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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Greetings,

I have a 2007 Versa SL. Within the last few months the dashboard lights have begun blinking furiously.

I will be driving along and all of a sudden all my gauges will go to zero and start to twitch and everything that has the ability to light up (tire sensor, airbag, hot and cold temp lights, parking break light, odometer backlight, speedometer backlight) will blink on and off really fast.
Funny thing is, if I push in the odometer trip reset knob really hard, it all stops blinking, but as soon as I let go, they all start blinking again.

What has gotten worse is that after I turn the car off, the gauges (fuel, speedo, RPMS) twitch, causing battery drain, so I have to disconnect the negative battery cable whenever I am done driving for the day.

Does anyone know what needs replacing or fixing for this issue? I assume there is a contact behind the dash, but I am not a mechanic by any stretch, but I know a few people who tinker, so if they know the name of what to fix, then we can at least try ourselves.

Thanks!

-Colin
 

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if you push the the reset knobs and you see some changes it might just be that the cluster panel went bad. It happens.

You can easily find it on eBay, but you must make sure it's your part number, with all your transmission options (CVT etc). or you can try a junkyard and pull it yourself.
Swapping that part is not very hard to do...
Greetings,

I have a 2007 Versa SL. Within the last few months the dashboard lights have begun blinking furiously.

I will be driving along and all of a sudden all my gauges will go to zero and start to twitch and everything that has the ability to light up (tire sensor, airbag, hot and cold temp lights, parking break light, odometer backlight, speedometer backlight) will blink on and off really fast.
Funny thing is, if I push in the odometer trip reset knob really hard, it all stops blinking, but as soon as I let go, they all start blinking again.

What has gotten worse is that after I turn the car off, the gauges (fuel, speedo, RPMS) twitch, causing battery drain, so I have to disconnect the negative battery cable whenever I am done driving for the day.

Does anyone know what needs replacing or fixing for this issue? I assume there is a contact behind the dash, but I am not a mechanic by any stretch, but I know a few people who tinker, so if they know the name of what to fix, then we can at least try ourselves.

Thanks!

-Colin
 

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2007 Nissan Versa SL Hatchback
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
if you push the the reset knobs and you see some changes it might just be that the cluster panel went bad. It happens.

You can easily find it on eBay, but you must make sure it's your part number, with all your transmission options (CVT etc). or you can try a junkyard and pull it yourself.
Swapping that part is not very hard to do...
Thanks for the quick reply! We have a pull apart here in town. I may check that out.
 

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Thanks for the quick reply! We have a pull apart here in town. I may check that out.
in your case, I guess you have a CVT transmission, it should be either 24810-El81a (if you have abs) or 24810-El81b (if you don't have it).
 

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It does sound like a cluster issue. 2 VERY IMPORTANT things:

1) The trans has to match EXACTLY!!
2) If you ever plan on selling the car, you will have to get the milage adjusted for your current car.

To keep the same backlighting, use 2007-2009
To have white/orange backlighting, use 2010-2012(hatch)
Expect to pay about $25-$50 on the cluster.
 

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Funny thing is, if I push in the odometer trip reset knob really hard, it all stops blinking, but as soon as I let go, they all start blinking again.
Definitely seems like a case of a bad connection somewhere in the cluster. When you take it apart, take a magnified lens and search for cracks in the printed boards, cold solderings (Adafruit Guide To Excellent Soldering), and other bad connections.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
in your case, I guess you have a CVT transmission, it should be either 24810-El81a (if you have abs) or 24810-El81b (if you don't have it).
I am not sure if I have a CVT transmission. How can I be sure? I will look to see if I have the original purchase paperwork, if that says.
My VIN is: 3N1BC13E37L369626 if that helps.

Thanks!
 

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Look next to the shift lever
A 4 speed auto will have PRND21
A CVT will have PRNDL
 

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I am not sure if I have a CVT transmission. How can I be sure? I will look to see if I have the original purchase paperwork, if that says.
My VIN is: 3N1BC13E37L369626 if that helps.

Thanks!
yes, you have a CVT.

Vin confirms it but also I don't recall any SL trim with an AT. Only MT.

I think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
yes, you have a CVT.

Vin confirms it but also I don't recall any SL trim with an AT. Only MT.

I think.
So, I found I have an additional issue that seems to correspond with the flickering lights that leads me to believe there is a deeper issue and that the dash light issue may only be a symptom of a bigger issue.
I have a hill right outside my neighborhood, that we always have to climb to get out. A couple mornings ago when I was driving my Versa and leaving the neighborhood, as I was giving it gas to get up the hill, the engine would rev/cut out/rev/cut out/rev/cut out almost in time with the flickering lights.
I was able to get up the hill and coming down the other side, I was fine, but only when I would give it enough gas to accelerate, would it attempt to cut out. If I think about it, giving a little gas was okay, but pushing down maybe a quarter of the way or more, would cause it to hesitate/cut out. (I'm not the best at describing car issues).
Then, I noticed, when the dash lights stopped flickering, for whatever reason, and I tested by gunning the engine, it did NOT cut out. It seemed to run fine. But then the flickering lights came back, I gunned it, and it cut out. It didn't die. It just had the feeling as if I was hammering the gas and letting off over and over.

Do you think it could be a bad sensor somewhere? If so, which one? :)

Hope this makes sense. Any suggestions you have would be awesome!!
 

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behavior like that may be symptom of an electrical issue.
I'm not sure if the ECM is to blame, maybe it's faulty somewhere....it's hard to tell.
Again, like in similar situations, you should visit a autoparts store and have them check for codes. If there is something more specific that should tell you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
behavior like that may be symptom of an electrical issue.
I'm not sure if the ECM is to blame, maybe it's faulty somewhere....it's hard to tell.
Again, like in similar situations, you should visit a autoparts store and have them check for codes. If there is something more specific that should tell you.
Thanks! I think I will go ahead and do that.
Thanks for all your help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ok great!
Check to make sure your power and grounds are clean and tight.
Thanks, we actually replaced the positive cable and reinforced the negative and make sure it was clean. I have to unplug the negative while it sits so that my battery doesn't drain and reattach before I go. I let it idle a bit before I leave though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
just report any codes you get, somebody here should be able to help you.
Well, darn. Looks like the auto parts stores around me only read the codes if the Check Engine light is on. Only scans for those codes. I have a friend with a FIXD device that might be able to help. Will check with him.
 

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Those scanners are only going to look at the ecm. If you can on top of the dash does it flicker? It could just be the connector in the back of the cluster needs some help. I'd take the cluster out and wiggle the connector to see if it does it. The meter itself is a module and needs to have good power and ground to it. An all module scan would be helpful here. I have deep hatred for that Fixd tool and their ridiculous marketing.

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I borrowed a friend's thingamajig code reader. I think it is BlueDriver and it doesn't show any codes. I ran it while the issue was happening and it didn't find anything.
It has the ability to scan for all system codes.

18210


Anyways, I am thinking of taking it to a local mechanic I can trust, and just have them diagnose the issue and get my stepdad to help fix whatever it is.
The part that bugs me is that when the flickering is happening and I try and gun it with the gas, it revs/unrevs/revs/unrevs. Hard to explain, but it feels the same as if you floor it, let off, floor it, let off.

I appreciate you all in all your help and suggestions.
 

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The tool in the pic only communicates with the ecm. You may need to talk with the meter here and those tools start around $300.

That reving you described, is that while driving or in park?

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