fluid temp, a Bluetooth obd2 adapter does it. This thing has paid for itself time and time again. This is the one I have off amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00T5G53ZM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1492695231&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=obd2+bluetooth+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=51MK08F5NeL&ref=plSrch and you simply download a free obd2 app off google play.

Once you have drained the fluid per instruction, take the overflow tube that was threaded into the drain hole, turn it around, and thread it back in upside down.

Attach the breather hose to the overflow tube. Pump while pressing the Wand handle as you do. It is very important to find what the fluid capacity is for your vehicle. Also the SPECIFIC fluid type.

After filling as instructed in the manual, you have to quickly put both the overflow tube and the drain bolt back, because it will flow out. That's why I filled a little over capacity. I lost a pint or two in the process, but at least my arm has a nice glossy shine to it now.

Took it for a 10 minute test drive up and down the hills where we live, and it seems to "shift" fine. Only one slight belt slip on the first hill.
Over the next couple of days I'll take it out for longer.

***I am NOT certified in any capacity to give instructions like this, I'm sharing what I tried. We are outside of warranty so I didn't mind experimenting. ***

Too soon to tell, but it seems that a simple fluid change (plus it was about 1.5 quarts low) may have solved the issue. If the fluid is like mud, sensors can't work properly.

Might not fix it, but it doesn't slip or shut off When I'm at a stoplight like it was.

Moral of the post is that just because the ONLY supplier of new parts tells you you need a new transmission, doesn't mean you need one.

Please don't overly critique my techniques please haha. I'm not a well seasoned mechanic. But I thoroughly do research before trying anything I haven't done before.

BIG shout out to my resourceful wife for finding the fluid on sale! ????

This my first ever forum post, so I can't seem to upload pics... but here is a link that I used for the process with their special tools I used as a reference. Once I figure out how to post pics of my pump, I'll do so.
 

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Ordeal? Be glad you don't have a Ford with the DCT transmission, many people on 3rd or 4th trans and still having major issues with them even on new '17 cars after they came out in '12. Endless streams of failures there. The same people who could not make a McDonald's 1/4 pounder 4 times the exact same way every time have now graduated from college with 'engineering degrees', and it sorely shows in automotive design now.

Take the basic idea of a CVT trans, one drive takes the place of all those old school gears, unfortunately, when one of those old school gears broke often the ones left were how you got home. You won't be doing that on a CVT type likely.

They make them because you lose half the parts in a typical ATX if not more, then all you have to do is to bullsh-t the public into thinking they are 'better'. Cheaper and because they are 'magic stuff' you can charge more for them.


To Chad directly above.............if the trans was truly 1.5 quarts low then you simply ran out of fluid, virtually any ATX out there will show effects of slipping that low on fluid and common at just missing .5 qt. BTDT on more than one.

New fluid alone pretty much NEVER brings an ATX back that was slipping and it often makes them slip worse for other reasons.

Not critiquing, just sayin' after years of rebuilding my own and apparently with zero formal training I can do it better than the shops that get paid to, I've never had one that didn't last for at least 10 more years after I worked on it.

Sealed trans, that's pretty funny, or it would be, if it wasn't so sad. I worked on CVT drives in the printing industry, they are simplest of the simple to understand but the OEMs always got to make that stuff 'magical' so us working stiffs cannot understand it..........................LOL.
 
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